Steeroids disappointment
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
Steeroids disappointment
Well, the more I drive it, the more disappointed I become with my Steeroids. I guess I need to call the vendor in the morning and ask them about it.
I just went out and measured the play with a protractor. I'm getting nearly 15 degrees of play! That's honest play, at the steering wheel. This is slop that occurs before it begins engaging the tires, (265/60/R15) and their inherent flex/slop. I'm using the tip of my pinkie finger pressed against the center of one of the spokes to turn the wheel, and holding the protractor with the other hand. When I'm driving it, I'm in constant motion, tweaking the wheel slop.
I also am able to grab the u-joints and reproduce all that slop, although I don't have a way to measure it.
Nearly 15 degrees of slop!
My son came home from college the other week. He hadn't driven it since the steeroids conversion. His comment...."Dad, it really doesn't feel much better"
Well, I know it's a little better than it was, it had been over 8 months since he drove it, but still!
Checking out my other daily drivers (Chevy, Honda, Ford, VW), all of them have between 1 and 5 degrees of play.
Anyone else? Or maybe I just got a bad rack? This setup was way too much money for the very marginal improvement I'm experiencing.
I just went out and measured the play with a protractor. I'm getting nearly 15 degrees of play! That's honest play, at the steering wheel. This is slop that occurs before it begins engaging the tires, (265/60/R15) and their inherent flex/slop. I'm using the tip of my pinkie finger pressed against the center of one of the spokes to turn the wheel, and holding the protractor with the other hand. When I'm driving it, I'm in constant motion, tweaking the wheel slop.
I also am able to grab the u-joints and reproduce all that slop, although I don't have a way to measure it.
Nearly 15 degrees of slop!
My son came home from college the other week. He hadn't driven it since the steeroids conversion. His comment...."Dad, it really doesn't feel much better"
Well, I know it's a little better than it was, it had been over 8 months since he drove it, but still!
Checking out my other daily drivers (Chevy, Honda, Ford, VW), all of them have between 1 and 5 degrees of play.
Anyone else? Or maybe I just got a bad rack? This setup was way too much money for the very marginal improvement I'm experiencing.
Last edited by cchristo; Aug 15, 2006 at 01:18 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by cchristo
Well, the more I drive it, the more disappointed I become with my Steeroids. I guess I need to call the vendor in the morning and ask them about it.
I just went out and measured the play with a protractor. I'm getting nearly 15 degrees of play! That's honest play, at the steering wheel. This is slop that occurs before it begins engaging the tires, (265/60/R15) and their inherent flex/slop. I'm using the tip of my pinkie finger pressed against the center of one of the spokes to turn the wheel, and holding the protractor with the other hand. When I'm driving it, I'm in constant motion, tweaking the wheel slop.
Nearly 15 degrees of slop!
My son came home from college the other week. He hadn't driven it since the steeroids conversion. His comment...."Dad, it really doesn't feel much better"
Well, I know it's a little better than it was, it had been over 8 months since he drove it, but still!
Checking out my other daily drivers (Chevy, Honda, Ford, VW), all of them have between 1 and 5 degrees of play.
Anyone else? Or maybe I just got a bad rack? This setup was way too much money for the very marginal improvement I'm experiencing.
I just went out and measured the play with a protractor. I'm getting nearly 15 degrees of play! That's honest play, at the steering wheel. This is slop that occurs before it begins engaging the tires, (265/60/R15) and their inherent flex/slop. I'm using the tip of my pinkie finger pressed against the center of one of the spokes to turn the wheel, and holding the protractor with the other hand. When I'm driving it, I'm in constant motion, tweaking the wheel slop.
Nearly 15 degrees of slop!
My son came home from college the other week. He hadn't driven it since the steeroids conversion. His comment...."Dad, it really doesn't feel much better"
Well, I know it's a little better than it was, it had been over 8 months since he drove it, but still!
Checking out my other daily drivers (Chevy, Honda, Ford, VW), all of them have between 1 and 5 degrees of play.
