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On my 69 the key buzzer comes on only with the car running. It stays on the whole time the car is running, with key in on or access. it does not buzz. Does anyone know what this may be?
I would head on over to www.corvettefaq.com, look in the steering section, and look for articles on your steering system. Jim Shea has posted gobs of info there and you might find what you are looking for. IF your 69 system is similar to my 72, the key buzzer switch is probably bad. The switch in my 72 was exhibitin similar symptoms and, using the steering articles I was able to pull the key buzzer out quite easily. I actually had down to where I could pull the wheel and ignition cylinder in under 15 minutes. Anyhow, the key buzzer is nothing more than a clear plastic rectangular device about 3/8" X 3/8" X 2" (these are from memory) with two copper strips in them. When you put the key in the keyway, the two strips touch and make your door buzzer go off. However, when you move the key to run, the buzzing is gone. I THINK that this removes the ground, but this is a guess.
I would download the exploded views of your steering column, tilt versus standard, and get the working papers on how to repair this. Pull the steering wheel, horn trigger, ignition cylinder and then you will have access to the key buzzer. The hard part is finding a good working replacement buzzer switch. AFAIK, these aren't available except from salvage places and they will be as old as the one in your car. Mine had crumbled plastic.
The following link takes you to a scan on diagnosing a key buzzer problem. It is four pages long and quite complete. It was written more for diagnosing a steering column problem. It starts on the right hand column of page #1.
I think that you probably have both a steering column and a door switch problem. If I remember correctly, if your driver door is closed, the circuit to the buzzer should not be complete because the door switch should be open. So if your buzzer is sounding even with the door closed: the switch needs adjusting, the switch or the wires on the switch are bad and need to be repaired or replaced.
But you also must have a column or a problem somewhere else in the wiring because with the lock cylinder in the RUN position, the small plastic peg on the lock cylinder should be retracted and the key buzzer switch inside the column should be open. Therefore there should not be a complete connection to the key buzzer.
I think all of these different problems are addressed in the paper.