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How to test oil pump?

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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:43 PM
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Default How to test oil pump?

I have the pan out right now and want to make sure the pump is working fine. How do I test a pump? Car's got 55k mi on the motor.

I don't wanna change it for the sake of changing it...
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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Amir -
It's not often that a pump goes bad, unless it's had metal go through it (like a cam going bad...). If you've had metal go through the engine, change the pump.

There are a couple things you can do to check the pump out. The first is with the pan on the engine, you can use an oil pump prime tool along with a mechanical pressure gauge in the oil passage and spin the pump. You should easily be able to obtain 40psi or more on a drill motor with a good pump. Since you have the pan off the engine, you can't do a "wet pressure test", but you can pull the bottom plate off the pump and inspect it. If the pump is bad, you'll have wear and scoring of the bottom plate, the surfaces of the gears, and you'll see wear on the gear teeth themselves. If you have any observable wear of the pump, replace it.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by desi
I don't wanna change it for the sake of changing it...
Why not? Its only 30 bucks and you'll have freash clearances. Get a high volume one.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 02:38 PM
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Oil pumps almost never go bad.....they get the oil before anything else.


That said, it's cheap insurance to buy a new one.


I'll disagree about just abstractly going to the high volume pump......I wouldn't run one unless I wa going to run a motor atpretty high RPMs and then ONLY WITH A LARGE CAPACITY OIL PAN.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by evil herbavore
I'll disagree about just abstractly going to the high volume pump......I wouldn't run one unless I wa going to run a motor atpretty high RPMs and then ONLY WITH A LARGE CAPACITY OIL PAN.
It seems logical that an older motor with larger bearing clearances would require more volume to keep the pressure up. Maybe i'm wrong.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 03:55 PM
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Turtle -
We avoid using the high volume pumps on small block Chevys because they tend to pump too much oil up into the top end of the engine. This results in excessive oil consumption down the valve guides with no real benefit to the lower end. A nice pump with good balance between reasonable volume and good pressure is the stock Z-28 pump.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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Lars - You don't even need a pressure gauge. I have a 1/3 HP drill and it immediately overloads the drill.

If it wasn't pumping the drill would lot get such a heavy load.
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 04:32 PM
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I agree with Lars, use a Melling 55A (Z-28) type... don't forget a new steel shaft...
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Old Apr 25, 2006 | 10:23 PM
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I took the pump off tonight. I have not taken the plate off to see the wear on the gears yet. Do that tomorrow... But I did notice the plastic sleeve had split along the middle. What is the function of this sleeve?

BTW, I have the motor apart because of my wiped cam recently. If there is any wear on the pump, I will be getting the Z-28 pump.
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:00 AM
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Cheap insurance: new melling z28 pump/new pump shaft with steel collar (not the fiber like OEM).
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 10:57 PM
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As you said the cam is wiped out, just about where all that metal went? You can bet the block and everything else in the engine has been contaminated, Filters can only do so much. Maybe it is time to look at a overhaul?
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Old May 2, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by b71vette
Cheap insurance: new melling z28 pump/new pump shaft with steel collar (not the fiber like OEM).
I ordered the MEL-M55A pump. What shaft should I order? Are there different length shafts for Gen I SB? I was going to order MEL-IS-55E. Are Z-28 pumps same as Corvette ones?
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