Anyone else? Or maybe I just got a bad rack? This setup was way too much money for the very marginal improvement I'm experiencing.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: Meridian, MS
wow, i really don't think i have that much play in my stock set up!!!!! i have not gotten my alligned because i am waiting to save up the 1200 bucks for the steeroids. i would love to have the vette as tight as my s-10. keep us informed of the outcome.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
You should be able to spot where the slop is coming from, rather easily....if the input shaft moves consistantly with no clicks and vibrations when wheel is turned....2 people required, you need replace the rack, assuming everything underneath is solid....tie rods, etc....
you should see no slop when that input shaft is turned that rack should move, and I mean right NOW....no slop...none...
you should see no slop when that input shaft is turned that rack should move, and I mean right NOW....no slop...none...
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by mrvette
You should be able to spot where the slop is coming from, rather easily....if the input shaft moves consistantly with no clicks and vibrations when wheel is turned....2 people required, you need replace the rack, assuming everything underneath is solid....tie rods, etc....
you should see no slop when that input shaft is turned that rack should move, and I mean right NOW....no slop...none...
you should see no slop when that input shaft is turned that rack should move, and I mean right NOW....no slop...none...
Like I mentioned, none of my other vehicles have this slop. I'm calling the vendor today and see what they have to say.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
You have something not set up correctly, did you replace the plastic bushing in the lower column?
Check the online info, they mention that as being a source of play and needs to be replaced if loose, I could move mine 1/8" before replacing the bushing
Here is the link mentioning the bushing and play in the wheel
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=115
Check the online info, they mention that as being a source of play and needs to be replaced if loose, I could move mine 1/8" before replacing the bushing
Here is the link mentioning the bushing and play in the wheel
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=115
Last edited by Fevre; Aug 15, 2006 at 08:35 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by Fevre
You have something not set up correctly, did you replace the plastic bushing in the lower column?
Check the online info, they mention that as being a source of play and needs to be replaced if loose, I could move mine 1/8" before replacing the bushing
Here is the link mentioning the bushing and play in the wheel
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=115
Check the online info, they mention that as being a source of play and needs to be replaced if loose, I could move mine 1/8" before replacing the bushing
Here is the link mentioning the bushing and play in the wheel
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.aspx?nodeID=115
I do have excessive play in the upper and lower column bearings, and I'll replace those, but my concern has to do with slop in the rack itself.
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 11,322
Likes: 1
From: Living in the Hartland
From the steeriods website:
Any movement at the shaft end will translate into play in the wheel since when you turn the wheel the shaft will move up/down or side to side before actually actuating the rack. Might give it a try before doing anything else.
Also you will not be able to get a good set up on the heim joint until that play is gone, I had play in wheel until I got it adj correctly and I am sure the lose bushing is not helping matters for you.
* PLAY IN THE WHEEL: This is often caused by a worn bearing at the end of the steering column. It is not usually noticed with the original steering box, but with the Steeroids system it makes a big difference with regards to steering wheel "play". The bearing doesn't cost very much and only takes about 5 minutes to replace. They can be found on Eckler's website here. Thanks to Bjorn Leidelof from Sweden for the suggestion!
Also you will not be able to get a good set up on the heim joint until that play is gone, I had play in wheel until I got it adj correctly and I am sure the lose bushing is not helping matters for you.
Last edited by Fevre; Aug 15, 2006 at 09:31 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 119
From: St. Charles Mo
CI 5 & 8 Veteran
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
Guys go with the Jeep box. It is half the price, unclutters the bottom of the car and to me is a better solution.
norval, what's the big attraction to the Jeep box? I took a quick look and it appeared to me to be just another pitman arm control box similar to the original stock except smaller.
Bullshark
"Must be a "Jeep Thing" cause those Jeep guys are right.......I just don't understand.
Last edited by Bullshark; Aug 15, 2006 at 01:10 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,173
Likes: 5
From: Paducah Ky
play with the alignment of your u-joints in the steering linkage. Mine started out with a lot of play but has gotten a lot better by moving the top joint farther onto the column shaft so the joints are in better alignment.
NCM Grand Opening Veteran
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 20,979
Likes: 384
From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
Originally Posted by Bullshark
Suprising! That's not my experience with the Steeroids package! Something must be wrong with the rack???
norval, what's the big attraction to the Jeep box? I took a quick look and it appeared to me to be just another box similar to the original stock except smaller.
