C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Brake troubles!!!!!

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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 09:33 AM
  #21  
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Jim -how long did you bench bleed? It takes me about 5 min. before I am sure all air is out.I push and let set-then tap with a small brass hammer-then 1/2 stroke and tap in the middle of stroke-then do it 5000 more times-No really this is very important to make sure there is "NO" air at all left inside cyl.-watch the little holes at the bottom of each reservoir there can be no air.The back reservoir is usually the culprit.If you want try putting foot on pedal and cracking the back fitting on master cylinder and seeing if air comes out-if it does I would rebench bleed.--You cant bench bleed on the car-the pedal will not fully stroke the piston.

Last edited by ...Roger...; Jul 4, 2006 at 09:44 AM.
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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Thanks
might have tracked this down to a bad rear caliper - hopefully!
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:14 AM
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Bleed them in the proper GM shop manual sequence. The biggest mistake I continually see is bleeding farthest to shortest. Now the replies will come in saying "my buddy who is a mechanic says you always bleed fartheset to shrotest". You will bleed forever on a C3; it is different. It is LR; RR; LF; RF. I have been through this more than once and had to prove it to a stock car racer who told me I was wrong. We were out of town, I called my daugheter at thome and walked her throught the shop manual, wrote it down. We had spent an hour not getting a pedal and I "suggested" that the sequence was wrong. Once we had the right sequence, we had a good pedal in one pass,
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Thanks
thats the way I am going to do it tonight LR; RR; LF; RF...
only thing about it that gets me is that the block connection for the lines is at the LR (comes from the master to a tee then goes to the RR)-so it seems intuitive from an air flow stand point to do the RR first -just a comment!
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGJIM13
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thats the way I am going to do it tonight LR; RR; LF; RF...
only thing about it that gets me is that the block connection for the lines is at the LR (comes from the master to a tee then goes to the RR)-so it seems intuitive from an air flow stand point to do the RR first -just a comment!
You want to get the air out before it starts over to the RR--air likes to hang in threads and fittings and high spots.
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 07:35 PM
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HI
I bought one of the bleeders suggested on this thread - actually the universal one does not work - you have to buy the one for our type of master cylinder - so I need to return it and get the other one - not the universal one! just letting anyone else know who might be looking for one!
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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If you are saying the rod is pushing the M/C when you bolt it down. I would shorten the rod so their is no pressure on the piston. This can cause no rear brakes.
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