What pickle forks?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
What pickle forks?
Hi guys, I'm gonna buy some pickle forks for when I do my front end. I can get a kit that has 1-1/8", 15/16", and 11/16" sizes. Is that enough to do the front end? Also, I've never heard of the brand OTC Stinger. Can anyone tell me if that brand forks will do the job or am I buying heat treated play doh?
As usual, all help is appreciated
As usual, all help is appreciated
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by mkflanagan
I tried the pickle fork on mine and it didn't work,get a pitman arm remover,it worked perfect for getting my ball joints loose.
You just needs a bigger hammer...or a heavier swing.
Mine were practically WELDED in place, and a cheap Oreilly fork broke mine loose.Saudi - That kit should handle all your joint needs just fine. Remember that the coil spring is your friend when taking down ball joints...let it help push. Take the shock out for better extension, but make sure the lower a-arm is supported before you let her rip. That spring can do a lot of damage if it comes flinging out.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
You just needs a bigger hammer...or a heavier swing. Mine were practically WELDED in place, and a cheap Oreilly fork broke mine loose.
Saudi - That kit should handle all your joint needs just fine. Remember that the coil spring is your friend when taking down ball joints...let it help push. Take the shock out for better extension, but make sure the lower a-arm is supported before you let her rip. That spring can do a lot of damage if it comes flinging out.
Mine were practically WELDED in place, and a cheap Oreilly fork broke mine loose.Saudi - That kit should handle all your joint needs just fine. Remember that the coil spring is your friend when taking down ball joints...let it help push. Take the shock out for better extension, but make sure the lower a-arm is supported before you let her rip. That spring can do a lot of damage if it comes flinging out.
If you are doing the whole magilla go ahead and get the Pitman arm puller as well, its a one time per car use (hopefully) but you will be glad you have it when replacing the pitman arm
Oh yeah and dont forget the BFH
.02
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by sweethence
If you are doing the whole magilla go ahead and get the Pitman arm puller as well, its a one time per car use (hopefully) but you will be glad you have it when replacing the pitman arm
Oh yeah and dont forget the BFH
.02
That's true. I never replaced my pitman arm so I can't speak for that aspect of the work...but I did just finish replacing EVERYTHING else, and can walk you through it step by step.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
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From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Ok, thanks guys. I saw the pickle fork set on eBay but as I'm not going to start the job until I come back from vacation, I may as well pick up a kit at home and save myself the shipping. I'll be sure to grab a pitman arm puller too, especially as I'll be doing the Jeep box mod too...
Thanks again everyone and I'll hold you to that Durango_boy - I've done very little front end work before and may need my hand held
Thanks again everyone and I'll hold you to that Durango_boy - I've done very little front end work before and may need my hand held
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
Likes: 7
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
That's true. I never replaced my pitman arm so I can't speak for that aspect of the work...but I did just finish replacing EVERYTHING else, and can walk you through it step by step.
I would rather you come up and help
ill do the drivers side and you can do the passenger side, well keep the brews in the frontCall it dueling gearheads winner gets a free summit hat
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,319
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From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by saudivette
Ok, thanks guys. I saw the pickle fork set on eBay but as I'm not going to start the job until I come back from vacation, I may as well pick up a kit at home and save myself the shipping. I'll be sure to grab a pitman arm puller too, especially as I'll be doing the Jeep box mod too...
Thanks again everyone and I'll hold you to that Durango_boy - I've done very little front end work before and may need my hand held
Thanks again everyone and I'll hold you to that Durango_boy - I've done very little front end work before and may need my hand held
The team stands ready to tell you what to do, buy, and drink depending on the circumstances
j/Kpost up when your ready, we'll get you through it
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by sweethence
I would rather you come up and help ill do the drivers side and you can do the passenger side, well keep the brews in the front
Call it dueling gearheads winner gets a free summit hat
ill do the drivers side and you can do the passenger side, well keep the brews in the frontCall it dueling gearheads winner gets a free summit hat
I'd love to help, but from me to NY is about a 24 hour drive straight. Obviously stopping for gas and food...I made that drive to New Hampshire, and it took 23 hours to NY. Man that drive sucked. Otherwise...I'm there man.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
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From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Originally Posted by sweethence
...and drink...
Originally Posted by sweethence
post up when your ready, we'll get you through it
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by saudivette
Damn, Saudi's a dry country. Does that effect the outcome of the job?
