Converting from smallblock to big block
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
my 75 windshield motor does not have the pump incorporated into it and just has a cover that makes it a couple of inches thinner.
Is that the correct application for a 74? My windshield washer pump is at the bottom of the reservoir.
Is that the correct application for a 74? My windshield washer pump is at the bottom of the reservoir.
HOOK-EM HORNS
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,517
Likes: 842
From: Port Aransas, Texas Tx
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by turtlevette
my 75 windshield motor does not have the pump incorporated into it and just has a cover that makes it a couple of inches thinner.
Is that the correct application for a 74? My windshield washer pump is at the bottom of the reservoir.
Is that the correct application for a 74? My windshield washer pump is at the bottom of the reservoir.
It fits and works but it might be the wrong application. I have the one off off my parts 78, will have to look???
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Leander TX
Originally Posted by bence13_33
As far as fuel delivery you just need to make sure you are getting the fuel to the carburetor. I run the stock 3/8" fuel line from the tank to my Holley mechanical fuel pump and it feeds my 1050 dominator just fine.
Not too many snags at all. The costly part is tracking down all the big block brackets and pulleys because the small block ones will not work. With some big block motor mounts it will bolt right in. You will need to swap to a larger hood. I'm running the same halfshafts that came with my '76 Corvette. I changed the u-joints to Spicer solid u-joints and have some halfshaft loops courtesy of Norval just in case.
Whew.. I was worried that my 3/8 line will have a problem with the dual holley 600s (vacuum secondarys). Maybe it still will if I run it down the strip??I'm just finishing up my swap of an all iron 427 into my 75 with the stock T10. At the advise of others on this forum, I changed the springs (which it needed anyway). Since it was an A/C P/S car, buying these brackets and pulleys can be almost as expensive as just doing a serpentine conversion. So after almost getting hosed on a purchase of used stock pulleys and brackets (money sent, pulleys never received - got my money back almost 1yr later).. I went bought a march serpentine conversion. If you don't need it stock looking and would buy new parts anyway, this is the way to go. No clearence issues and the brackets do not need to tie into the exaust bolts (so no shimming or spacers). No distributor issues, but I went with a MSD ready to run HEI, because the 2 x 4bb setup wouldn't have enough room for the stock HEI. I can see where the non movable bracket would be an issue for a trans swap, but putting in the trans and motor together was no problem. I'm also using ceramic coated hedman's side pipe headers which fit beautifully. I'd do it again.. (ok "will" do it again..
)
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by iree75
I can see where the non movable bracket would be an issue for a trans swap, but putting in the trans and motor together was no problem. I'm also using ceramic coated hedman's side pipe headers which fit beautifully. I'd do it again.. (ok "will" do it again.. )
)The biggest issue with the cross member being welded is not really the install unless the spacing is off. The real problems come in later when a clutch is being replaced, or work needs to be done to the trans. The engine has to come out to do any of that.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Ankeny Iowa
I'm still in the planning stages, but i'm about to tackle a new project.
I would like to buy a 69-72 corvette with a 350/4spd combo, and convert it to a 454. I don't care about having a #'s matching car, I just want something that is fast & cool looking. My plan is to buy a pristine 350/4spd car. If I get lucky, I'll be able to find one with a poor running 350. That way I can get a better price on the car, and not have any worries, since I'm chucking the 350 anyways.
Now the truth
I'm actually helping out a friend with the swap, and he is giving me the old 350 as payment. Are the blocks from those years good quality?
That doesn't match. I really don't agree that you need to lie to get some free answers. I'm glad I didn't give you any advise. Are you trying to sell anything in the seller area ? I hope not because I'm sure someone would'nt recieve what they paid you.
I would like to buy a 69-72 corvette with a 350/4spd combo, and convert it to a 454. I don't care about having a #'s matching car, I just want something that is fast & cool looking. My plan is to buy a pristine 350/4spd car. If I get lucky, I'll be able to find one with a poor running 350. That way I can get a better price on the car, and not have any worries, since I'm chucking the 350 anyways.
Now the truth
I'm actually helping out a friend with the swap, and he is giving me the old 350 as payment. Are the blocks from those years good quality?
That doesn't match. I really don't agree that you need to lie to get some free answers. I'm glad I didn't give you any advise. Are you trying to sell anything in the seller area ? I hope not because I'm sure someone would'nt recieve what they paid you.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Malice 1
Hey thanks. Is there any kind of book or guide that I could buy? I'm sure this is a common swap, and I don't want to post a thread every time I have a problem.
Originally Posted by Malice 1
I'm actually helping out a friend with the swap, and he is giving me the old 350 as payment. Are the blocks from those years good quality?
Who exactly is buying the Vette for the small block to big block swap? You or your friend?
Dishonesty, misleading, or false statements will only get you shunned here.
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Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 26
From: Clymer PA
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
The biggest issue with the cross member being welded is not really the install unless the spacing is off. The real problems come in later when a clutch is being replaced, or work needs to be done to the trans. The engine has to come out to do any of that.
