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I have a rebuild coming up soon as I get the running gear all done and thinking about stroking my '81. What would be involved in the stroking part? New Crank, rods and pistons....anything else?
I should know this, but have never actually done one.
Thanks
You are going for 383 ci? I know about the big blocks, but you can find all sorts of articles on the internet for a 383.
In hopes that this background will help you choose what to do, for my 454 going to a 489, I would need a new crank (stroke from 4.000" to 4.250"), new pistons and maybe new rods. This is what may help you - in the BB world some folks will reuse their old rods and use new pistons that go with the increased stroke and stock rods. Other folks want to use rods that are proportionally longer to accomodate the stroke increase (0.250" in my case). Such longer rods definitely require matching pistons as the pin heights are different for the pistons depending on which rods you use. I am not sure, but when you do a web search (even of this forum for topics) you may find a similar set of opinions for the small block 350 to 383 stroke job. BTW, I am convinced by the folks who call for the longer rods and I will go that way when I rebuild my motor.
Hmm, interesting stuff. I currently have a SB350 so I guess I would be going for 383. Anything magick about that number?
So if your extra stroke is .25" that would be .125" at each end, so you would need pistons .125" shorter to keep them inside the bores correct? Original heads would produce higher CR?
Anyone got recomendation for head package for 383?
I am in the process of building my 383 right now. I just finished clearancing the block. It took me 6 hours to do it right. I have plenty of clearance for the rods now. I went with a forged Eagle 4340 crank and forged Scat rods with 7/16 rod bolts good for 700 HP. The pistons are SRP forged that with my 68cc heads will give me 10.67 to 1 compression ratio. I am using my 190 AFR heads and a big solid flat tappet cam. Nothing magical about it just takes a little work to make sure you have proper clearance for everything rotating around inside the block. This should be a pretty bullet proof lower end. I am hoping to make around 500 HP and 500 ft/lb torque.
If you do a 383 - You'll most likely need an externally balanced flywheel or flexplate. I found out the hard way. SBC 400 cranks used in 383's are externally balanced
If you build it right it will produce a good HP and torque
I was just saying if you use your current set up and stroke it there won't be a major improvement in horsepower but mostly torque. And motor built correcty will do what you said.
If you do a 383 - You'll most likely need an externally balanced flywheel or flexplate. I found out the hard way. SBC 400 cranks used in 383's are externally balanced
If you get an aftermarket crank get it internally balanced. Most good aftermarket cranks are internally balanced.
Are those real numbers or Desk top Dyno numbers. I never had much success racing a computer. They are just numbers based on calculations. There is wayyy to much else invloved to put any facts behind those numbers. I have seen a 383 make as little as 400 ft/lbs and as much as 600 ft/lbs. Its all in the heads and cam and induction system.
I am looking to get a good streetable engine, is the CR of10.67 a bit high? Will it run ok on pump gas? I am planning on keeping the stock electrinics and doin a bit of work to the carb(mainly change the secondary needles)
I am looking to get a good streetable engine, is the CR of10.67 a bit high? Will it run ok on pump gas? I am planning on keeping the stock electrinics and doin a bit of work to the carb(mainly change the secondary needles)
I have aluminum heads and a big solid cam so the compression will be no problem. A 9.5 or 9 to 1 is better for iron heads and a mild hyd cam. It should produce good torque and good power.
I am in the process of building my 383 right now. I just finished clearancing the block. It took me 6 hours to do it right. I have plenty of clearance for the rods now. I went with a forged Eagle 4340 crank and forged Scat rods with 7/16 rod bolts good for 700 HP. The pistons are SRP forged that with my 68cc heads will give me 10.67 to 1 compression ratio. I am using my 190 AFR heads and a big solid flat tappet cam. Nothing magical about it just takes a little work to make sure you have proper clearance for everything rotating around inside the block. This should be a pretty bullet proof lower end. I am hoping to make around 500 HP and 500 ft/lb torque.