Personally I don't like to get started on a big project in the garage unless I have some beer in the fridge and some chicken on the grill. A buddy handing me wrenches and a girlfriend calling to say she loves me. That's a perfect way to handle ANY big job on the Vette and I stand by that.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Pickle forks suck. A lever remover is the best way to bust loose ball joints and tie rod ends.
It's the one on the left:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...Ntt=ball+joint
I have a Harbor Freight version and it's never failed me. Unfortunately, HF has quit selling them.
It's the one on the left:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...Ntt=ball+joint
I have a Harbor Freight version and it's never failed me. Unfortunately, HF has quit selling them.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
I have a Harbor Freight version and it's never failed me. Unfortunately, HF has quit selling them.
It didn't fail me either. It helped me with two ball joints and a tie rod end.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
It's "bubba" to use a pickle fork on the pitman arm and the PS control valve... you side load the gear box internals when you whack either of them with your BFH and a pickle fork.
Will it work?
Well... yeh... maybe... sometimes.
Will it damage your gear box?
Well... yeh... most definitely... every time.
Use a puller for both of them.
OTC does make one that works.
There are other manufacturers as well.
Will it work?
Well... yeh... maybe... sometimes.
Will it damage your gear box?
Well... yeh... most definitely... every time.
Use a puller for both of them.
OTC does make one that works.
There are other manufacturers as well.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,334
Likes: 4
From: Midland TX
I borrowed a pickle fork from Auto Zone. Didn't cost a thing.
I could not get one of the upper ball joints loose and I found a procedure in the Chevy Service Manual how to break them loose using a socket, nut, and bolt.
Check out my website http://www.thespark.us Go to suspension > front suspension for a picture of the setup.
I could not get one of the upper ball joints loose and I found a procedure in the Chevy Service Manual how to break them loose using a socket, nut, and bolt.
Check out my website http://www.thespark.us Go to suspension > front suspension for a picture of the setup.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,408
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From: Redondo Beach, California
A pickle fork powered by a pneumatic air impact hammer will really make a lot of suspension stuff just instantaniously fall apart. (Experience with my 68, although it really had no rust to mention.)
Air compressors and impact hammers are not that expensive.
You'll need a Pitarm remover. Before you start work, get a socket for the Pitman arm nut. It's a big socket and depending upon where you are, you may have to order that by mail. A torque wrench will be a good idea when you re-install the pitman arm nut and some of the other suspension parts. Properly torquing these parts is probably a good safety procedure.
Air compressors and impact hammers are not that expensive.
You'll need a Pitarm remover. Before you start work, get a socket for the Pitman arm nut. It's a big socket and depending upon where you are, you may have to order that by mail. A torque wrench will be a good idea when you re-install the pitman arm nut and some of the other suspension parts. Properly torquing these parts is probably a good safety procedure.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
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From: Columbia Missouri
Saudi - A quick note, as I made this silly mistake. The ball joints are riveted from teh factory. Depending on if these have been changed before on your car, you may have to GRIND the rivets off. This can be tricky and time consuming...assuming you have access to a grinder and a cutoff wheel.
Same with the bottom...take of the upper trunk nut, and the rivets would be on the a-arm, on the surface facing you, and on either side.
Now, IF someone changed them before you and installed correct ball joints, you will only have to remove a few nuts and bolts. NOTE: Remove the nuts and bolts before you start hammering at them with a pickle fork or a puller. Ask me how I know...
No wait...it's embarrassing so please don't.
Same with the bottom...take of the upper trunk nut, and the rivets would be on the a-arm, on the surface facing you, and on either side.
Now, IF someone changed them before you and installed correct ball joints, you will only have to remove a few nuts and bolts. NOTE: Remove the nuts and bolts before you start hammering at them with a pickle fork or a puller. Ask me how I know...
No wait...it's embarrassing so please don't.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
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From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
...NOTE: Remove the nuts and bolts before you start hammering at them with a pickle fork or a puller. Ask me how I know...
No wait...it's embarrassing so please don't.
No wait...it's embarrassing so please don't.
I'll want to incorporate my Jeep box install at the same time and maybe even Hydroboost - WOW that would mean that the car steers where I want it to and stops when I want it to.Thanks everyone else for the input. All points have been duly noted and my Snap-On kit will expand accordingly!