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You might need to rotate the engine to another position to get oil moving around OK.
I'd just use any good basic 10/30 to start it with. You want it to move quickly to all places and you won't be putting any load on it. The initial start up oil is going to be drained quickly anyway.
Might need to try another store...VR1 can be had in several weights. Or have them order you some for after the intial startup.
Make sure you vary the engine speed during breakin. Don't just set it to a high idle and walk away. Many things like the cam and wristpins and cyl walls are lubed by splash, so you need to vary RPM to throw oil to different places. Often this mistake is the root cause of cam breakin failures.
You might need to rotate the engine to another position to get oil moving around OK.JIM
WHILE drill-primer is spinning, have someone "manually" pull motor through at least 2 full revs ... the oil holes in crank & block are "clocked" ... crank gets oil first ... then, it moves into cam & lifters, lifters are also "clocked" in their bores, then oil moves up lifters etc.
What type of pre luber are you using. Does it have a bottom piece to it. You will have trouble pressurizing the upper end without this there. When the dist is in it "plugs" this parts and the oil gets up to the top end. I just ran mine the other day with the preluber and it took a good couple of minutes to get it flowing through the pushrods. I do have 20 50 VR1 in mine for break in.
What type of pre luber are you using. Does it have a bottom piece to it. You will have trouble pressurizing the upper end without this there. When the dist is in it "plugs" this parts and the oil gets up to the top end. I just ran mine the other day with the preluber and it took a good couple of minutes to get it flowing through the pushrods. I do have 20 50 VR1 in mine for break in.
its one of the autozone units. It has the alum deal on it.
Would use some Shell Rotella oil for diesels when breaking in new motor. Has a lot more zinc in it then conventional oils do now to help oil cling to surfaces when engine is being broken in. Add the EOS also for more protection. As posted earlier have someone turn the crank over a couple of revolutions while primeing the oil system to make sure oil gets to all the galleries before you start the motor, houstonvett
im so close to cranking this thing actually kinda scary. Kinda wish i had put the carb back instead of TPI and converting after i had it running. o well to late now. maybe another week or two and ill get around to starting it
You will be glad you put in the TPI well worth the effort and time to install it. Have to make sure your timing is right on the mark with TDC and distributor before you fire it up. If you have a cam and crank sensor in your setup check them before you fire the motor with a scan tool or laptop to make sure they are working properly, houstonvett