I would trim the tips.
Factory Side Pipe Covers Plus Performance
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,119
Likes: 213
From: Pittsburgh PA
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
I'm seriously considering trimming the tips... just wondering how true what Stahl said is. I could see where it could make a couple of horsepower difference; probably not enough to justify changing the looks of the car. I do remember Stahl talking about how much it could change the flow characteristics of the exhaust.
What is interesting is the length of the straight pipes he made for me - they are only about 7" before the turn-out starts with a total length of about 11.5". It will be interesting to compare these short pipes to my current set-up without the baffle in them.
What is interesting is the length of the straight pipes he made for me - they are only about 7" before the turn-out starts with a total length of about 11.5". It will be interesting to compare these short pipes to my current set-up without the baffle in them.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 4
From: Va
Hey Witz,
I was taking a look at some of your pics and noticed you were using the u-type straps on the rear u-joints. If you are planning to drive it hard you may consider upgrading from straps to machined type, which came on the big block cars and LT-1s. and/or install some safety loops from dragvette. just my 02 to save you from doing major fiberglass damage if one of those straps break.
I was taking a look at some of your pics and noticed you were using the u-type straps on the rear u-joints. If you are planning to drive it hard you may consider upgrading from straps to machined type, which came on the big block cars and LT-1s. and/or install some safety loops from dragvette. just my 02 to save you from doing major fiberglass damage if one of those straps break.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
Hey Witz,
I was taking a look at some of your pics and noticed you were using the u-type straps on the rear u-joints. If you are planning to drive it hard you may consider upgrading from straps to machined type, which came on the big block cars and LT-1s. and/or install some safety loops from dragvette. just my 02 to save you from doing major fiberglass damage if one of those straps break.
I was taking a look at some of your pics and noticed you were using the u-type straps on the rear u-joints. If you are planning to drive it hard you may consider upgrading from straps to machined type, which came on the big block cars and LT-1s. and/or install some safety loops from dragvette. just my 02 to save you from doing major fiberglass damage if one of those straps break.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
Results of baseline chassis dyno run from yesterday. I was extremely impressed with the performance of the baffles. 
We ran two runs with the 3.5" sidepipes and baffles - near identical (within 2 hp and 2 ft/lbs torque). Next I slipped off the sidepipes and put on the 3" short "race pipes". The short pipes only made an additional 12.8hp, but a little more torque - 23.6 ft/lbs.
The short pipes were extremely loud... I actually had to step out of the garage for the run. The link below is with the sidepipes on and me standing next to the car. Not bad - only losing 12.8 hp between a correct length open exhaust and a much quieter sidepipe.
I will be putting together a new post after I compile my flywheel dyno data and baseline chassis dyno data - interesting comparison.
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...andBaffle1.flv
We ran two runs with the 3.5" sidepipes and baffles - near identical (within 2 hp and 2 ft/lbs torque). Next I slipped off the sidepipes and put on the 3" short "race pipes". The short pipes only made an additional 12.8hp, but a little more torque - 23.6 ft/lbs.The short pipes were extremely loud... I actually had to step out of the garage for the run. The link below is with the sidepipes on and me standing next to the car. Not bad - only losing 12.8 hp between a correct length open exhaust and a much quieter sidepipe.
I will be putting together a new post after I compile my flywheel dyno data and baseline chassis dyno data - interesting comparison.
http://s53.photobucket.com/albums/g5...andBaffle1.flv
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 414
Likes: 1
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,326
Likes: 523
From: home
I've been in contact with Jere after seeing your exhaust. I had his old style road race headers on my 427 Corvette, but they exited way too low to drive the car on the street. I could just get my foot under the pipe where it came out from under the car.
Witz- how low are your headers? Can you post some pictures of how the tailpipes look where they exit the sidepipe covers? Thanks.
Mark
Witz- how low are your headers? Can you post some pictures of how the tailpipes look where they exit the sidepipe covers? Thanks.
Mark
Pro
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 511
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO
my local carquest carries them or you can try any medium duty truck supply store. they are great for clamping and removal later. for a complete seal use a little muffler cement around the area where the bols are and it will never leak.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Monroe Washington
Nice wheels, who is the manufacturer?
I finally had a few minutes to take a few photos showing the pipes under the covers. I decided to take Stahl's advice for maximum performance and not trim the tips to fit flush with the cover opening. This is the only only part that does not appear stock. Dyno testing next......
