upper trailing arm bushing
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Midland Texas
upper trailing arm bushing
Hey all!
just got my vette back together and now I have a new problem.. The upper trailing arm bushing on the pass. side is gone..
I was wondering if there was anyway to replace this bushing without a major disassembly of the suspension. Has anyone ever just dropped the front end of the trailing arm and pressed in the bushing under the car? Every suspension shop is weary of working on these years for pita problems and all the parts that break or corrode and will need to be replaced.
I just want to fix it and will go back and do a complete rear suspension rebuild in the future. I just put a 330 hp 350 in it and would like to enjoy it before it gets too cold.
Thanks a million!
Mechaniac
just got my vette back together and now I have a new problem.. The upper trailing arm bushing on the pass. side is gone..
I was wondering if there was anyway to replace this bushing without a major disassembly of the suspension. Has anyone ever just dropped the front end of the trailing arm and pressed in the bushing under the car? Every suspension shop is weary of working on these years for pita problems and all the parts that break or corrode and will need to be replaced.
I just want to fix it and will go back and do a complete rear suspension rebuild in the future. I just put a 330 hp 350 in it and would like to enjoy it before it gets too cold.
Thanks a million!
Mechaniac
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
yea you can do that. I am assuming your talking aout the control arm. Put the front up on stands, block up the lower control arm, seperate the upper ball joint, unbolt the control arm
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 2
From: Long Island New York
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
yea you can do that. I am assuming your talking aout the control arm. Put the front up on stands, block up the lower control arm, seperate the upper ball joint, unbolt the control arm
Last edited by Glassbowtie77; Oct 8, 2006 at 09:15 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Midland Texas
Yes I am talking bout the rear suspension. I was hoping I could buy the bushing tool, loosen the rear suspension or remove some of it and just bring the mount down low enough to press in the new bushing assembly, push back up into location, shim it and bolt it up. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Any one ever try a quick not to invasive repair like this?
Thanks!
mechaniac
Any one ever try a quick not to invasive repair like this?
Thanks!
mechaniac
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
I would think that it would be possible to do this, but getting the TA bolt undone is usually the hardest part of the rear suspension disassembly. Once this is out, the only other significant bolts that have to come out are the shock mount and spring bolt. I had to whack pretty hard with a big hammer to peen over the TA bushing pin while it was in the tool, and I think it would be more difficult to do this if the pin is parallel to the ground than if you can lay the TA flat on the ground. Your call, though.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 1
From: Naperville IL
once you get the pivot bolt out you're more than half way there as far as removing the arm is concerned. The shock mounts can be a real pain, but you might be able to remove the strut rod bolt at the center bracket and pull the whole thing out that way, replace the bushing, and put it back in. I personally wouldn't want to take out the pivot bolt with the spring still attatched, but others may disagree. If you're putting in new rubber bushings I think you're still gonna need a press to do it right anyway.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 918
Likes: 5
From: Gainesville FL
Originally Posted by chris73cpe
The shock mounts can be a real pain...
Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 627
Likes: 1
From: Naperville IL
Originally Posted by Vette Gator
If you have access to a machine shop, you can take some 1" steel rod and drill and tap this to mach the shock mount thread. Make sure that the end of the rod rests on the "shoulder" of the shock mount and use the BFH to knock it out. Corvette Central sells essentially the same tool if it's not easy for you to to make it (or have it made). Don't beat on the end of the shock mount directly with a hammer or you will be buying a new shock mount. Don't ask me why I can say this with great confidence.
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Vette Gator
If you have access to a machine shop, you can take some 1" steel rod and drill and tap this to mach the shock mount thread. Make sure that the end of the rod rests on the "shoulder" of the shock mount and use the BFH to knock it out. Corvette Central sells essentially the same tool if it's not easy for you to to make it (or have it made). Don't beat on the end of the shock mount directly with a hammer or you will be buying a new shock mount. Don't ask me why I can say this with great confidence.
Last edited by I'm Batman; Oct 9, 2006 at 12:49 AM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Midland Texas
Thanks guys!
Gives me a direction and hope.. Couldn't ask for more unless..somebody wanted to come over and do it for me...but what are the chances of that right..
Thanks a million!
Eric
Gives me a direction and hope.. Couldn't ask for more unless..somebody wanted to come over and do it for me...but what are the chances of that right..
Thanks a million!
Eric
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
I would just go ahead and remove the Trailing Arm to do this, no good reason to try and wrastle this thing around under the car. Like someone posted above the TA Pivot bolt is the hard one, after that its just a shock mount, u-joint and spring bolt. If the lower shock mount is stubborn take it loose at the top.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
I don't think there is an easy way out. There have been numerous times when I tried to take a different approach to do a job and wind up removing the item the way it should be. All I did was spin my wheels and waste time.
If you are able to replace it by removing only a minimal amount of components, the better off you'll be. The more that is removed the bigger the job. The little things like a brake line fitting being rounded off add to the aggervation and expense. VB&P has a poly bushing kit that is easy to install for the front of the trailing arm. It does need to be flared but is done with a nut and bolt which they supply in the kit.
If you are able to replace it by removing only a minimal amount of components, the better off you'll be. The more that is removed the bigger the job. The little things like a brake line fitting being rounded off add to the aggervation and expense. VB&P has a poly bushing kit that is easy to install for the front of the trailing arm. It does need to be flared but is done with a nut and bolt which they supply in the kit.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Midland Texas
under car kit from VBandP!
Just thought I'd let you all know that I found a Polyurethane bushing kit @ VBandP that they claim can be done on the car! 59.00 and it comes with a shouldered bolt that will ferrule the ends of the bushing pin. I should have it in in a few days and the opportunity to work on it in a few weeks. I'll let you know how it goes. I sure hope it works..I may do both sides now if it works like they claim..
Thanks to all for your responses.
Eric
Thanks to all for your responses.
Eric
