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Who has built Hydroboost lines?

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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Jclgodale3
Aren't all C3 brake lines rubber from the factory?
I had high pressure hoses made for mine. they hold up to something like 3000 psi.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by xcelciador
I had high pressure hoses made for mine. they hold up to something like 3000 psi.
For your brakes? Or a Hydrobooster? My brake lines have already been converted to the stainless metal lines...
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by David Ey
sorry, brain gone bad
btw, thats a really nice stingray
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jclgodale3
For your brakes? Or a Hydrobooster? My brake lines have already been converted to the stainless metal lines...
Hydraboost. It cost me somewere around 46 dollars. But I had the stock lines of the truck or van ( I can't remember ) And they were to short so I had longer ones made.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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Search the Archives. I had mine built at the local parts store using 4200 PSI double wire Gates PS hose and crimp JIC fittings cost less than $100.

Be careful to "index the fittings if you're using elbows...

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ings/index.php


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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 12:25 AM
  #26  
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Great. A couple more questions. The pin in the Hydrobooster does not stick out from the unit like the old Vacuume booster pin does, which tells me the pin on the new Hydro wont's seat in the bore of the master cylinder when istalled. What changes have to happen here?







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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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Cut off the old pin And stick it in the master cylinder. This should take care of the gap. Cut it a little longer and trim it 'till perfection.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by xcelciador
Cut off the old pin And stick it in the master cylinder. This should take care of the gap. Cut it a little longer and trim it 'till perfection.
Wouldn't that craeta some "slop" in the bore?
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 03:02 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jclgodale3
Wouldn't that craeta some "slop" in the bore?
I would work ok, but I suggest changing to later shark m/cyl or maybe doing an aluminum m/cyl conversion....

GENE
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Jclgodale3
Great. A couple more questions. The pin in the Hydrobooster does not stick out from the unit like the old Vacuume booster pin does, which tells me the pin on the new Hydro wont's seat in the bore of the master cylinder when istalled. What changes have to happen here?







Jclgodale3,
You have the same master Cylinder as I have on my '71. The HB unit will work with the rod that came with it however you need to get an MC from a 78 or later Vette. The cup in the back of the piston is much shallower on the late model MC's than the earlier ones. Norval made his own rod and offered to make me one but with shippiong and handling from Canada and the time delay through customs I just went up to Advance auto and bought an MC for a 78 up Vette and it worked fine.

Also, Yes your hose routing is correct.

Wade
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 10:00 AM
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The difference is in the hole in the center of the MC piston. 77 and latter had the shallow bore and 76 and earlier had the deep bore. Wade is correct that the easiest way to correct this is to replace your MC with a 77 or newer MC. The HB came off of a newer model vehicle so it is the shallow design.

Neal
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:54 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
The difference is in the hole in the center of the MC piston. 77 and latter had the shallow bore and 76 and earlier had the deep bore. Wade is correct that the easiest way to correct this is to replace your MC with a 77 or newer MC. The HB came off of a newer model vehicle so it is the shallow design.

Neal
Got one today...thanks. Anyone in for fabricating some lines for me?
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 02:00 PM
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I will just bend and form some new lines from stainless tubing and use 37deg JIC/AN flare nuts and sleeves and the adapters required for the inverted flare and 2 metric threads.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I will just bend and form some new lines from stainless tubing and use 37deg JIC/AN flare nuts and sleeves and the adapters required for the inverted flare and 2 metric threads.
What about the "flex" between engine rotation and the booster?
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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Oh, yes I have a braided line on the pump that runs to the frame, from there on it'll be a hard line (with a bulkhead fitting securing the hard line on a tab the frame)
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Oh, yes I have a braided line on the pump that runs to the frame, from there on it'll be a hard line (with a bulkhead fitting securing the hard line on a tab the frame)
Got it
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 09:22 AM
  #37  
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Did you complete your install.
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 12:39 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by johns73
Did you complete your install.
Everything but the hoses. Trying to find out what type of fittings (18mm and 16mm) go to the hydrobooster. Gotta tell the hydraulic shop building them. Anyone know? Are they o-ring fittings? Reverse flare fittings?
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 12:52 PM
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Good deal, Was it hard pulling the stock booster?
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Old Jun 19, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by johns73
Good deal, Was it hard pulling the stock booster?
With the dash, steering column and seats in...yes. The top left nut is like a treasure hunt trying to get to. I did as some others did and mounted the studs from the hydro from the inside so the nuts were under the hood for future removal/replacement.
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