C3 rear spring replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: North Hills California
C3 rear spring replacement
Getting ready to tackle the rear spring on my '72. Just a stock replacement. The original went flat. Anyway, any tips would be appreciated. It doesn't look to be to tough, but we all know how that works!!!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Reid
Thanks,
Reid
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
If none of the bolts are stuck, it's not too tough. I put the rear of mine up on jacks, then used a floor jack to compress each spring upward to relieve tension on the outer bolts. A c-clamp clamped on the spring above the jack contact point will keep the jack from slipping up on the spring. Do both outsides, then undo the center bolts. You will be surprised how heavy the thing is...
Good luck -
Good luck -
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: North Hills California
Thanks!!! Thats pretty much how I figured it should go. I figured on soaking everything real good with PB Blaster first. I also read an article which mentioned c-clamping a block of wood to the spring to prevent jack slippage. I already have the new spring and bolt kit, so I do know it's pretty heavy....Isn't that the reason we have kids? LOL!!
thanks again,
Reid '72 T-top
thanks again,
Reid '72 T-top
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 758
Likes: 14
From: Ville de la Baie Quebec. A winner is just a loser who tried again.
And go out to the local bolt shop and pick up one set of 8inch and one set of 10inch bolts. Don't be supprised if you have to go to 10inches. No matter what anybody says, leaf springs do not settle down after a week or two. Also, you will need an alingment,,,, 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
I would also recommend that you loosen the bolts that hold the spring to the rear a couple of threads before releasing the end bolts. And when you reinstall the new spring, just snug these same bolts up to the rear before attaching the end bolts to the trailing arms. Do not torque them tight until the spring is flattened out, preferably with the weight of the car on the end bolts. There is so much curvature in the stock spring, it is easy to strip the threads in the rearend cover if you do it otherwise.
Good luck... it's not too tough of a job if you get the old bolts to cooperate... GUSTO
Good luck... it's not too tough of a job if you get the old bolts to cooperate... GUSTO
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by GUSTO14
I would also recommend that you loosen the bolts that hold the spring to the rear a couple of threads before releasing the end bolts. And when you reinstall the new spring, just snug these same bolts up to the rear before attaching the end bolts to the trailing arms. Do not torque them tight until the spring is flattened out, preferably with the weight of the car on the end bolts. There is so much curvature in the stock spring, it is easy to strip the threads in the rearend cover if you do it otherwise.
Good luck... it's not too tough of a job if you get the old bolts to cooperate... GUSTO
Good luck... it's not too tough of a job if you get the old bolts to cooperate... GUSTO
Also just a note for safety-dont get under ends of spring-the ends are pushing DOWN --because of the transverse spring some people have been known to get confused and hurt themselves very bad.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Wheaton Illinois
I just put a new steel spring on my 76 today. I had to cut the spring bolts to get the old spring out. The new spring had a strap around it near each end. I left them on until I was done and they kept my jack from slipping up the spring like the block of wood recommended in the manual. Pretty easy job actually.
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Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Fort Myers, Fl / St. Paul, Mn
Best spring tip ever
Get a composite spring. I just put one in my 72 and it is so smooth that I ordered the front kit. A bumpy stretch of road by my house where I get tossed against the t-top has now disappeared completely. The front is still bounces down that road - but not for long.
Oh yeah, no problems with ride height.
Oh yeah, no problems with ride height.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Boulder CO
A pretty straight forward project but it does help to have a 2nd set of hands to deal with that heavy stock spring. I needed to drop the exhaust down, by removing a single bolt on each side at the rear, which made it easier for the spring to slide out. I'll second the idea of clamping a vice grip on the spring to prevent the jack from moving. Here's the set-up for relieving tension on the ends and loosening the bolt.
I replaced my stock spring with a 330# composite and then added QA-1 adjustable shocks all around. The handling difference is light years ahead of stock.
Good luck!
I replaced my stock spring with a 330# composite and then added QA-1 adjustable shocks all around. The handling difference is light years ahead of stock.
Good luck!
