Installing Drag Vette Kit, Need help
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 423
Likes: 3
From: New Port Richey, FL
Installing Drag Vette Kit, Need help
I got a new Drag vette kit, but I can't get the old strut rods off where the trailing arm connects. I need to know if the shock/strut bolt separates completely from the trailing arm or not. I put the castle nut on the strut stud and hit it with a hammer but it's in there solid and won't budge. I was thinking that maybe the strut rubber bushings might be holding it up. Since I'm replacing the bushings anyway, could I get a torch and burn them out of there? Help!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,008
Likes: 38
From: Space Coast Gator Territory
brian, this thread will be of some help. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ut+rod+removal
I have done this job twice and it it can be a PITA. The shock mount is usually frozen to the steel liner of the rubber bushing. If you are replacing the struts with 'smart struts' you night consider cutting the strut ends to expose the rubber bushing, remove the rubber to expose the steel liner and cut it off the shock mounting bolt.
Another member used a two jaw puller connected to one fork in the bearing assembly housing and pushed the bolt out. There have been many innovative methods described in this forum to tackle this job. I used the caveman approach and with oxy-acetelene burned the rubber bushing while heating its liner until the bolt could be driven out. Do this in a well ventillated space, as the smoke will choke you out. If you choose this method, be sure to reverse the castillated nut over the thread to protect it when hammering. If you get too aggressive with the hammering you can damage the arms of the bearing assmebly and that will cost you. Ecklers sells a special nut for the hammering job, but I have not found it necessary. On reassembly use antisieze for the next time.
I have done this job twice and it it can be a PITA. The shock mount is usually frozen to the steel liner of the rubber bushing. If you are replacing the struts with 'smart struts' you night consider cutting the strut ends to expose the rubber bushing, remove the rubber to expose the steel liner and cut it off the shock mounting bolt.
Another member used a two jaw puller connected to one fork in the bearing assembly housing and pushed the bolt out. There have been many innovative methods described in this forum to tackle this job. I used the caveman approach and with oxy-acetelene burned the rubber bushing while heating its liner until the bolt could be driven out. Do this in a well ventillated space, as the smoke will choke you out. If you choose this method, be sure to reverse the castillated nut over the thread to protect it when hammering. If you get too aggressive with the hammering you can damage the arms of the bearing assmebly and that will cost you. Ecklers sells a special nut for the hammering job, but I have not found it necessary. On reassembly use antisieze for the next time.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 423
Likes: 3
From: New Port Richey, FL
Originally Posted by Red 69
brian, this thread will be of some help. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ut+rod+removal
I have done this job twice and it it can be a PITA. The shock mount is usually frozen to the steel liner of the rubber bushing. If you are replacing the struts with 'smart struts' you night consider cutting the strut ends to expose the rubber bushing, remove the rubber to expose the steel liner and cut it off the shock mounting bolt.
Another member used a two jaw puller connected to one fork in the bearing assembly housing and pushed the bolt out. There have been many innovative methods described in this forum to tackle this job. I used the caveman approach and with oxy-acetelene burned the rubber bushing while heating its liner until the bolt could be driven out. Do this in a well ventillated space, as the smoke will choke you out. If you choose this method, be sure to reverse the castillated nut over the thread to protect it when hammering. If you get too aggressive with the hammering you can damage the arms of the bearing assmebly and that will cost you. Ecklers sells a special nut for the hammering job, but I have not found it necessary. On reassembly use antisieze for the next time.
I have done this job twice and it it can be a PITA. The shock mount is usually frozen to the steel liner of the rubber bushing. If you are replacing the struts with 'smart struts' you night consider cutting the strut ends to expose the rubber bushing, remove the rubber to expose the steel liner and cut it off the shock mounting bolt.
Another member used a two jaw puller connected to one fork in the bearing assembly housing and pushed the bolt out. There have been many innovative methods described in this forum to tackle this job. I used the caveman approach and with oxy-acetelene burned the rubber bushing while heating its liner until the bolt could be driven out. Do this in a well ventillated space, as the smoke will choke you out. If you choose this method, be sure to reverse the castillated nut over the thread to protect it when hammering. If you get too aggressive with the hammering you can damage the arms of the bearing assmebly and that will cost you. Ecklers sells a special nut for the hammering job, but I have not found it necessary. On reassembly use antisieze for the next time.
