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I have read to test the coil by attaching one probe of an ohmeter to the rotor button on the dist cap and one probe to the tach, then batt wire from the coil. If both readings are infinite, the coil is no good. My new MSD tests "No Good".
I called MSD because the new coil I bought tests no good this way and they told me to test it with one lead to the rotor button, and one to the ground wire from the coil. If the reading is 9 ohms on the 20K scale it is a good coil. My new MSD tests Good.
I have read to test the coil by attaching one probe of an ohmeter to the rotor button on the dist cap and one probe to the tach, then batt wire from the coil. If both readings are infinite, the coil is no good. My new MSD tests "No Good".
I called MSD because the new coil I bought tests no good this way and they told me to test it with one lead to the rotor button, and one to the ground wire from the coil. If the reading is 9 ohms on the 20K scale it is a good coil. My new MSD tests Good.
What's going on?
Your 9 ohm test is of the secondary windings. Primary windings test between the pos & neg (2 small wires that lead directly into coil windings) ... probably gonna be about 1/10 of the secondary value... say about 0.5 to 1.5 ohms ... maybe your meter won't accurately detect/read such small resistance? ... not uncommon. Primary windings can fail when Secondary still good ... and vice versa ... open and/or closed shorts. A new parts house HEI coil is about $20 ... typically works as well as any in a street car.
Also, sometimes a coil will check good at room temp ... but check bad at underhood temps ... and vice versa.