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Did you originally have an alternator with an internal regulator?
Edit: I would be surprised if they had changed colors between those two years, but your assumption should be correct if your car had an internal regulator. If the red wire has voltage on it with the ignition off then that assumption is probably true. The other wire should be switched 12V.
Did you originally have an alternator with an internal regulator?
Edit: I would be surprised if they had changed colors between those two years, but your assumption should be correct if your car had an internal regulator. If the red wire has voltage on it with the ignition off then that assumption is probably true. The other wire should be switched 12V.
Yes...the 63A that came off was internally regulated. The car originally had A/C
Yes...the 63A that came off was internally regulated. The car originally had A/C
Let's start over with these colors. Mine has a large red wire that goes from the alternators main power lug (charging) that goes to the horn relay then to the starter. The connector that plugged into the side of the alternator had two wires, one brown and one black/white stripped. Irrespective of the large red wire that went on the charging lug, yours has red and white wires in this connector?
Let's start over with these colors. Mine has a large red wire that goes from the alternators main power lug (charging) that goes to the horn relay then to the starter. The connector that plugged into the side of the alternator had two wires, one brown and one black/white stripped. Irrespective of the large red wire that went on the charging lug, yours has red and white wires in this connector?
Yes...Big red that connects straight to the "BAT" lug. Then, on the plug in connector that plugged into the original 63A alternator has 1 red wire and 1 white wire. The red originally went to the "F" marked spot on the 63A Alt.
The white originally went to the "R" marked spot on the 63A alt
I prolly fried this damn CS trying to hook it up
Maybe not, get a voltmeter and check the two connectorized wires for voltage. If your harness is like mine one of those wires is switched 12V, the other is constant 12V. I have the switched wire going to the L lug. The reason I don't use the other wire is because it went to the original amp gage that I've since replaced with a voltage gage. Hook it up this way and see if it works.
Which leads to another question, are you running an amp gage?
Maybe not, get a voltmeter and check the two connectorized wires for voltage. If your harness is like mine one of those wires is switched 12V, the other is constant 12V. I have the switched wire going to the L lug. The reason I don't use the other wire is because it went to the original amp gage that I've since replaced with a voltage gage. Hook it up this way and see if it works.
Which leads to another question, are you running an amp gage?
I say it's fried.
Here' the readings as you described:
Non running:
White wire=0 Volts
Red wire= 12.29 Volts
Running:
White wire= 12 volts
Red wire= 12.10 volts
OK, if you've got the big red wire on the batt lug and the white wire on the L lug and and the S lug jumped to the batt lug and you're still not charging, then you may be right...
OK, if you've got the big red wire on the batt lug and the white wire on the L lug and and the S lug jumped to the batt lug and you're still not charging, then you may be right...
I'm still not quite sure what you mean by the "S" lug jumped to the Bat lug. You mean take the S wire coming out of the new CS connector and wiring it directly to the Bat lug on the alternator? Where the wire is that goes to the horn relay?
I'm still not quite sure what you mean by the "S" lug jumped to the Bat lug. You mean take the S wire coming out of the new CS connector and wiring it directly to the Bat lug on the alternator? Where the wire is that goes to the horn relay?
Yes, that is saying the same thing with an additional note about the L lead needing 35 ohms of resistance. I don't have that in my setup and obviously the car didn't have the idiot light from the factory, but it's been working fine now for several years it keeping the battery at 14.5 volts, so...
The two wires on my factory harness with the SI plug are both red, one larger than the other.
You need to determine which one of the two is switched 12v meaning with the ignition key off no 12v, with the key in the run position you have 12v. This is the lead that connects to the L lug on the alternator.
You need to determine which one of the two is switched 12v meaning with the ignition key off no 12v, with the key in the run position you have 12v. This is the lead that connects to the L lug on the alternator.
Okay, and the other gets jumped to the battery? Which lug is that, or do I even need to worry about that?
Gotcha, thanks. Just so I'm clear, this is in a '77 Vette with a GEN light.
Ah, well that's different. I was assuming we were all talking about early 70's vintage. The schematic I sent in post 74 shows the F lead instead of the L lead in your case.
Ah, well that's different. I was assuming we were all talking about early 70's vintage. The schematic I sent in post 74 shows the F lead instead of the L lead in your case.
So 'F' is the ign lead, and 'S' is jumped to the battery. Okay.
Taking mine back by the shop today for a bench test to see if I fried it trying all this crazy wiring I can no longer get that 18v peak I originally got trying to hook it up, no matter what wiring configuration I try
Taking mine back by the shop today for a bench test to see if I fried it trying all this crazy wiring I can no longer get that 18v peak I originally got trying to hook it up, no matter what wiring configuration I try