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For your brakes? Or a Hydrobooster? My brake lines have already been converted to the stainless metal lines...
Hydraboost. It cost me somewere around 46 dollars. But I had the stock lines of the truck or van ( I can't remember ) And they were to short so I had longer ones made.
Great. A couple more questions. The pin in the Hydrobooster does not stick out from the unit like the old Vacuume booster pin does, which tells me the pin on the new Hydro wont's seat in the bore of the master cylinder when istalled. What changes have to happen here?
Great. A couple more questions. The pin in the Hydrobooster does not stick out from the unit like the old Vacuume booster pin does, which tells me the pin on the new Hydro wont's seat in the bore of the master cylinder when istalled. What changes have to happen here?
Jclgodale3,
You have the same master Cylinder as I have on my '71. The HB unit will work with the rod that came with it however you need to get an MC from a 78 or later Vette. The cup in the back of the piston is much shallower on the late model MC's than the earlier ones. Norval made his own rod and offered to make me one but with shippiong and handling from Canada and the time delay through customs I just went up to Advance auto and bought an MC for a 78 up Vette and it worked fine.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
The difference is in the hole in the center of the MC piston. 77 and latter had the shallow bore and 76 and earlier had the deep bore. Wade is correct that the easiest way to correct this is to replace your MC with a 77 or newer MC. The HB came off of a newer model vehicle so it is the shallow design.
The difference is in the hole in the center of the MC piston. 77 and latter had the shallow bore and 76 and earlier had the deep bore. Wade is correct that the easiest way to correct this is to replace your MC with a 77 or newer MC. The HB came off of a newer model vehicle so it is the shallow design.
Neal
Got one today...thanks. Anyone in for fabricating some lines for me?
I will just bend and form some new lines from stainless tubing and use 37deg JIC/AN flare nuts and sleeves and the adapters required for the inverted flare and 2 metric threads.
I will just bend and form some new lines from stainless tubing and use 37deg JIC/AN flare nuts and sleeves and the adapters required for the inverted flare and 2 metric threads.
What about the "flex" between engine rotation and the booster?
Oh, yes I have a braided line on the pump that runs to the frame, from there on it'll be a hard line (with a bulkhead fitting securing the hard line on a tab the frame)
Oh, yes I have a braided line on the pump that runs to the frame, from there on it'll be a hard line (with a bulkhead fitting securing the hard line on a tab the frame)
Everything but the hoses. Trying to find out what type of fittings (18mm and 16mm) go to the hydrobooster. Gotta tell the hydraulic shop building them. Anyone know? Are they o-ring fittings? Reverse flare fittings?
With the dash, steering column and seats in...yes. The top left nut is like a treasure hunt trying to get to. I did as some others did and mounted the studs from the hydro from the inside so the nuts were under the hood for future removal/replacement.