Okay- I have a 1980 with the 4 speed. When i pull up the t-bar and put the car in reverse it goes pretty easy. Then when i pull it out of reverse its not hard- but it doesn't pop back over so i can go into first. I have to physically jerk it back and forth to get it to pop over so i can drive forward. First of all, when i pull it out of reverse is it automatically supposed to pop back over, like newer cars? What would cause this? I wouldn't think linkage would be causing this problem, but i don't know.

 

In all honesty, I don't recall mine automatically popping over, and I don't think there is any kind of spring in the shifter mechanicals to do that. I could be wrong, but I think yours is operating as intended. Who knows. Maybe mines broken too. Now, I will say, I don't have to "jerk" mine over. I just need to move it over, and as I'm not speed shifting from reverse to 1st, this has never been a problem.

 

hmm- ok- so when u pull out of reverse and want to shift back into first are you supposed to pull up the t-handle again? Something is definately wrong in my shifter= i have to fight with it everytime i try to get it back over so i can shift into first.

 

No they dont automatically pop over , but if it is difficult , then you shifter may just be showing signs of age and need a little tweeking at the linkage, or some new bushings where the linkage mates to the shifter Assy. Minor adjustment is all i say.

Pop over automatically thats a good one

 

yeah 99% sure its linkage out of adjustment

 

I never tried shifting it from reverse to first without raising the T handle. It's just something I do. Whenever going in or out of reverse, I raise the T-handle. However, when I do shift in or out of reverse, it is relatively smooth, and there is no slapping, fighting or jerking involved. My car would call 911 for abuse like Yanni's girlfriend.

 

okay- im just going to pull the shifter completely out so i can look at it. What a pain

 

Its your linkage. Not sure if you have stock linkage or a hurst comp shifter linkage. I just had to replace my hurst linkage bushings b/c the linkage knuckles of the reverse and 1st/2nd gears kept getting caught on eachother b/c one of the bushings was worn and cockeyed. Under normal operation they should only rub eachother. Check your linkage bushings...they must be your cause. Also the reverse will not pop like your newer cars. They just slide out of reverse and into neutral. Pulling the linkage may require pulling the trans or at least the trans crossmember if you have a mid 70's. Get the car up and have someone move the shifter around as you look at it from the bottom, you should see the linkage move and get stuck. There's your problem...but make sure your vette is secured and safe before climbing under it. Good luck.

 

are 4 speeds suposed to be spring loaded? mine isn't......

i thought that was only done in 5 speeds to make it easier for you to find 3rd and 4th. a 4 speed is just the four corners of a box. can't miss that.

 

hey- thanks for the advice. Where can i get new bushings?

 

If, as I suspect, you have the original shifter in there then the spring that pushes down on the t-handle (and also keeps the t-handle from rattling) will indeed push the shifter over to the right as you pull it out of reverse. The shifter should then go smoothly through the reverse lockout gate and into the 1st/2nd shift channel. What it sounds like you have there is either a very worn shifter (the main bracket expands/bends over time due to abuse causing missed shifts) OR, it's simply misaligned. When all's right with the shifter; the reverse lever, 1st/2nd lever, and 3rd/4th lever channels all align with the reverse lockout gate. You'll need to make a trip under the car to check the alignment.

 

Hey - wait a minute... (Hammerhead's right) The stock shifter is spring loaded to neutral when coming out of reverse. When you pull it out of reverse, it should snap over to netural...This lockout also keeps you from shifting into reverse when you really wanted to grab 1st! It will be pretty floppy in neutral between 1st and 3rd.

 

I know the spring that pushes down the t-handle is missing. I can't imagine it would be causing the problems im having- but ill replace it anyway. I've looked under the car but i can't tell that anything looks wrong. It looks like a PITA to remove the shifter mechanisim to visually inspect it - being that the crossmember is right below it.

 

There are no bushings on a stock shifter.

And while the t-handle spring may not solve your hard shifter problem it will eliminate any t-handle rattle you may have had. It will also make it easier to narrow down/troubleshoot your main issue. Remember that the spring goes ON TOP of the t-handle forcing it down into the shifter assembly.

As for troubleshooting your shifter alignment; it's not as hard as you might think.