HOOK-EM HORNS
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,517
Likes: 842
From: Port Aransas, Texas Tx
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by bence13_33
This is not true. I do not have a removable crossmember in my '76 and you do not have to move/remove the motor to adjust or replace the clutch. I can remove the transmission and adjust/replace the clutch with the motor still in the vehicle.
I am not saying it can't be done with the TKO but I would pull the engine up as it would be eaiser in the long run.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 26
From: Clymer PA
I have a Super T10 4 speed. I thought you were talking about any manual transmission. With the TKO you would definitely need a removable crossmember for sanity purposes. You can always make a crossmember removable if you you want to. I wish mine was removable just in case I ever decide to go the automatic route.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by bence13_33
I have a Super T10 4 speed. I thought you were talking about any manual transmission. With the TKO you would definitely need a removable crossmember for sanity purposes. You can always make a crossmember removable if you you want to. I wish mine was removable just in case I ever decide to go the automatic route.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 26,679
Likes: 17
From: This vette goes to 11 Milford MA
St. Jude Donor '03-'05
When I dropped the 454 in my 75, I ran the Edelbrock Torker II intake with a drop base and banjo fitting to clear the hood. I used the original Super T-10, starter and bellhousing. I had to add headers and make intermediate pipes. The full bracket/pulley set from Paragon, a 74 power steering pump, and a 454 flywheel. I also switched to a 4 core radiator and dual flex-a-lites for cooling with no mechanical fanOn 75 and up, wiper motor is out of the way since they came wih HEI's.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,506
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Originally Posted by bence13_33
This is not true. I do not have a removable crossmember in my '76 and you do not have to move/remove the motor to adjust or replace the clutch. I can remove the transmission and adjust/replace the clutch with the motor still in the vehicle.
I've had my transmission out several times with the welded crossmember and without pulling the motor.That said, a removable crossmember would make things easier, but, as for buying an automatic car just to get the removable crossmember is, in my opinion just plain dumb. You can easily modify the welded crossmember to be removable for relatively no money at all. Finding and installing the pedals and linkage would be much more of a pain in the a$$.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by bashcraft
I've had my transmission out several times with the welded crossmember and without pulling the motor.That said, a removable crossmember would make things easier, but, as for buying an automatic car just to get the removable crossmember is, in my opinion just plain dumb. You can easily modify the welded crossmember to be removable for relatively no money at all. Finding and installing the pedals and linkage would be much more of a pain in the a$$.
I don't think we were saying to focus on buying an auto car, we were pointing out that if he found an auto car with a good frame, bad motor, and and auto...not to shy away from it. He plans to change the motor and trans anyway...so finding a cheap car with a removable cross member seems wise. If not, a manual with a fixed member is how he'll have to do it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,028
Likes: 2
From: North NJ
Ok I'm going to 
but for the benefit of the post...and myself....if he was to get a deal on a manual car with the welded in crossmemeber how would you make that removable? anyone have pics of the process or finished product? What is entailed in the conversion? do you buy a removable member off a parts car?
Just so we can see if this x-member is worth the trouble.
(I agree, i have removed my muncie 4spd with the x-member in place without touching engine but removable x-member would make life easier)
Install new pedals on auto.....or.....reweld x-member on manual? That is thy question!
BTW, hope YOU or UR BUDDY have a heavy piggy bank, even a run down 68-73 chrome bumper will run ya some dough...and then the bank account never sees a positive balance again....
but for the benefit of the post...and myself....if he was to get a deal on a manual car with the welded in crossmemeber how would you make that removable? anyone have pics of the process or finished product? What is entailed in the conversion? do you buy a removable member off a parts car?Just so we can see if this x-member is worth the trouble.
(I agree, i have removed my muncie 4spd with the x-member in place without touching engine but removable x-member would make life easier)
Install new pedals on auto.....or.....reweld x-member on manual? That is thy question!
BTW, hope YOU or UR BUDDY have a heavy piggy bank, even a run down 68-73 chrome bumper will run ya some dough...and then the bank account never sees a positive balance again....
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I think the cross member has to be cut and re-welded. I don't think there is a kit for a bilt on one. Obviously one could be MADE, and then bolted in after drilling holes...but I have not ever seen one.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 1
From: Nederland Texas
OK. I removed the x-member with a sawsall. Found a beefy piece of channel iron and drilled holes thru the remaining x-member stubs and slid it right in. Very easy. This was with a T-56 transzilla but I would think it would go easier with the stock 4 speed.Here's a pic.
-P
-P
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by pef427
OK. I removed the x-member with a sawsall. Found a beefy piece of channel iron and drilled holes thru the remaining x-member stubs and slid it right in. Very easy. This was with a T-56 transzilla but I would think it would go easier with the stock 4 speed.Here's a pic.
-P
-P
Very clever. Good job.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,020
Likes: 1
From: Nederland Texas
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Very clever. Good job.
I may have to let that be a winter project...wait, we don't really have a winter in Southeast Texas, so I get to keep driving!!!
-p