Vast Engine Problems
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
How about a new lower end. The thing is, is I don't want to lose a ton of power which I will. Also I still have the uncertainty of everthing working. I'm about 2 steps away from ripping the motor to peices and throwing it away. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
hell don't do that I have a new holley square flange carb you can use
for awhile if you think the carbs the problem for sure. I bought it for
my 69 chevy pickup I was going to rebuild the motor in it but I sold
it to the next door neighbor now the box is trying to collect dust on it.
Are you sure you don't want to just overhaul the engine with the FORD
tune up tool.
for awhile if you think the carbs the problem for sure. I bought it for
my 69 chevy pickup I was going to rebuild the motor in it but I sold
it to the next door neighbor now the box is trying to collect dust on it.
Are you sure you don't want to just overhaul the engine with the FORD
tune up tool.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
That is what I was thinking of plus my budddies here and he got a mustang. So he pretty good at using one. The ford tune up tool that is.
I'm never gonna make **** for power with what I've got so I may as well admit defeat and waste a bunch of money on a new lower end. But I have no idea.
I'm never gonna make **** for power with what I've got so I may as well admit defeat and waste a bunch of money on a new lower end. But I have no idea.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
it will cost a lot of time and some money to 0 deck the block.
power wise ya thats the best way, the second best bet for you
and what I would do for some more compression. buy a set of
.015 to .020 head gaskets. another thing you can do to raise comp.
is replace the dished bottom intake valve with a flat one. the valve
will be a little heavier but you only have a 6200-6500 cam its not
like you are trying to run your valve train up to 7500-8000. If you
have ever run your finger across a 2.02 intake valve and felt how
deep the dish is in the valve you will see what i'm talking about.
A little milder intake duration solid flat tappit will make just as much
HP as a higher duration hydraulic. A little less duration/overlap
makes life easier.
power wise ya thats the best way, the second best bet for you
and what I would do for some more compression. buy a set of
.015 to .020 head gaskets. another thing you can do to raise comp.
is replace the dished bottom intake valve with a flat one. the valve
will be a little heavier but you only have a 6200-6500 cam its not
like you are trying to run your valve train up to 7500-8000. If you
have ever run your finger across a 2.02 intake valve and felt how
deep the dish is in the valve you will see what i'm talking about.
A little milder intake duration solid flat tappit will make just as much
HP as a higher duration hydraulic. A little less duration/overlap
makes life easier.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
Likes: 0
From: Inver Grove Minnesota
Hum, well I don't really want to have to do the block. What should my power be around with a less duration cam? Around 350 at the crank cause I'm not so sure if that is acceptable. What ever would be the best way out I suppose. Down the road I can always add a forced induction setup. 
. So if I put in a thinner head gasket, do I need to replace my head bolts? Or will they be fine since they are new. I'm not sure I would do the valves unless I have to. Which if they are bent I may have to. According to a CR calculator by putting on a .02 in head gasket I can get 9.65:1.
. So if I put in a thinner head gasket, do I need to replace my head bolts? Or will they be fine since they are new. I'm not sure I would do the valves unless I have to. Which if they are bent I may have to. According to a CR calculator by putting on a .02 in head gasket I can get 9.65:1.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
Justin even if you go to the trouble to 0 deck and get the comp.
up you are still in a world of hurt with your cam and the stock
converter you need a 2500 stall converter like yesterday and the
extra trans cooler.
up you are still in a world of hurt with your cam and the stock
converter you need a 2500 stall converter like yesterday and the
extra trans cooler.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
Ya, I'm thinking a borg warner 4 speed is in order over the winter. Instead of redoing the block. I'll just make do the best I can with what I'm spinning on the low end right now.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
But first I need to sort the engine out, that is my number one priority. So, head gaskets for sure. But I don't want to have to buy new head bolts. And maybe a cam to deal with my lower CR while I'm in there.I don't wanna lose a ton of power. That is my main concern.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
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If you don't want to lose a bunch of upper hp go down 10 degrees
on the intake duration. Your engine right now with such low
compression is not making the power it should anyway. If you
use head gaskets that will raise cyl pressure the lower
dur./overlap cam will help. My guess would be the higher
comp/ lower dur. combo would make just as much HP and more
lower end torque then the bad combo you have now. Now if you
take a lot of duration out of the cam the upper end HP/TQ
will suffer it wont have that rush in of power you probably like
but the lower to 3000 rpm Torque will improve a lot.
on the intake duration. Your engine right now with such low
compression is not making the power it should anyway. If you
use head gaskets that will raise cyl pressure the lower
dur./overlap cam will help. My guess would be the higher
comp/ lower dur. combo would make just as much HP and more
lower end torque then the bad combo you have now. Now if you
take a lot of duration out of the cam the upper end HP/TQ
will suffer it wont have that rush in of power you probably like
but the lower to 3000 rpm Torque will improve a lot.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
I was looking at head gaskets. I found some that are thin but I'm not sure of my bore and they say not for GM lightwieght heads.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
So, If I cam down and try to raise my compression a little bit. Then put that behind a borg warner with some 373's I should be the same if not better off then than having a turbo 350 with 3:73's and my current set up cause of the power loss with and auto. Right?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 95
I was just talking about engine power, if you could find a way to get your compression up to 10.50 the cam you have would start working better you would still need a mild converter with it and some lower gearing would help with your 3600 pound tank to get it rolling.
with 67 cc heads and flat top pistons 10.50 is out. do you have any
58 cc heads in your back pocket.
with 67 cc heads and flat top pistons 10.50 is out. do you have any
58 cc heads in your back pocket.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,841
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From: Inver Grove Minnesota
No, but the kit is made to run on a 10:1 CR engine. So I'm pretty close. I got 9.65:1 with a smaller head gasket on the claculator and that is with a 4 in bore since I'm not sure what mine is.