Distributor advance cam
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
Distributor advance cam
I need to get an advance cam that only allows 14 to 16 degrees of mechanical advance. My original one is worn and has been brazed and that wore down some and I temporarly JB welded in some goo to limit the advance and it worked but only lasted for about 100 miles before it wore. I was set up at 22 initial with 36 total and it was running perfectly. I started to get pinging. Thought it was bad gas until I broke out the timing light. 
I was getting 42 total with 22 initial. OK found the problem but now I need and advance cam tha tonly allows a small amount of advance. I can take this one and braze more onto it but is there a cam that is only 14 to 16? Never seen one, but maybe some have. 
I was getting 42 total with 22 initial. OK found the problem but now I need and advance cam tha tonly allows a small amount of advance. I can take this one and braze more onto it but is there a cam that is only 14 to 16? Never seen one, but maybe some have.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 219
Likes: 2
From: Gainesville Florida
distributor advance cam
I used to slip a small metal tube over the pin in the advance slot on the distributor advance mechanism. You have to try different thickness tubes until you find one hat limits the movement in the slot the correct amount. A little adjusting and you can get the right advance. The tube method seamed to always last longer and was easier to do than welding the hole and ruining the distributor at the same time. Les
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
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From: Newark DE
disteibutor # 1112098 has a cam in it that only allows 14º of mechanical advance so if you can find a cam plate from that it would do what you are looking for but I don't know the number of the cam plate itself.
The easiest would be as Bob suggests and simply weld up the slot some and than you can file or grid it down to fine tune it to the amount you need or possibly use as a large of a limiting bushing as you can find.
The easiest would be as Bob suggests and simply weld up the slot some and than you can file or grid it down to fine tune it to the amount you need or possibly use as a large of a limiting bushing as you can find.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
No HEI.
I have a temporary fix in it now. I put a sleeve on the post in the slot. This took away a lot of the movement. This winter I will make a better fix. Probably weld up the plate and grind to what is needed.
I have a temporary fix in it now. I put a sleeve on the post in the slot. This took away a lot of the movement. This winter I will make a better fix. Probably weld up the plate and grind to what is needed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 27
From: Auburndale Florida
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Originally Posted by Gordonm
No HEI.
I have a temporary fix in it now. I put a sleeve on the post in the slot. This took away a lot of the movement. This winter I will make a better fix. Probably weld up the plate and grind to what is needed.
I have a temporary fix in it now. I put a sleeve on the post in the slot. This took away a lot of the movement. This winter I will make a better fix. Probably weld up the plate and grind to what is needed.
Looks like it would have to come apart...unless you can slide in on from the under side...
Mark
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Forked River NJ
Originally Posted by mbeeman350
Gordonm did you have to take the distributor out of the car and take apart to put on the sleeve. I need to do the same, I have 30*. Rebuilt my distributor a while back with bushings, main shaft and cross shaft but did not notice how big the slot had gotten with wear.
Looks like it would have to come apart...unless you can slide in on from the under side... Mark
Looks like it would have to come apart...unless you can slide in on from the under side...
Mark
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 27
From: Auburndale Florida
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Originally Posted by Gordonm
Oh yea it has to come out for sure. I have done this so many times I have it out in about 2 minutes. It took me a total of about 15 minutes to remove tear down fix and put back in. Just have to reset the timing. It fired right up, just did not have time to time it. Maybe today.
thanks
Mark
Thread Starter
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From: Forked River NJ
Originally Posted by mbeeman350
What's good to use for a sleeve and how do you secure it to the post?
thanks
Mark
thanks
Mark
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Gordonm
my fix as I said was temporary. I used a piece of fuel line hose from my sons RC cars. It was a very tight fit and should be OK for a temporary fix. I also put on an E clip on the bottom of the stud. There is a slight recess at this point so it should keep the tubing from slipping off. I am going to weld the plate up over the winter for a more permanent fix and then just grind the slot to the advance I need.
swing by and we can weld it up, bob
Thread Starter
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From: Forked River NJ
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
swing by and we can weld it up, bob