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When I lift my car I noticed that the Passenger rear wheel was angled... like as if the camber was off. I know it is not the camber adjustment.
I took the wheel and moved it in and out like the rear wheel bearing were bad. I know the rear wheel bearing aren't bad.
The passanger side is fine.
I moved the wheel again looking around thinking the suspension might be loose, and I noticed the Half shaft moving... it seems the Yoke that goes into the Diff is moving in and out.
The drivers side is not doing that...
What is wrong? Is there some kind of retainer ring or something that wore out and is allowing the movment? Is this an easy fix?
First,anytime you raise the wheels in the rear off the ground they will sag due to the design of the independent rear suspension. Now for some bad news...Yes you will need to replace the rear yolk. They tend to fail over time. I would suggest that you replace both due to the fact that if one is bad the other is probably not far behind,that is assuming the driver side has not allready been replaced.
Good Luck!
Obviosly it should not have in and out movement... but what holds it in? It there some kind of ring or something? I am assuming that since the pass side has in and out movement that it will slide all the way out... Correct? What about the drivers side that does not appear to have any ina and out movement... How do you get it out?
Obviosly it should not have in and out movement... but what holds it in? It there some kind of ring or something? I am assuming that since the pass side has in and out movement that it will slide all the way out... Correct? What about the drivers side that does not appear to have any ina and out movement... How do you get it out?
There is a c clip that holds it in. To even check it the diff pumpkin has to come out. Just because it moves in and out doesn't mean it will come all the way out. Could be the end of the yoke is worn or the c clip has broken. Either way the pumpkin has to come out. Pull the cover and see what the problem is.
There is a c clip that holds it in. To even check it the diff pumpkin has to come out. Just because it moves in and out doesn't mean it will come all the way out. Could be the end of the yoke is worn or the c clip has broken. Either way the pumpkin has to come out. Pull the cover and see what the problem is.
Understood. Thanks!
What wears at the end of the yoke that would cause this?
IF the yoke does come out all the way, do I still need to take the pumpkin out to put it back in with a new c clip?
Understood. Thanks!
What wears at the end of the yoke that would cause this?
IF the yoke does come out all the way, do I still need to take the pumpkin out to put it back in with a new c clip?
I guess this sucks huh..lol
The end of the yoke itself wears where it rubs the center pin. There are hardened ones available. Yes, Still need to remove pumpkin to replace clip. Yes, it does suck.
If you have a noticable amount of endplay as you suggested you need to check the gears, bearings, etc in the differential while you have it apart. As GTR1999 told me "all that metal is going somewhere". That somewhere is into the gear oil and across all the moving parts.
If you have a noticable amount of endplay as you suggested you need to check the gears, bearings, etc in the differential while you have it apart. As GTR1999 told me "all that metal is going somewhere". That somewhere is into the gear oil and across all the moving parts.
I took the half shafts down... the drivers side yoke has no play and seems fine. The pass side however came out completely with no effort... the c-clip was completly gone.
So now I am taking the pumpkin down...
Question... the c-clips are cheap. Yokes are not cheap. How do I know if I need to get new yokes?
look at the end of the yoke. There should be a chamfer on the end and .187" from the end to the groove. If there is more then .040" change them. If you are dropping the diff replace them both.
Gary
look at the end of the yoke. There should be a chamfer on the end and .187" from the end to the groove. If there is more then .040" change them. If you are dropping the diff replace them both.
Gary
That was a little too techy... please explain There should be a chamfer on the end and .187" from the end to the groove. If there is more then .040" change them.
If I do need one Yoke I will replace both, but they are expesive, so If I don't need them I'm not getting them.
Mine has the same problem. I was told by a reputable mechanic the exact same thing, that the C clip was gone and the yoke was moving in and out freely. He also added that the time to do something about it was when the rear end was rebuilt, that I didn't need to worry about it until that point.
Mine has the same problem. I was told by a reputable mechanic the exact same thing, that the C clip was gone and the yoke was moving in and out freely. He also added that the time to do something about it was when the rear end was rebuilt, that I didn't need to worry about it until that point.
New yokes= the snap ring groove is 3/16" from the end. A chamfer is an angled machined into the end of the shaft so it is not 90*,it provides a lead in.
Here is a worn yoke in the carrier.The one on the left still has the chamfer and the one on the right is shot.
Here is that yoke after I had to grind the end to remove it.
New yokes= the snap ring groove is 3/16" from the end. A chamfer is an angled machined into the end of the shaft so it is not 90*,it provides a lead in.
Here is a worn yoke in the carrier.The one on the left still has the chamfer and the one on the right is shot.
Here is that yoke after I had to grind the end to remove it.
Great info!! THanks!
Good news is that it looks like all I might need is the c-clips... I will do the measurements later to really find out.
Also next time you check bearings, push at 3 & 9. If there is movement there than the wheel bearings should be replaced. 12 & 6 will tell you if it's side yokes.
Also next time you check bearings, push at 3 & 9. If there is movement there than the wheel bearings should be replaced. 12 & 6 will tell you if it's side yokes.
I replaced the rear bearings when I bought the car... so I knew it wasn't that. Thats when I saw the yoke not in the diff all the way.
I've found that even new yokes have some play in them. I now place shims between the spider gears and the clips to take out as much as play as possible. I have mine down to a couple of thousands. Probably not necessary for a street car, but mine is only used as an auto X car. Those yokes silding in an out make big changes in the rear camber when cornering.
Jim: That is not the right way to do it. Yes, the spider gears are shimmed, but you need to shim them so that the spiders have 1-2 thou play. The yoke play comes out to whatever (less than 0.015 if everything is right). If you shim the spiders excessively to fix yoke play the posi does not work right and the spiders can fail.