half shafts


i just ordered a set of heavy duty half shafts (complete) and Polly diff bushing, and will be going to town this weekend.
Any tips, hidden pitfalls here?
The reason for this is a clunking sound, that others have described here, and sure enough u joints are bad, and bushing is worn, since both could be the root cause, i figured i go ahead and replace and upgrade at the same time.
Ill keep the older smaller ones for later refurbishment.
Ill post pics from the process when im done
tim


Ok, thanks for the input. BTW there arent any french locks on there now, do i really need them? I was thinking just using lock tight during assembly?
The only other place ive seen the french locks used was on camaro exhaust manifolds, an didnt use them there either, Im not interested in resto points just safety
Last edited by sweethence; Jul 24, 2006 at 11:42 AM.


yeah thats a modernization i can live with
thanks
tim
i just ordered a set of heavy duty half shafts (complete) and Polly diff bushing, and will be going to town this weekend.
Any tips, hidden pitfalls here?
The reason for this is a clunking sound, that others have described here, and sure enough u joints are bad, and bushing is worn, since both could be the root cause, i figured i go ahead and replace and upgrade at the same time.
Ill keep the older smaller ones for later refurbishment.
Ill post pics from the process when im done
tim
Make sure the car is raised, wheels off the ground and trans in neutral.
Take the 4 bolts out on the wheel side that mount the halfshaft flange to the trailing arm spindle. I assume you got new flanges with the new half shafts. Usually you do. Then with only the one side unbolted slowly turn the wheel itself, your diff will turn too which is fine. As you turn the wheel slide the half shaft flange out to one side. the angle of the trailing arm to diff when no spring counterpressure allows you to just rotate and slide the one side off. (you may have to use a large screwdriver to pry it out of its ring grove on the trailing arm. Then once that side is loose, rotate the half shaft with the diff so you have access to the u bolts on the differential. And your done.


didnt think there were any surprises luking here from my inspections,
Oh and i took a second look and i do have frech locks, but there were so rusty i couldn't recognize them
ordered a set from doc rebuild, with a new set of bolts all around here is before, from when i did the rears spring and shocks


here is what is going in

cant wait till friday now
Last edited by sweethence; Jul 25, 2006 at 08:04 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


these came from ecklers, 179 ea 3" dia with flange yoke and u joints part number 46096
They cost a Little more (it is ecklers after all), plus i went with the HD one
corvette america had them cheeper but direct ship from vendor and only 2.5", (hate that deal)
corvette central had only one in stock
Doc rebiuld has all the parts but not assembled and even more than ecklers
per side
half shaft $142
u joints $42 (pair)
flange $99
went with eckers since that had em in stock, assembled and ready to go. they will be at my door on Thursday, True i spent a little more, but i will save hours on the swap out as opposed to rebuilding them my self ( been there done that manhood already proved
)ill post pics when they get here.
as fas as the old ones, they will go in my original things to recondition later bin
Last edited by sweethence; Jul 25, 2006 at 01:50 PM.


didnt you read, that was the before shot from a previous project.
and the TA's will be a winter project, the bushings are worn but servicable and the bearings are actually in decent shape, i replaced the spring & shocks an have new strut rods from VBP waiting to go in as well....
but thanks for calling me out
, The old boy aint no trailer queen chief, I use it as a daily driver AND its been to watkins glen twice, made it on part of this years hot rod power tour, and multiple trips from upstate NY to NJ/DE/MD with out so much as a broken belt, so yea its time for some clean up, and some maint now
and then right back on the road !!!!
Lets see your undercarriage champ
Last edited by sweethence; Jul 25, 2006 at 01:56 PM.


I think I missing something......oh yeah a drivetrain...Me Jelous ?!? perish the thought
I just wanted to see his picture perfect show quality rear end so i could take notes
BTW nice looking bay, one day ill get to that
looks like your battery box is in dire straights
Tim


Almost home to daddy

BUFFALO, NY, US 07/26/2006 1:59 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
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I have small fiberglass cracks that led to holes in my firewall smaller than a dime, is it worth using some fiberglass matt or just use the resin to plug the hole or maybe a body filler?? Just trying to prevent good'ol
H20 from entering the cockpit. Anyone use kitty-hair? its like a body filler but with tiny fiberglass strands in it, know where i can get some locally?
Almost home to daddy

BUFFALO, NY, US 07/26/2006 1:59 P.M. DEPARTURE SCAN
What makes them heavy duty? thicker walls? they come with spicer non-greaseable u-joints?


What makes them heavy duty? thicker walls? they come with spicer non-greaseable u-joints?
3 in dia shaft vs 2.5 stock small block
I ask b/c early next week I too will be ordering 3" half shafts for my 68 and keep the stock 2.5" as spares.
Fort Wayne Clutch has them for $150 a pair w/flange and w/spicer u-joints. You paid that for one, so I'm assuming your HD's are stronger.
Another stupid question after the above one is given thought, did 68 big block cars come with 2.5" halfshafts or larger 3" ones? I thought the 3" did come around till early 70's...