First, work from the back of the shifter. If you look up at the shifter from behind/the rear of the crossmember you'll see a small 1/4" notch in the shifter bracket that contains the shift levers. Simply put the shifter in neutral and then look up at this notch to see if the similar, but not quite exact shape, notch in each of the shift levers align with the bracket notch. If not adjust each lever as required to bring it into alignment. It's very difficult to actually use the special tool alignment method described by "the general" (due to space constraints but if you have small hands then go for it). But the notch method will get you very close.

Start with the reverse lever and work on the 1st/2nd and finally the 3rd/4th. Why? Because in order for you to achieve smooth shifter performance all three must align with the reverse lockout gate. So, lining up the reverse lever with this gate is the first step. Second, you get the shifter handle to move from reverse, through the gate, and smoothly into the 1st/2nd lever channel. Once this is accomplished it's then very easy to line up the 3rd/4th lever with the first two. Done correctly you should be able to pull up on the t-handle and move the shifter from left to right without hitting any of the shifter levers OR the reverse lockout gate. Drop the t-handle and you're then limited to the either the reverse lever or the forward gear levers.

As a secondary check; looking up at the shift levers (the ones actually in the shifter vs. the ones attached to the transmission) from below - make sure that there is virtually NO space available between the shift levers. That is; they should be able to move front to back but not side to side. They should be held tightly together by the main shifter bracket. If you can insert the blade of a flat screwdriver between the shift levers then your bracket is stretched/bent and the entire shifter should be removed for a rebuild. Why?... because if they are loose then each time you miss a shift or simply go to find a gear and jam the shift handle between the shift levers due to the side to side slop; you effectively spread the shifter bracket further and further apart which, of course, makes it that much more likely that the next shift will miss the desired lever. Soon the gap is so large between the levers that the shifter handle wedge (the handle at the very bottom is shaped like a wedge/football) will become stuck between the levers. At this point you'll have no idea what, if any, gear you're in and you'll find it very difficult to get the shifter handle out from in between the levers.

 

Thanks Hammerhead Fred= that was the exact advice i was looking for.

 

Do you have a Muncie gear shifter alighnment shim? You really need one (I think). The only vendor that sells them that I know of is Corvette Central and the part is only shown in their C2 catalog. It's only a couple of bucks. Buy two so you'll still have one after you misplace the first. (Notionally, the shim is about 2 1/2 inches long, 3/4 inch wide, and about 1/16 inch thick. I don't remember the exact dimensions.)

Volunteer Vette (forum sponsor) sells all the bits and pieces for the muncie shifters. Probably will want to think about buying some replacement parts. The shifter mechanism is exposed to road dirt/sand and rubbing and wearing can make the parts fit loosely.

 

No problem, hope it helps get you started.
As for the "shim" mentioned above by 68/70, that's the "special alignment tool" I referred to. You can actually make one yourself from a putty knife but good luck getting the tool up and into the slot it goes into while the shifter is in a car. A poster in a previous thred on this topic suggestion using a thin longnose clamp to set it but I didn't have any success with that either.

As for the rebuild kits: check the Zip site here

In the photo you'll see what appears to be two identical reverse lockout gates on the bottom right. These are the only important parts of the rebuild kit unless you've lost the t-handle spring. Fact is they are different as one is thicker than the other. They do this to take up the slack/space in your shifter should the bracket be stretched. If the shifter bracket has only a little stretch to it then indeed the thicker gate will effectively correct the loose shifter. It's been my experience though that you can actually bend the bracket back into "square" using a very large vice or a press. The bracket is actually two pieces of steel welded together for strength as it takes quite a beating over the years.
You'd be amazed at how much nicer the shifter works an feels when it's tight. Gone is the "broomstick in a bucket" feel everyone complains about when they talk about their 35 year old muncie shifter. Also note on the gates the retangular cutout which serves as the "gate" that the shifter "wedge" moves through. And just below the cutout you'll see the @1/4" notch I mentioned before. You're looking for a similar "notch" on the shifter bracket, levers, and the gate. They should be roughly in a line when the shifter is correctly set. The notches on the levers are not quite as pronounced but you'll see what I mean once you get a look at it from the rear. Mine were off center just a bit when I had it dialed in to the feel I wanted from the shifter.

 

Hammerhead,

I aligned the notches as you stated and it works great now- thanks.
No more fighting it- yeehaaa

 

Gotta love it when a plan comes together.

 

here is the "tool" on the right. I am still having trouble with my shifter, even after adjusting the linkage. May have to try it again.