Bullshark
norval, what's the big attraction to the Jeep box? I took a quick look and it appeared to me to be just another box similar to the original stock except smaller.
Bullshark
Nothing under car anymore. Slave cylinder - gone, extra hoses - gone, tight steering with nothing to drag off. I'm pleased your Steeroids is working great, that is after all, the end result we all want.
Last edited by ratflinger; Aug 15, 2006 at 02:12 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by gyopp
play with the alignment of your u-joints in the steering linkage. Mine started out with a lot of play but has gotten a lot better by moving the top joint farther onto the column shaft so the joints are in better alignment.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
Originally Posted by cchristo
Yes, except that the play can be induced by grabbing and twisting the u-joints. While doing that, I can observe the input shaft rotating 10-15 degrees before I feel any significant resistance.
there is a clamp nut and a bolt/screw/nut to snug that up with....I would release the output plate and do the adjustment....I had to do this to a replacement rack on my '87 vette some years ago...it's really easy...obviously to snug up no more than easy turn without slop from side to side....done manually and with a LIGHT touch on the steering wheel....engine still, no power assist....
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Bullshark
Suprising! norval, what's the big attraction to the Jeep box? I took a quick look and it appeared to me to be just another pitman arm control box similar to the original stock except smaller.
Bullshark
"Must be a "Jeep Thing" cause those Jeep guys are right.......I just don't understand.
Bullshark
"Must be a "Jeep Thing" cause those Jeep guys are right.......I just don't understand.
And like ratflinger said gone it the slave cylinder, all the complicated lines that have to flex and the control valve.
It certainly isn't like the old box with it's catch up system.
It is 1/2 the price of steroids and look at the steroids installations. You hang this rack under the car, under the pan cluttering up the undercarriage. It is a messy install. Also look at the linkage with it's double universals to connect the steering column to the rac.
It is a micky mouse system, again there can be problems with binding in the linkage and I understand one of the pressure hoses can be a problem hooking up.
While BOTH systems were available to me very cheaply after good advice I went the more modern Jeep route , both a homemade kit and the bought kit. Both turned out very satifactory.
All I have left is a simple drag link running below the ban. The lines are extremely neat, don't need to flex so they can be routed neatly and I have nothing against Jeeps
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
I've said this before here, I installed a steeroids kit for a guy here and there's just so much flex in the brackets. On top of that we also discovered the brackets are crooked and the rack is not sitting perpendicular to the car axis, this means I'll have to fabricate a new bracket for the kit, I'll make it beefier to stop the flexing, it's also quite obvious it's too far forward on the drivers side since the tie rod has hit the lower a arm. Measurements indicated that when steering hard left-right @ standstill the input shaft moves a good 1" left to right because of bracket flex. IMO that's totally unacceptable. Add to that the 10$ el cheapo rod ends, the sleeves are from speedwaymotors so I assume the rod ends are also. For a 1500$ (or is it even more) kit I would have expected at least some half decent rod ends and not these cheap ones.
I'll probably post a new topic about the mods I'll do to it when done.
I'll probably post a new topic about the mods I'll do to it when done.
Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Aug 15, 2006 at 01:57 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I tried to post pictures of the steroid linkage and the rac under the car but Tiny picture hosting doesn't work so well anymore and I don't want to permently download them to my place.
The steroids really hangs low under the car and the twin universals need careful adjustment.
My jeep installation is extremely need, extremely short linkage and no slop in the steering.
Again it is $675 vs what $1249??? or something like that.
The steroids really hangs low under the car and the twin universals need careful adjustment.
My jeep installation is extremely need, extremely short linkage and no slop in the steering.
Again it is $675 vs what $1249??? or something like that.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 11,874
Likes: 263
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
somethng is not right...i have less then 1/4" of movement before the wheels are engaged something is not set up right......or there is a component defect....call them yu will be happy when it is working correctly.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
everything is set up right on the one I was working on.....the brackets are just very very flimsy. Maybe 2mm thick stamped steel with a coat of powdercoat on it. I checked it out from all angles, it's the brackets that flex like crazy.
