The Ultimate Cooling Solution

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Oct 18, 2006 | 01:00 PM

#41

noonie

Race Director

Joined: Mar 2006

Posts: 14,112

Likes: 28

From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by Durango_boy

That's wonderful. Great info. Question: You mentioned that sandwich with the bypass...who makes that and where can it be found? Summit or Jegs?

Here

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=ear-503erl

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...mZ220006243177

These makes for a nice streamlined install

Oct 18, 2006 | 02:07 PM

#42

Durango_Boy

Team Owner

Joined: Aug 2006

Posts: 24,125

Likes: 15

From: Columbia Missouri

Quote:

Originally Posted by noonie

Here

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=ear-503erl

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...mZ220006243177

These makes for a nice streamlined install

Awesome. Thanks for thse links.

Oct 18, 2006 | 03:03 PM

#43

Twin_Turbo

Race Director

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 16,945

Likes: 9

Quote:

Originally Posted by noonie

You need not double flare the hydraulic steel tubing. The proper malleable steel tubing has a working pressure of 5000psi with a JIC fitting with a single flare and tube sleeve. (See pic for a tube sleeve) The sleeve is primarily for vibration failure. You can use the proper aluminum tubing. Look at aircraft. Your engine oil pressure is less than 100psi with spikes so pressure certainly is not an issue. Your not building the space shuttle here.
You can buy hand benders for around $30.00 and a 37° flare tool for a specific size for under $100.00.

You can ONLY use a single flare on seamless tubing, so you need to buy seamless aircraft quality aluminium tubing and support it every couple of inches to prevent fatigue failing, I however would not do it...too much vibration for aluminium, if you want to risk the chance of a line failing and all your oil spilling on the street.... If your tubing is not seamless you most definitely need a double flare. On top of that, a double flare is more durable than a single flare, even with a tube nut so you don't directly twist the flare nut against the flare cone outer surface.

Last edited by Twin_Turbo; Oct 18, 2006 at 05:24 PM.

Oct 18, 2006 | 04:02 PM

#44

tshort

Melting Slicks

Joined: Nov 2001

Posts: 2,659

Likes: 7

From: Katy (Houston) TX

CI 7-8 Veteran

Are you not in danger of keeping the oil TOO cool? Hot oil also helps get rid of water from condensation, right? I've always been told that short trips that don't get the motor fully warmed up are bad over the long haul. One reason is because the different parts (bearings, pistons, crank, etc) expand to their optimal sizes once warmed up. But also the oil warms up and gets hot enough to help curb water buildup (which can obviously cause rust). Does anyone know at what oil temperature this becomes effective?
Sure, your car might run better but is it at the cost of much shorter engine life? I'm not saying I know the answer, just bringing it up for the experts here to answer.
Darn cool setup though

Oct 18, 2006 | 04:37 PM

#45

BerniesVette

Melting Slicks

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 2,662

Likes: 8

From: Knoxville Tennessee

I am not claiming to be the expert here, but I understand the operation temp should be at 180 to effectively keep the engine clean from sludge buildup and water condensation. I know that newer cars run higher temps for better emissions.
Bernie

Oct 18, 2006 | 05:19 PM

#46

noonie

Race Director

Joined: Mar 2006

Posts: 14,112

Likes: 28

From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by BerniesVette

GM recommends an optimum oil temp of 200°

That's why it is important to use an oil thermostat that controls the flow to the cooler so that the oil keeps a min temp. The adapter below I believe opens at 180°.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...art=ear-503erl

You will find a bunch of tests out there that claim the engine wear rises quickly below180°F

Oct 18, 2006 | 05:31 PM

#47

noonie

Race Director

Joined: Mar 2006

Posts: 14,112

Likes: 28

From: Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo

You can ONLY use a single flare on seamless tubing, so you need to buy seamless aircraft quality aluminium tubing and support it every couple of inches to prevent fatigue failing, I however would not do it...too much vibration for aluminiu, if you want to risk the chace of a line failing and all your oil spilling on the street.... If your tubing is not seamless you most definitely need a double flare. On top of that,a double flare is more durable than a single flare, even with a tube nut so you don't directly twist the flare nut against the flare cone outer surface.

The seamless DOM alum tubing is 1100,3003 or 5052, the first two being half hard and 5052 being soft. It can be had for anywhere from $1.00/ft to $1.75/ft in smaller quantities. Most flare failures and splits are from the cut not being prepped properly for flaring or being torqued too tight on installation. For dia's 3/8 and less a double flare should be used.

Keep in mind that it is used for brake, fuel an hydraulic lines in aircraft and has a working pressure of up to 3000psi.

We are only talking less than 100psi for an oil cooler.

Personally, I would just go with steel hyd tubing although both are bulletproof at 100psi.

Oct 18, 2006 | 05:35 PM

#48

Twin_Turbo

Race Director

Joined: Dec 1999

Posts: 16,945

Likes: 9

I'm not talking about the system pressure, I'm talking about the flexing going on if you don't clamp it down every couple of inches or so and use a bulkhead type connection through a bracket on the inside of the frame, or any other way to secure the ends wher ethe hard line goes into a flex line. A loose section at the end with a flare/flare nut and a hose attached to it will vibrate and fail, guaranteed. Therefore steel is bettr but a proper flaring tool to be used for steel is more expensive, a cheapo chinese made one won't cut it.