C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Sep 10, 2006 | 11:16 PM
  #21  
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Cherry red with an acetylene torch works for me.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 07:05 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jdmick
Cherry red with an acetylene torch works for me.
the old "blue tip" wrench
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 08:23 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mapman
Kroil is better and available from several dealers. Do a Google search on "Kroil"


I use several of the Kroil products and they are all great!
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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Point is simple. They work, and there are a lot that do a great job. Maybe P B or Sea Foam, the key is time. Spray the bolt or nut in question, and walk away for a day, and spray again and walk away fro another day. Don't expect to saturate it and get the nut off after five minutes. Time is the key.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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A way to free up siezed fasteners which I have used for years is the 'smack-it' method. Use two hammers (or similar heavy objects) hold one against one side of the nut and smack the opposite side with a resounding blow. This momentarily 'ovals' the nut, breaking the rust bond. You have to learn how to guage how hard to hit different size nuts, and be sure to get a good square impact: you don't want to damage the nut or permanently deform it. Go around the nut flat by flat smacking it. Even if it doesn't break loose this will help the goober juice penetrate better. I only use heat as a last resort.
And P.B. Blaster is my penetrating oil of choice, at least for now.
John
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:07 AM
  #26  
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Kroil is available in spray cans and gallon cans from Eastwood Co.
Eddie
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Edzred72
Kroil is available in spray cans and gallon cans from Eastwood Co.
Eddie

Gallon cans? Yikes that's for people who have NOTHING but rusty bolts huh? Could just dip the entire Model A into the stuff and THEN take it apart...
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JPhil
you don't want to damage the nut or permanently deform it. Go around the nut flat by flat smacking it.
If a fastener is that rusty, it's going in the trash can once I get it apart.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
If a fastener is that rusty, it's going in the trash can once I get it apart.

True dat...
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
If a fastener is that rusty, it's going in the trash can once I get it apart.
Actually, what I meant is to not deform the nut to where you can't remove it due to it now being squashed or having f**ked up flats....

John
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:12 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JPhil
Actually, what I meant is to not deform the nut to where you can't remove it due to it now being squashed or having f**ked up flats....

John

Usually by the time I get a hammer invloved with fastener removal, I'm past the point of trying to be civil with it, and by then it's already rounded and a grinder is next in line after the hammer's done...
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:33 PM
  #32  
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"Smoke Wrench" till it is cherry red then hit it with PB Blaster. Use that and something is sure to give.

Might not be the threads but something will definately let go.

-Mark.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:35 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by stingr69
"Smoke Wrench" till it is cherry red then hit it with PB Blaster. Use that and something is sure to give.

Might not be the threads but something will definately let go.

-Mark.

Like lunch. Have you smelled burned P B Blast? It's enough to gag a maggot.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:40 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by stingr69
"Smoke Wrench" till it is cherry red then hit it with PB Blaster.
I think the Surgeon General estimated lung cancer usually develops within 6 months after this procedure. So cold PB Blaster doesn't smell enough for you. I've done this with skunk ****, otherwise known as WD40 but the fumes are tolerable.
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 02:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jdmick
I think the Surgeon General estimated lung cancer usually develops within 6 months after this procedure. So cold PB Blaster doesn't smell enough for you. I've done this with skunk ****, otherwise known as WD40 but the fumes are tolerable.

I kinda like the smell of PB cold man. Hot it's like something totally different.
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Old Oct 7, 2006 | 10:40 PM
  #36  
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I've been playing airplane for 20+ years and the very best thing I've found for rusty bolt/nuts/shafts is Hoppe's #9 gun solvent. Get it at the local Wally-World. If had stuff come loose that WD, Kroil, and everyother thing we tried didn't touch. A good dose of the #9 and it came loose.
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