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Chuck - That set screw has no taper which means it can't just 'tighten.' It has to have a thread lock applied to it to keep it from coming out. Just tightening it like that is a fix but it may very well work it's way back out again.
I would suggest getting a tube of high temp thread lock, and gooping it pretty good. Then install it again to flush or one thread deep. That'll ensure it doesn't come back out.
Glad to hear it wasn't a head gasket.
Has the motor quieted down any?
It had plenty of thread lock from the factory, just never tightned.
Should not be any valve train noise on startup... roller rockers? are they hitting the oil drips on the inside of the valve covers? are you using CC 1320's ?
I am behind the camera, the guy tuning the carb has worked for me for 30 years. Started when I had a Exxon station/garage and then went to my junk yard and then used car lots and now just what ever I need, at one of the rest, house, event facility, what ever. I am ASE certified in all fields, gas and diesel. Paul
I am behind the camera, the guy tuning the carb has worked for me for 30 years. Started when I had a Exxon station/garage and then went to my junk yard and then used car lots and now just what ever I need, at one of the rest, house, event facility, what ever. I am ASE certified in all fields, gas and diesel. Paul
It's really cool to have soemone like that by your side for the fun projects. I looked at that vid again...and WOW...that...engine...sounds...amazing!! !
Say, I've been following your issues with the start-up of your 502 crate engine. I've been thinking about putting a 502 in my 68 convertable. It originally came with the 427 (435 hp) engine, but I don't have it now.
The 502 sounded nice, but wanted to know what modifications you had to make for your '69. Did it drop right in?? Same motor mounts?? How about the headers your using? I have a Muncie M21 transmission and was planning to use it. Your thoughts???
Say, I've been following your issues with the start-up of your 502 crate engine. I've been thinking about putting a 502 in my 68 convertable. It originally came with the 427 (435 hp) engine, but I don't have it now.
The 502 sounded nice, but wanted to know what modifications you had to make for your '69. Did it drop right in?? Same motor mounts?? How about the headers your using? I have a Muncie M21 transmission and was planning to use it. Your thoughts???
I am also thinking seriously about dropping a ZZ502 in my 74 auto. coupe to replace its tired but numbers-matching LS4, and would be interested in knowing about what issues or problems you ran into. Someone on this forum brought up the oil pan, and that the ground clearance might be a little low with the pan that comes on the ZZ. What oil pan are you guys, TEXASRANGER and grezmnky1, running?
I am also thinking seriously about dropping a ZZ502 in my 74 auto. coupe to replace its tired but numbers-matching LS4, and would be interested in knowing about what issues or problems you ran into. Someone on this forum brought up the oil pan, and that the ground clearance might be a little low with the pan that comes on the ZZ. What oil pan are you guys, TEXASRANGER and grezmnky1, running?
I think with that engine you'd want an aftermarket pan anyway...for a lot of reasons. Baffles...capacity, cooling...on and on.
The BBC and SBC share belhousing and motor mount dimensions, the dimension that drives every thing else is cylinder bore center spacing.
A SBC to BBC swap is easy !!
The pan on zz502/502RJ is 7 quarts, another quart for the filter and in my case almost another 2 for the cooler and lines, 10 quarts ought to be enough.
Some have pan clearnce problems I did not.
You just need to be careful with lower capacity pans and EXTENDED high RPM running as it could be possible to it unport the oil pickup when you add in the high volume pump.
I have 8" deep pan in my 396 - you can just fit a 565 in a 8" pan also - thats 4.5 bore and around 4.3 stroke - and definitely I would get large ground clearance problems if I had deeper than 8" pan...