how about a nice lower duration high lift solid cam.

 

If that would be my best way out. I'm open to it.

 

I'm go tommorow in search of an adapter plate. Then I'll slap my old carb on. If it works I guess I call holley and demand a new carb. If not I most likely will be changing out my cam. What duration should I get?
Something like this:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

NO ... seems you installed a cam. To degree a cam requires a degree wheel & dial indicator and close adherance to instructions & detail.

here's the link to what Holley says about your package:
http://www.holley.com/BrowseCatalogs...olley&Page=234

 

A lower duration cam with less overlap would help your carb.
Solid cams even at the 275 adv. duration level make more power
then hydraulic flat tappits. you already have roller rockers that will
help lengthen the adjustment period. You don't have any a/c to
mess with. never have to worry with pumped up lifters.

 

Well, when installed the cam I followed the directions page 9 has exactlly what I did.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R9922-2.pdf

 

Pumped up lifters has nothing to do with how you adjusted your
valves. Over reving hydraulic cams can do it. A solid lifter is just
a chunk of metal you can't hurt them. Are you willing to adjust valves.

 

I can.

 

I see a lower duration hydraulic or soild in your future. I'm out of
here.

 

Over cammed or not it can be made to run. They get a little lazy is usualy what happens.

I posted to the other thread. If you can get your hands on a carb adapter and try another known good one you will save yourself a lot of money and headache. Your old spreadbore maybe?

Fresh plugs might help you too. They are probably fouled out by now.

-Mark.

 

 

That is on todays adgenda. I'm gonna go look for an adapter. If I can't find one I'll have to oder it from summit.

 

Justin my 73 LS4 454 had 8.25 compression 3.36s
for awhile before I changed pistons it had a 310/320 dur, 560/580
lift 108 LSA cam with only the factories 8.25 compression. It did
not do any stumbling, burbing, poping. what if you change cams
and it does not fix the problem?? Your cam is not maximized for
power with 9.5 comp, but you should not be burbing and stumbling
around. Good friend of mine had a 71 Z/28 with the factory LT1
cam factory 9.01 compression. the LT1 cam had duration on it
like you have, Rode with him many times he was not burping and
stumbling around. When I used to race him in my 302 Z/28 he would
beat me by about one and a half to two car lengths, the old hot street cammed little small blocks were not burbing and stumbling around. Guy that worked
with me at the automotive warehouse had a 71 demon, auto, 3.23 gears
lumpy hydraulic stock converter. it would try to surge a little at stop lights
with his foot on the brake he just put it in neutral, car ran 13.90s
rode with him on lunch breaks sometimes, with the lumpy cam it ran like
a little rocket lumpy cam and all. The guy with the 71 Z/28 changed to
4.88s and put the chevy off road cam in his car still had the 9.00 comp.
he tried to race the demon one night both with street tires ( it was funny )
the demon waxed him no problem. With 4.88s no traction the auto demon
shot out so far on him, it was all over.

 

Ok, I found some interesting data. After pulling every plug not just the two easy ones. I found that 2 were dark like it was rich but the other 6 were light like it was lean. So I think I have found the problem cylinders. 3 and 6 are noticalbly diffrent colors. By alot. I watched the bumps on the compression test and I got this data:
#1
1 80
2 110
3 130

#2
1 90
2 110
3 130

#3
1 110
2 120
3 130

#4
1 120
2 130
3 140

#5
1 90
2 110
3 145

#6
1 80
2 110
3 120

#7
1 80
2 110
3 130

#8
1 90
2 120
3 140

 

Also, my ported vacuum is reading a little under 10.

 

130 to 145 spread not good is 140-145 all you can get out of it
pull the heads and come up with some compression or get the chevy
L/48 cam. I thought you said around 155 before.

 

Thats almost your manifold vac.(11) Sounds like you have to have your throttle plates open too far to maintain idle.That alone will reduce your manifold vacumn.Sounds like you need to set up your carb.At 11" vacumn your 6.5 power valve is wrong.If you could get your throttle plates closed a little you might be able to increase your manifold vacumn.Lars has an article on Holleys on Barrys website-he tells you how to crack the secondarys so you can close your primarys some.Maybe you should try this before changing your power valve it might bring manifold vacumn up enough to use the 6.5.It is Tech Tip #6---if you do this be very careful-if you turn too much your engine will race and over rev !!! Be ready to back off on primarys.

 

Crower Cams
Part# 00223
.050 Int. dur. 214
.050. ex. dur. 222
adv. int. dur. 262
adv. ex. dur. 270
lift int. .450
lift. ex. .470
LSA 110
power range 305-350cu, 1800-5700 RPM

Just kidding about the L/48 cam I think it has around a
190s .050 int. dur. and a .390 int. lift.

 

Those numbers are only after 3 bumps of the needle. They all balance out about the same after a couple more compresion strokes.

 

Justin - I didn't read the whole thread so somebody may have mentioned this already. I agree that your symtoms sound like a carb issue, but I though I would throw this in the mix.
The SystemaxII kit is meant to be used with a block that has been blueprinted. More specifically, the short-block has to be zero-decked. The push rods supplied in the kit are shorter than the stock ones due to the lower deck height. If you are using the OE block without this done, you will have to have longer pushrods.
This may not have anything to do with your problem, but it just might as it would affect your valve geometry.
Or I could just be a complete idiot. You should research it though.
Good luck.