Are those real numbers or Desk top Dyno numbers. I never had much success racing a computer. They are just numbers based on calculations. There is wayyy to much else invloved to put any facts behind those numbers. I have seen a 383 make as little as 400 ft/lbs and as much as 600 ft/lbs. Its all in the heads and cam and induction system.
Gordom I think the kid is right ,take two engines built the same way, or three, 327, 350, 383, all 4" bores (4.030" - 383) and the main difference will be torque. The extra torque is from the increased lever arm induced by the longer stroke. Horsepower is a unit used to measure work and is a function of torque. What wins races has more to do with the area under the curve then peak No.s.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Yes it is true, if all you do is increase the stroke the HP stays pretty much the same, torque goes up.
That being said I have seen a few articles about 383's claiming over 500HP with AFR 190 heads, one of them with 9.5:1 CR. Kinda makes me wonder why I had to go to 11:1CR with 219cc racing heads and a big solid roller cam to make over 500HP when you can do it with less cubes, less cam, less .....you get the idea.
I am rather skeptical of some the claims I see as if 500/500 was nothing special anymore and you just order up some street heads and cam from Jegs and your there. I would love to see a dyno printout for that motor you are building Gordonm, or put it on an chassis dyno, anything over 400 at the rear wheels gets you 500 at the crank, I hope you make it, that is going to be a wicked motor
Yes it is true, if all you do is increase the stroke the HP stays pretty much the same, torque goes up.
That being said I have seen a few articles about 383's claiming over 500HP with AFR 190 heads, one of them with 9.5:1 CR. Kinda makes me wonder why I had to go to 11:1CR with 219cc racing heads and a big solid roller cam to make over 500HP when you can do it with less cubes, less cam, less .....you get the idea.
I am rather skeptical of some the claims I see as if 500/500 was nothing special anymore and you just order up some street heads and cam from Jegs and your there. I would love to see a dyno printout for that motor you are building Gordonm, or put it on an chassis dyno, anything over 400 at the rear wheels gets you 500 at the crank, I hope you make it, that is going to be a wicked motor
I agree a lot of the "claims" of 500 HP are pretty easy so they say. If I get to 500 HP I will be thrilled. I would like to get it dynoed as I think a lot of people leave a lot of HP out due to it not being tuned very well. A good dyno shop with good personel will gain you quite a bit of HP. No I don't think you can just buy the HP at Jegs or Summit. It takes a lot of work and tuning to get to 500 HP. Looking at your combo it is not a whole lot different then mine. Yea you have a roller cam and 20 more CI than me and you are at 546 HP. Why is it that you think I will not make 500 HP.
the increase in torque alone is only true if you ONLY stroke the engine, and do no supporting modifications such as heads and cam. this is because the existing heads, cam, intake, carb, etc will run out of flow at a lower RPM thanks to the 30 extra cubes. this is why you see a much steeper dropoff of the torque curve in the dyno sheets posted above. while it is true that you could *just* throw in a stroker crank and pistons and have an increase in torque, such a modification isnt really worth it without things to let it breathe at higher RPM. increasing breath up top increases high-rpm torque, and we all know that means more hp.
so no, swapping to a 383 does not only produce an increase in peak torque with minimal change in peak hp, unless you ONLY stroke the engine and leave the rest alone.
Yes it is true, if all you do is increase the stroke the HP stays pretty much the same, torque goes up.
That being said I have seen a few articles about 383's claiming over 500HP with AFR 190 heads, one of them with 9.5:1 CR. Kinda makes me wonder why I had to go to 11:1CR with 219cc racing heads and a big solid roller cam to make over 500HP when you can do it with less cubes, less cam, less .....you get the idea.
I am rather skeptical of some the claims I see as if 500/500 was nothing special anymore and you just order up some street heads and cam from Jegs and your there. I would love to see a dyno printout for that motor you are building Gordonm, or put it on an chassis dyno, anything over 400 at the rear wheels gets you 500 at the crank, I hope you make it, that is going to be a wicked motor
i've been seriously wondering about that setup as well...seems like nobody else is cracking 420 with 9.5:1....afr heads are good but i'm not sure they're that good.