Purolator PurOne filters are blue, but not as light as AC Delco blue. It's more of a "navy metallic" color.

 

Ever fried the rings that way? I've seen a few cases where the rings fell off the pistons when removed because they were heat-stretched too far.

 

Rastadr,
Most oil coolers I have seen have a valve located in the lines running to the cooler with a thermostat in them to open and close to allow oil to flow when it gets hot. Is your thermostat different and, if so, how did you hook it up?
Bernie

 

the way this one is rigged is the oil always goes to the cooler and through the filter. the thermostat turns on the fan at 175

 

Higher pressure bypass springs to account for the restriction of the lines and cooler?

on a gen VI BBC with priority mains oiling the stock springs are 11psi and for a remote oil cooler 30psi is reccomended...

on gen IV bbc I think they reccomend to use a straight 6 spring.

Just a thought///

 

I'm planning on doing this to the '76. However, is there enough room under the gas tank to add an aux trans cooler as well? You say it blows down, so I take it you have a puller fan on it. How much gap do you have between the cooler and gas tank? I also noticed you added some type of heat barrier between the two.

 

first, i noticed no difference in oil pressure at cold hot or idle. #10AN hose is 5/8th's. tons of volume, no pressure restriction at all. there is plenty of room for two coolers back there. my trans cooler is sandwiched between the ac condenser and the radiator, again, i dont want to comprimise my ac . there is one layer of dynamat on the gas tank and one layer of 3/8" insulation . home depot, hot water heater insulation material. that is covered in the aluminum with fiberglass reinforced tape. just in case im sitting still and the fan dies i wont heat up my gas too much. i did a few laps around the block with the fan off and felt the area above the cooler (about 3" space) and it was warm not hot. when i come off the highway its cooler than ambient temp as all that air is rushing by it. the little spal is so powerful that when i was on the shoulder of the highway next to the tall grass, it moves the grass 3 feet away.

 

 

Rastadr,
Thanks for the info. I have run oil coolers on british cars a lot as they need all the help they can get. I don't run a spare either, so this will work great for me. Have you thought of running metal lines between the oil filter and cooler and use short hoses to connect them together?
Bernie

 

I was gonna suggest metal lines, rubber causes too much friction and there should be a corresponding drop in pressure.
ESU

 

Can the fittings be bought at a local parts store, and added to tubing to be flared? Like making a brake line? I'd want to plumb mine with all metal lines, using flared ends and readily available fittings.

 

Yes
Brake line fittings are 45° flares
AN and JIC are 37° flares

 

And the oil filter adapter and oil cooler take 37 degree fittings, not 45 degree?

 

the filter adapter has 1/2" NPT ports and is non bypassing style. You use 2 1/2"NPT to whatever AN size hose adapters, commonly 1/2"pipe to -10 AN Same for the B&M/Long stack plate cooler, it too has 1/2" NPT ports.
Good luck doing it in steel, you will need a double flaring tool for 37 degree aircraft flares, tube nuts and tube sleeves. Doing -10 AN requires a 5/8 capable double flaring tool and a bender. I have a tool that'll do up to 1" and the required benders to do it all in stainless, it's literally thousands of dollars worth of tools just for that one job. Hose and hose ends are much cheaper. Do not even think about doing this with alu tubing.

Rastadr, how much room is there above the cooler? I would have angled the cooler and maybe installed a small duct so you won't have to fully rely on the fan, then again now you can fully influence cooling with the fan. You could buy a remote mount thermostat, mocal has them. They are very simple, they are "normally open" so oil cna flow both to and from the cooler and bypass inside the thermostat (like an X) normally with the cooler oil in the cooler it'll be denser so with the path of least restriction the oil will bypass, only when the thermostat closes the bypass oil is forced through the cooler. It's a very cimple and easy to hook up design, it can go right into those 2 parallel lines you have there. That way the oil would warm up faster.

This is a nice example of a cooler w/ duct: (although this is a trans cooler)





This is the moroso non bypassing sandwich adapter:

 

Hmm...I have some planning to do but it's on the back burner. I do have a nice and expensive double flaring tool...I'll have to look into it's capability. I don't have the bender but a buddy who designs rock crawlers has them along with a fully equipt machine shop. I imagine he has the required equipment.

 

Just make sure it's a 37 degree tool, otherwise it will not seal. Also make sure you get tube sleeves for a 37 deg flares, not 45.

I just added some pics of the moroso adapter, clearly visible are the 1/2"npt ports.

 

Right, thanks for the added pics. They do help a lot when you can see what you;re contemplating. I don't think I'm familiar with the tube sleeves you mentioned, as I'm new to making any kind of new lines save fro brake and fuel lines.

 

the cooler is at about a 25 degree anglewith the foward edge down. there is about 3" of space betweeen the cooler and the gas tank. there is no movement of the lines other than what the motor mounts let the motor move.the batwing that holds the rear is fixed to the frame and where the lines touch or come close to anything ive tie wrapped additional layers of hose to protect it. the thermostat is threaded into the cooler itself and the fan doesnt come on until after the oil gets to 175.

 

JIC flares are the same as AN flares, but an is required for aircraft and made of aluminum alloy. Automotive enthusiasts have adopted their use primarily because of the colorful anodized coatings and there are a few more swept style fittings available than in regular JIC. The threads are almost the same and people have successfully interchanged them but it is not recommended. AN fittings have a rounded thread root and JIC does not. JIC are available in steel, stainless, etc, but AN in aluminum only. AN is more expensive than JIC.

You need not double flare the hydraulic steel tubing. The proper malleable steel tubing has a working pressure of 5000psi with a JIC fitting with a single flare and tube sleeve. (See pic for a tube sleeve) The sleeve is primarily for vibration failure. You can use the proper aluminum tubing. Look at aircraft. Your engine oil pressure is less than 100psi with spikes so pressure certainly is not an issue. Your not building the space shuttle here.
You can buy hand benders for around $30.00 and a 37° flare tool for a specific size for under $100.00.
You will have a hydraulic hose supply near you and they can do the flaring for you if needed. BS with them and they will let you search their cataloges and set you up on the cheap. They will also have all types of hose and tubing available and fittings for any purpose. This also includes any Stainless tubing if you want to make fuel/brake lines. Probably a large tractor supply can do the flaring too.

Contact a hydraulic supply co and get their paper catalogue. There are litterly thousands of fittings so it can be confusing at first.
Once you get comfortable with tubing and fittings, you will find endess applications and can reduce all the clutter and expense of AN and braided hose.

You can get a sandwich adapter that has an integral oil thermostat that will bypass the cooler when the oil is too cold. It is suggested because cold oil is bad for an engine.

Here is a link to some fittings
http://catalog.forfittings.it/catalog.aspx?lang=EN

http://www.hosexpress.com/hydraulic/hydraulic.htm

37° flare tool

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/20...l/Cat07533.pdf

 

That's wonderful. Great info. Question: You mentioned that sandwich with the bypass...who makes that and where can it be found? Summit or Jegs?