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electrical problem solved

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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 04:23 AM
  #1  
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Default electrical problem solved

Ok guys after not receiving any answer on my previous post about the common electrical problems harassing our c3's, I decided to inspect the problem deeper. For the guys having problem with headlights not working, dashlights,power windows,locks, etc, etc..., before buying a lightswitch check your wiring harness first!!!

At the firewall driverside you have the big connector that fits into the connector in the cockpit driverside. Disconnect those and clean them with a brake cleaner and let it dry. Mine were not dirty, but it was covered by some kind of sealand that they used at the factory. This sealand got into the copperconectors and covered the electrical circuit.
I think a logical explenation for this, is the engine heator headers melting the sealand year by year so it could get it's way to the copper connectors.

It's an easy fix and took me an hour or less to do. Now I have a spare lightswitch and two spare of new door lockmotor.

I just wanted to share his info to help the ones getting nightmares with their electrical problems.

Ryan
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:06 AM
  #2  
...Roger...'s Avatar
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Default Your Kidding-Right?

Originally Posted by holley425hp
Ok guys after not receiving any answer on my previous post about the common electrical problems harassing our c3's, I decided to inspect the problem deeper. For the guys having problem with headlights not working, dashlights,power windows,locks, etc, etc..., before buying a lightswitch check your wiring harness first!!!

At the firewall driverside you have the big connector that fits into the connector in the cockpit driverside. Disconnect those and clean them with a brake cleaner and let it dry. Mine were not dirty, but it was covered by some kind of sealand that they used at the factory. This sealand got into the copperconectors and covered the electrical circuit.
I think a logical explenation for this, is the engine heator headers melting the sealand year by year so it could get it's way to the copper connectors.

It's an easy fix and took me an hour or less to do. Now I have a spare lightswitch and two spare of new door lockmotor.

I just wanted to share his info to help the ones getting nightmares with their electrical problems.

Ryan
One reason you didnt get any responses to your thread is you left out the year of your car,another is you didnt take the time to fill out your profile.Your completed profile would have given us some clues.If your talking about the bulkhead connector it would not knock out your dash lights only.You didnt say anything other than dash lights,you said nothing about windows ,headlights and locks.Spares?Chalk that up to experience.Fill out your profile.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:12 AM
  #3  
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Good work! Thanks for the tip!
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 10:37 AM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by holley425hp
...but it was covered by some kind of sealant that they used at the factory. This sealant got into the copper connectors and covered the electrical circuit.
If I understand your explanation correctly, you have just removed all of the dielectric grease that keeps the circuits in the bulkhead connector from corroding.

Here is my bulkhead connector. You can see the corrosion on the left hand side that was causing me all sorts of trouble with intermittent electrical problems.



Regards,

Jay

Last edited by griffths; Aug 29, 2006 at 10:42 AM.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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It sounds to me that you fixed the problem when you removed/reconnected the bulkhead connector, re-establishing contact with the copper contacts that were causing the problem in the first place. It might be a good idea to remove it again and clean the copper contacts, then put some more dielectric grease on the connector, or the same problem may return before long
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 12:43 PM
  #6  
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Thanks guys,

Yes the grease looked more like some sealant, but it not only stop corrotion it keeps moisture away. The sealant or grease was all over the copper contacts. So no electrical connection. I cleaned the connection as far and as good as I could. Now I have everything working. I'm also glad that my wiring harness didn't suffer from a bubba virus.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 01:15 PM
  #7  
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That grease needs to be there or you will be doing this again when the corrosion starts. Good that you found the contact problem, but you need the protection. You can tweek the female connectors a bit to tighten them up a bit, reapply the grease and you should be good for another 25 yrs
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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Go to the parts store, get a tube of dielectric grease and re-grease those contacts...or you're REALLY going to have fun when those contacts start corroding. You've got the contacts cleaned up and working again - great. Now keep them that way.

Removing all the dielectric grease is a very Bubba thing to do...
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Old Aug 30, 2006 | 02:16 PM
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Thanx guys,

But I've reapplied the grease already. Thanx for the tip anyawy.
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