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Heat/sound Deadener

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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 12:35 PM
  #1  
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Default Heat/sound Deadener

I searched for a post, I found similar but not exactly what I'm looking for........

I’m looking for the cheapest, most effective way to eliminate sound and heat from the cabin of the car. Dynomat is priced really high, and I would spend a ton doing the entire interior. Is there a cheaper (brand) or alternative. If you reply, give an estimate of home much time/money you spent on your particular method. And pictures are alway great!

Thanks!
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:41 PM
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Look at this forum thread. There is a reference/link to a study comparing sound and heat barriers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t=heat+barrier

Last edited by 71rdster; Sep 18, 2006 at 10:01 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Based on the recommendation from that site, I'm planning to use this stuff: http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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I recently received my order from RAAMaudio.
1 roll of RAAMmat BXT™ 62.5 sq/ft
2 yards of Ensolite™ MLC

I plan on doing the doors with the BXT and Ensolite. Then start at the back of the car and cover what I can until I run out of material.

Last edited by MIKER; Sep 17, 2006 at 02:05 PM.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 02:05 PM
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this what i used in mine, big diff in sound, never had a heat problem w/sidepipes. check it out
http://www.insulation4less.com/highr_FfmF.asp
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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Best alternative [considering cost, performance, etc.] is Reflectix. You get it in a 4' wide roll x 25' long in the building materials section of Home Depot.... $20 will do the whole car. Buy the spray on glue for drywall corner beading (on the same row in Home Depot) and a couple of small rolls of aluminum duct tape (the metal stuff). It is easy to work with and can be done in a day. Pay particular attention to all the areas on the transmission tunnel--cover every area of it. You'll be amazed at how much cooler the interior stays and how much quieter is rides with the windows up.

7T1Vette
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Default 7T1vette idea

Well, right now 7T1vette's idea seems like the most affordiable. I think that I will start here and make chages as necessary. Thanks for all the help guys!

Anybody else do it this way?

Thanks again!

UHvette
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 08:57 PM
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you also should get a roll of exhaust wrap and do the exhaust from the back about even with the diff forward to the manifold. I would recommend if you have headers to wrap them too, that will keep the heat in the pipes and not let it radiate into the bottom of the car.
Have you installed a coolant cutoff for the heater yet? You need that.
Also check out the door in the kickpanel on the pass side, make sure it closes all the way.
Last thing is all the holes in the firewall, make sure they are closed up
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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I'm planning on installing some KoolMat between the exhaust pipes and the underside of the floorpan. http://www.koolmat.com/main.htm Go to the "Bulk Pricing" link on the lower left. It costs $10-$14 per square foot.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 12:14 AM
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Default coolant cutoff for the heater?

I'm not sure exactly what your talking about here....can you explain.

"coolant cutoff for the heater"

Are you talking about putting a cutoff valve in the line that goes to the heater core??

Also, I'm going to try to create a tech article with pics of this whole process. I'm taking suggestions on the name, something like "Keep sound and heat out for under $75"...something like that (hopefully the whole thing can be done for under $75 or maybe even $50. I will go threw all steps to make sure the heat will stay out. This will be the so called "Car Craft" version as opposed to the "Hot Rod" deep pocket version. Any thing that should be check or something you think would help...post or email (pm) me. Thanks!

UHvette
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 01:36 AM
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Reflectix will kill heat, but it isn't a sound deadener.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 02:03 AM
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I use this stuff in my blazer. http://www.edesignaudio.com/edv2/pro...products_id=52

I am planning on using it in my vette. Works great. Priced Nice.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 08:26 AM
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Reflectix is not sold as a sound deadener because it is intended to insulate crawl spaces. It does, however, provide a flexible, air-gap membrane that somewhat inhibits noise. I installed it in mine and it is quieter (in addition to being one heck of a lot cooler).
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by uhvette
I'm not sure exactly what your talking about here....can you explain.

"coolant cutoff for the heater"

Are you talking about putting a cutoff valve in the line that goes to the heater core??

Also, I'm going to try to create a tech article with pics of this whole process. I'm taking suggestions on the name, something like "Keep sound and heat out for under $75"...something like that (hopefully the whole thing can be done for under $75 or maybe even $50. I will go threw all steps to make sure the heat will stay out. This will be the so called "Car Craft" version as opposed to the "Hot Rod" deep pocket version. Any thing that should be check or something you think would help...post or email (pm) me. Thanks!

UHvette
Thats exactly what I am talking about. The AC system the way its designed lets coolant flow thru the heater core all the time on older c3's and most of the time in late c3's/ My 81 and some other years have a vac operated valve in the heater line from the intake to the heater core, it cuts off the hot coolant when the AC is on high. I am going to modify mine to cut it off unless the heat is on(won't heppen much here in S Fla), The problem is your mixing heated air with the AC all the time, the system will never cool well like this.
If your car was not delivered with this valve, yoou can simply install a 5/8" ball valve from Home Depot for $7, its in the plumbing section. Some tout a valve on both hoses, but one on the supply side will suffice.
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Old Sep 18, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Im probably going to go with this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NUPRE...spagenameZWDVW
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