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After reading one of the previous threads that suggested compressing the pulley toward the alternator body to loosen the ring, I tried that. Failed miserably. Tried using all different sizes of screwdrivers to pry it out. Failed miserably. Finally got ticked off, stood it up on end, and tapped (not a hard blow, but not a light "ding," either) in a circular pattern around the lip of the pulley - the edge that was now up in the air, so the pulley was being pushed down toward the alternator body. The ring just jumped up and off. Literally.
You should try duplicating that. I think it was a combo of work you had already done, and a the tapping. I feel sorry for the alt the guy took the grinder to. Such a waste of a good pulley...
After reading one of the previous threads that suggested compressing the pulley toward the alternator body to loosen the ring, I tried that. Failed miserably. Tried using all different sizes of screwdrivers to pry it out. Failed miserably. Finally got ticked off, stood it up on end, and tapped (not a hard blow, but not a light "ding," either) in a circular pattern around the lip of the pulley - the edge that was now up in the air, so the pulley was being pushed down toward the alternator body. The ring just jumped up and off. Literally.
Got my altanator back today. I was told by the technician that rebuilt it that only one wire is to be hooked up on this one. The sensing circuit is built into the regulator internally so that wire does not have to be hooked up. They swapped pulleys for me so all I have to do is install it.
Bernie
Got my altanator back today. I was told by the technician that rebuilt it that only one wire is to be hooked up on this one. The sensing circuit is built into the regulator internally so that wire does not have to be hooked up. They swapped pulleys for me so all I have to do is install it.
Bernie
Got my altanator back today. I was told by the technician that rebuilt it that only one wire is to be hooked up on this one. The sensing circuit is built into the regulator internally so that wire does not have to be hooked up. They swapped pulleys for me so all I have to do is install it.
Bernie
Let us know how it works. With the way the electrical system is stretched out in a Corvette, I like the sense wire. Maybe I'm just paranoid.
As far as my pulley removal goes, there was no sign that anything had loosened up the ring until I tapped the pulley. I did the same thing immediately afterward to my CS130 (since I needed the fan off of it), and I hadn't touched it yet. The ring jumped right off of it, too. That alt had a smaller pulley, so I hadn't figured out how to get a screwdriver on the ring. I'm pretty sure the tapping did it all, and my previous hour of work was just a waste. I did take the CS144 apart afterward to check it out, there was no sign of any internal damage.
No harm no foul. You just stumbled onto a wonderful method of removing compression rings from alt pulleys. *High Five*
I was more worried about all of my previous bashing having caused damage...I'm really surprised there isn't an alternator-shaped dent in my garage drywall now.
I was more worried about all of my previous bashing having caused damage...I'm really surprised there isn't an alternator-shaped dent in my garage drywall now.
Got my altanator back today. I was told by the technician that rebuilt it that only one wire is to be hooked up on this one. The sensing circuit is built into the regulator internally so that wire does not have to be hooked up. They swapped pulleys for me so all I have to do is install it.
Bernie
Benie...any updates? The CS144 I just got has only one wire coming out of the pigtail. None cut off previously...just this one wire. What does this 1 wire connect to?
Benie...any updates? The CS144 I just got has only one wire coming out of the pigtail. None cut off previously...just this one wire. What does this 1 wire connect to?
I just did the swap from an SI to a CS130 for giggles. Went perfectly smooth until I got the wiring adapter in the mail, and it to only has one wire. It has both plugs so I could only hook it up one way but it maks me wonder why none of the other three wires are used.
If you have a red dash light for your alt, you do not need a resistor; the bulb acts as a resistor. For the one wire applications, the wire goes to the wire that runs to the # 1 plug on the alt. I think it is green. The problem with the CS144 is that there are at least 15 different regulators that could be installed in them and that affects how they need to be wired to our system. I would take it to an alternator rebuild shop and have them tell you exactly how you need to wire it based on the one you have. They have a list based on serial number.
Bernie
If you have a red dash light for your alt, you do not need a resistor; the bulb acts as a resistor. For the one wire applications, the wire goes to the wire that runs to the # 1 plug on the alt. I think it is green. The problem with the CS144 is that there are at least 15 different regulators that could be installed in them and that affects how they need to be wired to our system. I would take it to an alternator rebuild shop and have them tell you exactly how you need to wire it based on the one you have. They have a list based on serial number.
Bernie
So if I build a motor with two CS144s I will need to make sur eboth have the same regulators? Do CS130s have the same variences?
Ok...hooked it up with the 1 wire going to the red wire of the original 2 wire plug (one is white and one is red) Started up. 18 volts at 2500rpm! About 14.3 volts at idle. I smelled wire insulation heating up so turned it off. The hot lead going to the battery was extremely hot. The source of the smell. What do you suggest from here other than a larger wire replacing this one that goes to the starter?
I would definately go with 8 guage wire from the alt to the battery. I would also run an 8 guage wire from the batt post on the alt to a buss barr and use relays to turn on circuits to your lights and other accessories. this will keep all the heavy amperage from the dash area.
Bernie
I have to ask why you would want to put 2 140 amp alternators on your car? One CS144 should be more than enough for any accessories you would be using at any given time. the CS133s were not that good. I would use an older SE alt first. The CS144 is all you need.
Bernie
I have to ask why you would want to put 2 140 amp alternators on your car? One CS144 should be more than enough for any accessories you would be using at any given time. the CS133s were not that good. I would use an older SE alt first. The CS144 is all you need.
Bernie
I'm big into car audio, and have a big system planned for this Vette. I know from many years of experience that most stock charging systems can keep up with a big stereo, but only at high RPMs. It idle spedds, you are draining the battery and recharging it when the RPMs inicrease. Normally this is fine, but I have to replace the battery in my Durango twice a year for this reason. It's warranty and I aven't paid for a new battery in three years.....but if I can avoid the hassle os trying to start the car someday and failing...by installing two alts from the getgo...I will. I was going to do it with two CS130s since I have two brand new ones, and no CS144s.
All thats going to do is fry the battery faster Bernie. The reason the wire got so hot is the 18volt output, it is WAY overcharging. Output should be 14.2 or there abouts at speed.
You do need a big wire #8 or so from the alternator to a term block, BUT, that is to feed all the other electrics, Not the battery. Just because you have a 140 amp alternator that does not mean that the battery now needs 18volts to keep up.
It sounds like the alternator is Not seeing the reference voltage supplied thru the alternator light.