Timing Question
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 745
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
Timing Question
ok, the msd6AL and the 3000 stall converter, new wires and plugs are in and following the lars protocol the thing is a slug. so i removed the limiting bushing in the msd distributer totally. its "all in"
by 2400 rpm and i am progressiviely advancing the timing and getting better performance each time. but im way past 36 degrees. im at 43 and it still doesnt ping. . do i continue to advance it until it pings then bring it down a tad. it seems to be running considerably hotter, approaching 200 but ive got a new aluminum radiator and stewart pump on the bench so im not too concerned (unless i should be). help please, going to the track tomorrow
by 2400 rpm and i am progressiviely advancing the timing and getting better performance each time. but im way past 36 degrees. im at 43 and it still doesnt ping. . do i continue to advance it until it pings then bring it down a tad. it seems to be running considerably hotter, approaching 200 but ive got a new aluminum radiator and stewart pump on the bench so im not too concerned (unless i should be). help please, going to the track tomorrow
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
If your vacuum advance is hooked up then I'm not surprised. With no engine load, then you'll probably go up to somewhere around 52*. If not, then something is amiss such as the timing light hookup or slipped outer ring on the harmonic balancer. If the vacuum advance is connected, disconnect it, block the vacuum line and start over.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
you say it's not pinging but are you roadtesting the car or just revving it up sitting still?
The only way to check for pinging and detonation would be to have the motor under load.
In either case I wouldn't take the total timing (without vacuum advance) past 36*-38* as once you reconnect the vacuum can it would push your total timing plus vacuum advance way too high.
The fact that you say it's starting to run hotter is telling you right there that you already have it too high at 43*.
The only way to check for pinging and detonation would be to have the motor under load.
In either case I wouldn't take the total timing (without vacuum advance) past 36*-38* as once you reconnect the vacuum can it would push your total timing plus vacuum advance way too high.
The fact that you say it's starting to run hotter is telling you right there that you already have it too high at 43*.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Congrate u are making the right efforts here.
Originally Posted by rastadr
ok, the msd6AL and the 3000 stall converter, new wires and plugs are in and following the lars protocol the thing is a slug. so i removed the limiting bushing in the msd distributer totally. its "all in"
by 2400 rpm and i am progressiviely advancing the timing and getting better performance each time. but im way past 36 degrees. im at 43 and it still doesnt ping. . do i continue to advance it until it pings then bring it down a tad. it seems to be running considerably hotter, approaching 200 but ive got a new aluminum radiator and stewart pump on the bench so im not too concerned (unless i should be). help please, going to the track tomorrow
by 2400 rpm and i am progressiviely advancing the timing and getting better performance each time. but im way past 36 degrees. im at 43 and it still doesnt ping. . do i continue to advance it until it pings then bring it down a tad. it seems to be running considerably hotter, approaching 200 but ive got a new aluminum radiator and stewart pump on the bench so im not too concerned (unless i should be). help please, going to the track tomorrow
You are doing it right but should adv at each 500rpm to record where it pings and then graph it - yea an advance curve.
Now you want to be as close to this curve as possible - within 1/2* if possible - but stay out of detonation.Problem with this is the curve will change with mixture and atmospheric conditions let alone engine loads. The new EFI systems use a knock sensor to do all this and my '94 Z28 will bog and fight me if i put 87 octane in it.
But your way ahead of most others timing if you match your timing curve while in the car.
Glad to see someone using thier head and timing the car under actual use conditions. Once you get the dist curved then you can road test it to fine tune.
Tune the vac adv/can last. Good effort rastadr. cardo0
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 1
From: North Bend Ohio
Are you sure that the readings you are getting are accurate? Have you verified that the balancer ring has not moved? Have you tested it under FULL load at WOT in second gear?
BigBlockk
Later.....
BigBlockk
Later.....
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