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After hearing what sounded like a loud knocking sound, (which I have since determined is most likely a pretty good exhaust leak) I decided to pull the oil pan off and see what it was looking like.
Other than an inch or so of old dipstick in the bottom of the pan, I found nothing glaringly wrong.
I removed the windage tray and oil pump, thoght I'd post some pics of the "progress" so far.
Going to replace the headers (if I can get the #&$%@ collector bolts off), put in a hi volume oil pump and use a Fel-pro 1 piece oil pan gasket when I reassemble.
If you heard knocking you might want to pull a few bearing caps and look at the bearings. You can't see them until you pull a cap or two. You have it that far might as well check the bearings.
There was an article in I think Chevy Hi-po suggesting to NOT use a high volume oil pump in a street car. Reason was that it pumped all the oil out of the pan faster than it could drain back and would starve the engine of oil.
There was an article in I think Chevy Hi-po suggesting to NOT use a high volume oil pump in a street car. Reason was that it pumped all the oil out of the pan faster than it could drain back and would starve the engine of oil.
Yeah - I've heard that from numerous sources as well, but I've never actually known anyone to have this problem.
There was an article in I think Chevy Hi-po suggesting to NOT use a high volume oil pump in a street car. Reason was that it pumped all the oil out of the pan faster than it could drain back and would starve the engine of oil.
AND... The odds of oil pump FAILURE are much greater with a high volume pump
your motor looks way better that mine, I pulled the pan to replace the rusty timing cover. Chain was shot and the entire bottom end looke likr the bottom of that one piston you can see. Didn't have much sludge or other problems.
What happened to the (lower) dipstick tube guide? If there was none present you may want to consider installing it to keep the indicator from wrapping itself in the crank/rods. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen that happen. Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Stay away from the H.V. pumps, they place more wear and tear on the cam/distributor gears, the timing chain, and cost some valuable HP. And contrary to what many believe, they are very capable of pumping the oil supply away from the screen long enough to cause main bearing damage. I've repaired many spun mains on units with H.V. pumps and 4 quart pans. All you need on the SB's is the M55 with the Melling #98015 relief spring installed. I would also recommend modifying the lower band on the distributor housing to "spray" oil directly on the gears where they mesh. It's a very simple modification
with a small 3 corner file. The add'l oil "cools" the gears.
I would also recommend modifying the lower band on the distributor housing to "spray" oil directly on the gears where they mesh. It's a very simple modification
with a small 3 corner file. The add'l oil "cools" the gears.