I just finished installing new stock heads on my 79 vette (due to a bolt going into coolant from manifold) and used same intake, repainted both heads and Intake. Put Carb on as it was, just sprayed down with 2+2 carb cleaner. All vacuum line put back as they were prior to removal. Used new gaskets, bolts, plugs, wires and placed distributor back in same position as it was before it came out (new distributor put it and was working normal prior to head removal). I tightened all bolts to specs for Chevy 350. I used the following specs for Valve lash:
ADJUSTMENT
1. Rotate crankshaft until mark on torsional damper aligns with center or "O" mark on timing tab, attached to crankcase front cover, and piston of No. 1 cylinder is at top dead center of compression stroke. This may be determined by placing fingers on the valves for No. 1 cylinder as timing mark on damper nears the "O" mark on front cover. If valves do not move, engine is in the No. 1 firing position. If valves move, the engine is in the No. 6 firing position and should be rotated an additional revolution. - 2v With valves in No. 1 firing position, adjust exhaust valves 1,3,4 and 8, and intake valves 1,2,5 and 7 as described in step 3.
3. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at pushrod, then turn adjusting nut inward until all lash is removed. When all lash has been removed, turn adjusting nut in additional one turn. Zero lash can be determined by rotating pushrod while turning and adjusting nut.
4. Rot&e crankshaft one revolution, until pointer "O" mark and torsional damper mark are aligned. With engine in this position, adjust exhaust valves 2, 5,6 and 7 and intake valves 3,4,6 and 8.
5. Install rocker arm covers, then start engine and check idle speed and ignition timing.

Car sputters , but will not start. If gas builds up in carb a small backfire will happen here and there. Also, I noticed a higher pitched sound when trying to turnover. I checked firing order via Chilton and all wires are correctly placed. Could the valves be to tight? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

It almost sounds like your distributor is 180 off. When you are on #1 tdc, both valves should be closed.

 

that was my first thought. that happens alot. pull the left side valve cover off and rotate the engine to where the balancer is back to '0' AND both valves are completely closed. pop off the cap and observe. the rotor should be pointing (more or less) at #1 cylinder. if it's pointing at the firewall, redrop 180*.
of course, the other option is that the distributor is close but just didn't drop in line.
this is also common since you rotated the motor without turning the oil pump. do the same check as above but if it is pointing semi close to #1 (as in pointing toward the master cylinder or straight ahead), you will need to remove the dizzy and use a long screw driver on the pump drive to turn it backwards or forwards to get you closer to the correct position. just remember that because of the cut of the distributor gear, you will have to compensate for it turning during reinstallation.
hope it helps.

 

 

been there once

 

Thanks to all. I think the problem was not only was dist. off TDC, but when I lashed the valves they were done out of TDC. Once I loosened the valves and double checked dist. the engine fired up, rough, but running. Now to smooth things out. Thanks again.