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New Brake Problem

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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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Default New Brake Problem

Ok, I replaced the MC, Rebuilt all calipers and now when I'm trying to bleed the system I do not get any brake fluid to the RH Rear caliper. I even disconnected the brake line and I had no fluid,

I am using a presure bleed does anyone know what to pump the bleeder system up to?

Any suggestion on why I have no fluid at the RH rear caliper.
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Old Feb 27, 2006 | 11:32 PM
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Probably a clogged or swollen shut rubber brake hose. Good time to replace them all. 20psi at the pressure bleeder should be plenty.
Mike
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 12:06 AM
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Thanks, thats what I did was 20psi.

I was afraid someone would suggest replace all lines.

Does the front to rear main line need to run inside the frame or can I run it along side the frame?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 01:31 AM
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Disconnect the rubber hose completely...see if your getting fluid to the hose...
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Muddywaters
Disconnect the rubber hose completely...see if your getting fluid to the hose...

It's prob the rubber hose swollen....much easier then the whole line...
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 07:12 AM
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I assume you replaced the old bleeder screws with new. Did you bleed the MC first?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Yes, to both questions,

New bleeder screws all around.

I did bench bleed the new MC. I bleed for 2 days, pumped the first day alot, then left it over night and pumped again the next. The only thing is when I installed onto car I had to disconnect the bleeder hose from MC to hook up the brake lines could I have messed up MC and will need to bench bleed the MC again?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 10:27 AM
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Nope, you're ok with the MC bleed procedure. No need to bleed it.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by kodaclr

I was afraid someone would suggest replace all lines.

Does the front to rear main line need to run inside the frame or can I run it along side the frame?
No need to replace the steel lines, just the 4 rubber hoses would be a good idea.
Mike
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 11:26 AM
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Thats where I'm going to start, I noticed in the rear they are rusted to the blocks, I am afraid that I will damage the blocks then have to replace steel lines then the next, then the next and before you know it I'm back to the MC.

Does anyone know if I have to go through the frame for the main front to back line or can I run it along side the frame?
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 04:52 PM
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I think you have a '69. The brake lines do not go inside the frame but along it. I replaced all of my brake lines on my '68 with the body on the car, not the easiest thing to do, but it can be done. If the lines are rusted to the distribution blocks then you will want to spray with Pb Blaster or some other rust penetrant (and let it set for at least a full day) so you don't round off the flare nuts. Also, you should utilize a good set of flare nut (5 sided) wrenches for this job. I use Craftsman but I know Snap-On is even better and will grip the nut without rounding it off. Forget about using inexpensive flare nut wrenches from Wal-Mart or made in China stuff, etc., all you will get is rounded off nuts on your brake lines. Ask me how I know. Good luck.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:21 PM
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Ya I do have a 69,

I just came in from working on car. I left the bleeder screws loose on the rear right over night, I figure try gravity bleed, I got some fluid back there but not much. I think its the rubber hose there it looks bad and is soft compared to other, so this is where I am going to start.

I spayed pb blaster on it for the last 3 days.

And You were right the line does run down the outside of the frame. It does't look to bad if I have to replace It looks like I will be able to.

I had a better night tonight.
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