When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ratflinger this new 195 eliminator head that they say will flow 300 CFM
at .600 valve lift will it have the heat crossover he wants??
Thats enough airflow to support a lot of HP.
In theory 300 cfm will support .257 x 300 x 8 = 616 horse.
But an average intake looses from 15 to 25% of the flow so taking 20% as average you are down from 300 to 240 cfm
.257 x 240 x8 = a potential of 493 horse.
I should have said "heat riser". It helps your engine warm up on cold starts by heating your intake, after that, I understand it hurts performance by making the fuel warmer & less dense of charge.....one of the trade-offs. And, yes, the AFR 195's are the biggest heads that have this feature.
you still did not answer my question????
Are you running headers or cast manifolds with a heat riser? Do you know what a 195 degree thermistat is?
Sorry, I am running headers & a 180 degree thermostat right now. I have a friend that built a 355 with the Edelbrock "E-Tec" heads & he says his runs like crap until it's warm, he says in cooler weather, like 10 minutes. Hope that helps. Thanks
You will get many opinions on this, so you'll have to decide what you want out of your motor. Idel quality...RPM range...street only...street/strip....etc. These factors will determine your component choices.
If your sold on AFR 195's, wait for the new Eliminator series to come out. Acording to AFR, they flow as well as or close to the current Race 210's but you'll sacrifice some high end HP.
The 195's will give good fuel velocity, low end torque & streetability, but you'll loose some top end HP. Optimum head size for a street driven traffic jam 406ci is around 200cc. A high lift (500-550) lower durration (230*-240* @ .050) hydraulic roller cam will also give you great streetability and make pleanty of power in the "street" RPM range. (5500-6000) If you plan on spinning the motor @ + 6000RPM and want all top end power (not practical for the street in my opinion) then a larger head (210cc) size & cam will be needed for optimum power. Your rear gearing, trans, & head size will also dictate your cam choice. Also...I have a 406 with 6" rods, and a standard base circle cam has pleanty of rod clearance.
Opinions will vary....this is just mine.
Good luck with your choice
Eddie
My traffic jam 406 is on tranny number 3.Turns 7000 rpms with the 195's and has all the streetable power my P295 50's can handle.As others have stated the stock 400 block is plenty strong enough to support 500hp or so,and can be built with off the shelf parts.Mine runs a flat tappet solid cam because I'm too cheap to buy a roller.
Headers make the cross over not really functional like how it was intended with a heat riser flapper valve that actually forces all the exhaust from one bank through in the bottom of the intake manifold.
So headers and a cross over ends up with some screwed up reversion problems. For that matter very few "Performance" intakes even have a cross over. So it would not matter if the heads did anyway
Most hot rod carbs don't even have a choke like my demon carbs. So they don't have all the nice things like a fast idle cam for starting and warming up.
What i do use is 192 or 195 degree thermistats to get the motor up and toasting warm as fast as possible. I fire up my motors and hold them about 2500 rpm for about 20 seconds and do a couple of petal pumps before dropping the car in gear like when I had my automatic. then you use the throttle and brake to keep the car going out to the street them it's good to go even below freezing.
These big cast iron motown or dart block have alot of metal in them and HP = heat. Cooling is what your going to have to be figuring out during the summer
Yes, I'm starting to lean that way. I will probably do the "Little M" block & run the 4 1/8" pistons because I can probably sell my stock 400 block for $400-$500 & have a couple of rebuilds left in Dart block. I am sticking to the new AFR 195's because I want the heat crossovers in the heads. I know I'll take abuse here because nobody runs them but I want something I can run in cool weather without warming it up forever. Do the solid roller cams have a "wider" rpm range of power or is that just my mistaken impression? Thanks again.
I have built many sb 400 using stock blocks that range from 385 hp to 575 hp. They range from standard bore to .060 over. As long as you have .100 wall thickness you won't have a problem. You seem to be worried about the next rebuild. You should get at least 50.000 street ,strip miles before you need to think about that. In my opinion those heads are way small. You lose nothing with a larger head and only gain torque and hp. It is best to use a longer rod. I usually use the scat 5.7 rod. Solid rollers have a wider torque range. Unless you are are a racer, and you don't appear to be if you are considering the small heads, the roller isn't worth the money. I have always found that the circle track grind with .535 lift, 242 duration @.050 and a 106 center line works well in a 10 to 11 to one compression 406. good luck. Happy motoring. Russ
Sorry for bringing a dead thread back to life after a decade, but I finally finished my build & in the sake of providing information for people searching for results, I am providing them, as there wasn't much info when I was looking.
Basic Build;
4.125" Dart SHP Block with 350 Mains
AFR 195 Eliminator Competition 75cc Heads with heat crossover
Callies Compstar 3.875" Crank
Scat 6" Pro Mod Rods with ARP 2000 bolts
530/530 @ 230/238 with a 112 lobe Hydraulic Roller(It was actually spec'd for a 396 SBC)
Weiand Stealth Dual Plane that was Exude-a-Honed to match the Ports
Barry Grant 650 CFM Mechanical Secondary Carb
Moroso Stroker Pan
Not a lot of Machining of the Pan rails with these rods.
On the Engine Dyno, the results are
560 Peak HP @ 5900
583 Peak Torque @ 4500
Ought to be a good street Engine, which is what I was going for. I know the Cam is too small, but it was paid for! Thanks!
Sorry for bringing a dead thread back to life after a decade, but I finally finished my build & in the sake of providing information for people searching for results, I am providing them, as there wasn't much info when I was looking.
Basic Build;
4.125" Dart SHP Block with 350 Mains
AFR 195 Eliminator Competition 75cc Heads with heat crossover
Callies Compstar 3.875" Crank
Scat 6" Pro Mod Rods with ARP 2000 bolts
530/530 @ 230/238 with a 112 lobe Hydraulic Roller(It was actually spec'd for a 396 SBC)
Weiand Stealth Dual Plane that was Exude-a-Honed to match the Ports
Barry Grant 650 CFM Mechanical Secondary Carb
Moroso Stroker Pan
Not a lot of Machining of the Pan rails with these rods.
On the Engine Dyno, the results are
560 Peak HP @ 5900
583 Peak Torque @ 4500
Ought to be a good street Engine, which is what I was going for. I know the Cam is too small, but it was paid for! Thanks!
What is your displacement? 415? Sorry, dont have a calculator handy...
I had a 427 before this with a much milder hydr. cam and dual plane RPM manifold. Put 485 ft-lbs to the rear wheels at about 4000 rpm. Blast to drive. I have gone a little to far on this build and spent way too much money. School is still out regarding street manners as they day after I got her back on the road I had to leave on a 4 week business trip. First impression on local roads when I drove it to storage was certainly no more responsive in the lower RPM range than my 427.