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Finally got to the start point, which is good. Primed it like they said, and yes its full of oil. Could never get any pressure on the gauge (factory with new sending unit) Pulled dist and re-primed. Feel confident that chevy would assemble correct!!
Turn on the elect fuel pump and start it up. It runs but still not getting any pressure on the gauge. It makes a pretty good noise in the valve train. Not a noise like it not getting oil, just really noisy. I was told it might take 10 min to quite down?? I am going to buy a mechanical gage tonight and hook up.
When you primed it, were you spinning it clockwise?
It shouldn't be that noisy, the lifters should quite down after 10 seconds. I wouldn't run it again without a known good gauge.
I'd be a little worried too but you may be too concearned. The gauge may be a bad apple or connected wrong.
The noise may be parts seating.
The gauge is the first step. Then, try it and see if you have pressure. If not, there's a big problem and that has to be sorted out before starting again.
If it works fine, let it run for a few minutes and see if it quiets down. Break ins can be heck on the nerves.
If it doesn't quiet down, pull the valve covers and see if anything is amis. Maybe turn it with no spark with the covers off and watch for all your valves. Check there height and depth.
After you have primed the pump whip off one of the rocker covers you should see oil up there (coming up the push rods). If you don't see anything don't start it! you may have a pump or pickup problem.
Oil pressure for 2 minutes and rotate the crank 360 slowly to get oil in the top end.
I did it twice with a mechanical gauge. I agree with those who said don't run it again with out a guage... A water pressure or air pressure gauge will work just to see if you have pressure.
I can here the conversation now...
GM: "did you prime the engine as specified in the installation manual before attemting to start?; What was the oil pressure reading?"
You say "Um...... Well..... It's like this.... See.... There I was minding my own business when..."
recently got the 502 in the 69 up and running,it a gm crate zz502,and although i had a mechanical guage reading good pressure it was a little noisy for the first few minutes.after shutting it down and confirming oil and coolant started it back up and the noise went away within a few minutes.my guage sender is plugged into one of the 2 extra ports on the bottom of the engie,along with the fuel pump shut off switch,let us know what you find when you get the guage installed.I have spent years at a previous job, doing nothing but big block gm warranty engine replacements.its wasnt uncommon to have a brand new engine fail,well worth it to hook up the mechanical guage for peace of mind
What did you use to prime?
Before I start my engines is to pull valve covers off and prime with a drill untill you see oil out of rockers,and I hook up a oil pressure gauge to read psi,that way the motor is lubed and ready to fire,
Maybe somebody forgot to install the rod that goes between the dist and oil pump,check that out!
OK, I am trying to get my nerves settled down. I went to the parts store and purchased a cheap gauge. Going to take some strong sleep potion and try to get some sleep.
Install the gauge first thing and go from there. Thanks for the replies....
What did you use to prime?
Before I start my engines is to pull valve covers off and prime with a drill untill you see oil out of rockers,and I hook up a oil pressure gauge to read psi,that way the motor is lubed and ready to fire,
Maybe somebody forgot to install the rod that goes between the dist and oil pump,check that out!
GM sends a nice Profab? priming tool with the 502 (at least they did with the 502 RJ) and in the case of the ramjet they send a MEFI4 code scanner.
I think they have you rotate the crank to get oil to the top end as GenVI 502's have priority main oil flow. (Just a guess)
Man I can't wait to see what happens when the manual gauge is used. It's like waiting for the next episode of a good soap.
I don't think the issue is the priming unless it just wasn't done wrong. Pulling the valve covers is key to checking the oil at the rockers. If they don't have oil then starting is a BAD idea.
The 502 should NOT make that valve train noise after the first 2-3 minutes, for sure. Ensure intial pushrod adjustment is coprrect, along with a good oil reading on oil presure
OK, My gut is feeling better. I put the mechanical gauge on this AM, unpluged the dist and fuel pump and turned it over with the starter. 60 pounds in about 3 seconds.
Hooked the dist and fuel pump back up and started. 75 pounds.
Still a little more noisy than I am used to but I guess the roller rockers are more noisy.
Going back out and set the timing and let warm up and set the carb.
Crap I did not sleep at all last night.
It's SHINER BEER tonight. Hell yea I will be driving this thing by Saturday. Going to let run a hour today and then change the oil filter, do the same tomorrow and change the oil and filter and then drive a few hours Saturday and change the oil and filter again. Oil and filters are cheap compared to what I just spent. I will do a video in a few min. Thanks for all the response and I felt your concern. Paul
The driver side head gasket is leaking antifreeze.????
I called Scoggins Dickey and they said warranty was parts only??????
WTF, I thought it was the whole thing.
They recommended re-tighten to 75 pounds. I have never seen this work before, but letting cool down and will re-torque. They said would send new head gaskets........
If I have to pull the head it gonna get a hell of a lot better gasket than they put in......
The driver side head gasket is leaking antifreeze.????
I called Scoggins Dickey and they said warranty was parts only??????
WTF, I thought it was the whole thing.
They recommended re-tighten to 75 pounds. I have never seen this work before, but letting cool down and will re-torque. They said would send new head gaskets........
If I have to pull the head it gonna get a hell of a lot better gasket than they put in......
BURNING RIGHT NOW.........
It sure sounds nice though..........
Where is the coolant leaking from?
Did you seal the water jacket ports on the intake gaskets with Hi Temp silicone?
Nobody I have ever dealt with will warranty Labor.......... sorry
I hope the re tourqing the heads will help
Be sure to do it in incriments and in sequence
I was under the car taking pics of the antifreeze coming down and my oldest son says Dad, it coming out on top of the headers???? WTF
His eyes are a lot younger than mine and he see's that it is coming out of the plug where you can hook up your temp sending unit.
The MF from GM had not tightned it. It was hand tight. We tightned it up good and started it back up and HELL YEA, no more leak. What a wild ride. I am down loading a video that I will try to get up later.
Run another hour tomorrow, change oil and filter, put the carpet and seats back in am and take out Saturday. I told my wife she can use the shooting ear muff's..........Yea its loud.
Chuck - That set screw has no taper which means it can't just 'tighten.' It has to have a thread lock applied to it to keep it from coming out. Just tightening it like that is a fix but it may very well work it's way back out again.
I would suggest getting a tube of high temp thread lock, and gooping it pretty good. Then install it again to flush or one thread deep. That'll ensure it doesn't come back out.