With all the cam failures that I have read about lately I am trying to educate myself as much as posible about starting and tuning my engine. I have been reading Lars' paper on dropping in a distributor as well as setting timing for max performance and I have a couple of questions regarding some of the papers content. I understand the install of the distributor and the "walking" method for lining up the gear and pump rod. It is more of positioning the balancer marks and the distributor once in place that I need to work on understanding.

1. According to the below statement I should not align the balancer and the timing tab at "0" but at 8 advanced?
"Bring the engine up to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke and align the timing mark on the harmonic balancer with the 8-degree mark on the timing chain cover (or wherever you want the engine to fire. 8 Degrees is a good starting point for an initial start-up, but you can set it anywhere from 6 to 12 degrees before top center)."

2. I am running an MSD tach drive so the points description below does not apply. However is there a similar method as this to ensure you are at the firing point with an MSD distributor?
"Attach an Ohm-Meter (continuity tester) between the distributor primary lead wire (the wire coming out of the bottom of the distributor body) and ground (any point on the engine). Rotate the distributor body SLIGHTLY clockwise from the orientation shown in Figure 1 until you read continuity (points are closed – giving continuity to ground). Now, SLOWLY rotate the distributor body counter-clockwise until the points JUST break open (loss of continuity on the ohm meter). The instant the points break open is the ignition firing point."


I have a few more questions but this is a good start thanks!

 

OK, all you need to worry about in the first step is "Indexing" the distributor to the cam gear, thats all your doing. Rotate the engine so that the no1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke, stop with the mark on the harmonic balancer at the 8 degree mark Before zero. Now insert the distributor into the engine so that with it seated all the way in the rotor tab is pointing to the point that the #1 spark plug tower on the cap will be, with that done, the engine will be set at 8 degrees before.
Tha adjustment in step 2 is the "fine" adjustment as oposed to the "Rough" adjustment in step 1. You will acomplish the step 2 with a timing light instead of a meter.
Hope this helps

 

This is interesting. I have always started by setting the timing at zero, never had any problems and have great running cars?

 

ed, nothing wrong with starting at zero, but thats not where you want to be, the point is start it closer to where your going to end up anyway.

 

You'd be flat lucky if you achieved the 8 degree setting with indexing the distributor to the engine in step one without points. Step one gets you in the ball park in being able to start the car so you can get a light on it.

Whether you could see when a inductive or hall effect distributor grounded the negative coil lead by rotating the distributor is a good question, and my first thought is that it should if everything is powered on and the ignition switch in the run position. You could try with a volt/ohm meter set to measure continuity, one lead connected to the coil negitave and the other connected to ground. When you see continuity would be the point the spark plug fired.

 

Here s the procedure I always use:

Remove #1 Plug and reconnect to the wire.
#1 @ 8 BTDC (or whatever your pleasure)
Drop the distributor in and align rotor button with #1 post as described. Snug down the distributor bolt but leave it loose enough to move the distributor.

Turn the distrubor by hand and set the points with a feeler gauge. Then assemble distributor cap and wires.

Turn ignition switch on, with the coil hot, ground the #1 plug while it is attached to it's wire.
Rotate the distributor timing until the plug fires. (It is easier to see if your in a dark garage and use a flashlight to see what your doing.)

At the point the plug fires, tighten down the dist bolt, re-install #1 and fire it up. Check dwell and timing with proper instruments.

In many cases once you practice you can get it darn close to perfect.

 

Gonna fire it soon?

 

That's correct. Align the balancer timing line with whatever point you want the initial timing to be at. 8 to 12 degrees initial timing will make the engine fire up reliably.

You can't use an ohm meter to set the exact firing point on the electronic ignitions like you can on the points systems. However, you can look at the mag pickup and align the high points for a pretty close firing point. With the balancer set at 8-12 degrees and the high points aligned, you'll be close enough that the engine will fire and run immediately. You can then set your 36-degree total timing with a timing light while you're doing your elevated rpm cam break-in.

 

Awesome thanks for the clarification Lars.

Brettmc,
I am hping for memorial day weekend. I have my distributor, wire, MSD box and coil on order now. the all i need is radiator and carb. Many more questions to come....


Wade

 

Gettin close mang!! Make sure you vid the proceedings!!

I've got a rebuilt Holley 750 DP that I need to get rid of. I rebuilt it and painted it to to run on my 468 while I was getting the 850 annularized and painted. If you want it, let me know when you get ready for the carb portion of your project. I'll let it go very cheap to a forum member.

 

Thanks for the offer Brett I do appreciate it. I am probably going to go with an 850 Mighty Demon Annular. I have had my share of Holleys over the years and figured I would give this carb a try.

Thanks again
Wade