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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 01:59 AM
  #21  
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Justin do you know how much open valve pressure your valve springs
are rated at, how thick were the head gaskets that came with your
kit??
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 01:59 AM
  #22  
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It is. What is happening now is when I give it a little throttle it stumbles alot.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 02:03 AM
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I'm not sure of either of those little mouse. I tried searching for my gasket set on summit but it is not on there anymore.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 02:06 AM
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No, I'm still alive. I think he is too. I've talked to the on three ocasions acually all of them I have escaped with my life but still a non functional money pit. Things should not be this complicated. I will most likely not buy Holley in the future.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 02:11 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I'm not sure of either of those little mouse. I tried searching for my gasket set on summit but it is not on there anymore.
Did the gaskets come with the kit. Give me a part # off something.
Your carb a 3310 ??
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 02:16 AM
  #26  
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Yup, that is the right carb. I found the gasket set:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:11 AM
  #27  
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Justin, I got your PM.... I replied, your box is full!
Ya gotta delete some messages
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:13 AM
  #28  
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Ok, send away.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:20 AM
  #29  
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If I have to replace my cam. Will I have to do my pushrods also? I just don't see why this garbage won't work together. It supposedly is made to but that is just the manufacturers claim.
This is the cam that is in there:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
How much smaller can I even go before I lose power dramatically?

Last edited by JustinD; Aug 26, 2006 at 03:24 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:25 AM
  #30  
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are you going to change to a lower duration cam??
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:27 AM
  #31  
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I don't want to. But if I have to. I just don't see why this won't work together. But I understand why it doesn't.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:36 AM
  #32  
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If you are not going to get rid of the 308 rear and stock converter
you need to drop down on duration and keep us much lift as you
can with the smaller duration cam. Wish you had 1.6 rockers that
would help keep lift with a smaller cam.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:39 AM
  #33  
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Well, the tranny and rear end are on the to do list. But not right this minute. I'm hoping to do something about that this winter. But that doesn't mean I wouldn't like to drive it for the last couple nice months. If I can keep my cam I'd love that. I can't voice my frustration the levels are to high, I think I might have a heart attack soon.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:53 AM
  #34  
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Spend $13.95 for the summit adapter and put your spreadbore back on
that will tell you a lot about your current carb the small primaries
and the overall smaller CFM will work a little better to tame the wild cam.
I had a 302 with a 780 vacuum carb and a solid lifter cam that did
not start to pull till 4000 RPM it did have 3.73 gears and a 4 speed.
Drove it away from the chevy dealer in 69 and it did not do any poping
or stumbling around.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Aug 26, 2006 at 03:57 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 03:56 AM
  #35  
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I'm gonna try and figure something out for a carb. I'm thinking mine is faulty.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 04:04 AM
  #36  
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JD:
For the systemax 2 ... HOLLEY states recommendations ... when a mfg does so, you should interpret those as minimum requirements.

Holley recommends (@ Holley site):
10:1 CR
Zero-deck block

Felpro 1003 gaskets (0.041" thick 4.166" bore @ about 9.1cc volume)
Flattop pistons
3.55 gear
2500-3K stall

Also, Holley states cam specs as:
Lunati P/N 07104LK hydraulic flat cam & lifter kit
234*/244* .488"/.510" icl 107* lsa 112*

So, w/ 9.2-9.4:1 CR, it seems pretty clear you don't have minimum CR.

Here's what's probably happening:
Too much camshaft ... too much duration/overlap ... port velocity is low ... manifold vacuum too low at low-mid rpm ... not enough vacuum to pull air through carb fast enough to pull fuel through circuits & properly atomize. You haven't said, but likely your gear/stall don't meet minimum requirement either. So, the motor falls on it's face ... sounds like classic example of overcamming STREET motor. You certainly aren't the first ... likely you won't be the last. You can mask the problem by dumping more raw fuel through carb via fiddling w/ accelerator pump/squirter ... but that's a band-aid ... and not addressing probable root cause.

Did you degree the cam in; verifying it has proper advance according to cam card? If not, you should do so; it may be too retarded. If you did properly degree it in, you might try adding 2*-4* more; that might help low rpm performance.

If you used FP 1003 gasket; you might try composition gasket Victor Reinz P/N 5746 instead ... it's 4.100" x 0.026" @ about 5.4cc & aluminum-safe ... will raise CR about 0.3 above what FP 1003 yields.

Please note my use of "about" & "might" & "probable" & "probably" & "likely" means exactly that; I haven't inspected/measured/observed your combo.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 04:10 AM
  #37  
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When I degreed in the cam all I was thought you had to do was make sure that the timing gear is on the right notch right?
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 04:16 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by JustinD
I'm gonna try and figure something out for a carb. I'm thinking mine is faulty.
If your going to keep the horse power cam you need to get a good
torque converter and trans cooler as soon as possible. The 2500
hughes should tame the cam down at idle and still be streetable.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 04:17 AM
  #39  
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That is what I planned but I need the motor running first.
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Old Aug 26, 2006 | 04:24 AM
  #40  
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The thinner head gasket would help your pistons are probably down
.025.
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