sorry, it probably would have helped if i read the whole thread...
i say go for the XR282..get it custom with on a billet core, sleeved gear, and on a 112lsa. your still within range for your springs..even on 1.6s, and it would make an awesome street machine..especially with those heads.

 

Redshark..This is all about having only 9.1 to 1 compression ratio
so Not that one you mentioned, to much work and the results wont warrant it.
But I may step it up one more notch with this one
CS XR276HR-12
112 LSA
224/230 @050
276/281 Advertised
.536/.544 w/ 1.6 Rockers

That is IF anyone can tell me sure that MY 9.1 to 1 CR , 200cc intake runner engine will have optimum low torque and the heads NOT be maxed out just trying to get some RPM's , I know for sure I need low duration numbers to compensate for Lack of Compression, and resulting low cylinder pressure. Know what I mean?? someone convince me I can go up another notch to this CS XR276HR-12 and Ill do it..Im overdue to get this Valve train in the garage..
Thanks Redshark...

 

What are the rpm power band ranges of those two cams?I still think you will be best off with the edlebrock cam,its rpm operating range kicks in a little lower then most other cams that size,and keeps going to 6500.Its also perfect for your heads and setup.

 

Billy..

I did look at that edl-2201 It looks good Something not right though I forgot what? anyway..
The smaller comp is 1500-5500rpm range

The larger Comp is
1800-5800rpm range..

 

You really want more top end then 5500rpm.If you settle on those two cams,definently go with the bigger one.Find out what was wrong with the edl-2201 cam,im just curious what you think might be wrong with it,maybe its something i have over looked on it.

 

its the duration..those numbers are way past how my engine would be optimal , because of the low compression. If you have at least 9.5 to one compression any of those larger cams would work just fine for you..Not for me I have dished pistons and a lower compression ratio that wont support the higher duration numbers..check your compression ratio if your up there at 9.5 - 10.0 to 1, you dont have to be conservative..

 

Im 10 to 1. Well, you can all ways go supercharged

 

with a hydraulic roller...5500rpm is max IMO and according to my engine builder, any more than that, go with a solid..valve float is definitely something you want to stay away from..so your peak HP coming in around that rpm will be ideal. good luck with the build and keep us posted. XR276 hydraulic roller on a 110lsa sounds good.

 

I think this will be good for your application.

 

For my own desire to know ... and for your future reference ... would you please measure exactly how far below clean deck your HT383 pistons are when piston is exactly highest in bore/at TDC? And post here/email me? Would appreciate it, thanks!

 

OK, Grind Number CS XR269HR-12 it is,
Ill have it and the rest of the valve train Mid next week.

Jackson..Ill be turning the engine to #1 TDC getting the timing gear on, so Ill stick a feeler guage down there and let you know how far down from the deck it is. Knowbody knows and they dont list it so I see your point..

Guru..Hilary is #1 on my Slap list..whadda lulu..

Ill be posting as I go along..

 

Thank You Sir!

 

Have been following this, still going through a cam selection for my 383....any updates or progress?

 

You'd be surprised how well your car would run with 9:1 compression and the right cam. My 75 was 9:1 comp 383 with a smallish Comp XE262 ( 218/224@.050 110ls) hyd flat tappet. It had good vacuum (15"), got decent mileage (19 hwy), sounded nice and ran 7.99 - 8 .0's (12.5 quarter) all night long in the eighth mile. (7.13 with a 125 shot of n2o) The cam wiped after 4 years and of course I wanted to go a little bigger. I used the 1094 gasket (iron heads/block) to bump the comp a bit and stepped up to an ISKY 270/280 hyd flat tappet (221/232@.050 112ls). I have slightly less vacuum, get less mileage and the car runs virtually identical times (8.0's) in the eighth. I ran 1.6 rockers to get more lift with both cams. Cranking comp with the COMP was 200 - 205. With the ISKY it is 190 -195. The heads are 200cc Sportsman II's. (worked a bit)

 

You'll need to check deck height at all 4 corners. I've seen .015 and more difference from corner to corner. That can and will have a significant impact on quench and power. Try to keep your quench at .035 - .045 maximum to help reduce detonation, etc. Hope it works out well for you. Good choice of heads, IMHO.

 

The Piston depth is .025, I checked it in several places and came up with that number everytime.

Nastee383, I think Ill have close to 9.5 compession , I went ahead and coppercoated both sides of a 1094 gasket and put them on. I really want that Bump in compression with these 200cc heads!!Fel-pro documentation says they will work for Iron and Alum. heads. Plus I talked to some guys that have used them on Alum. Perfomance heads without problems. And they looked after removing the heads several years later. Anyway...Ill post if they fail sometime in the future for whatever reason! and then have the heads milled .025"-.030" and use a composite gasket.

The engine is comming togeather, I have the XR269HR-12 cam installed, dual roller timing chain installed,Timing marks Straight Up. The heads w/Arp 12point bolts are Torqued down. The Brodix IK200's are well machined, I looked them over closely and cant find any sloppiness in any area!

BUT, I ended up with the wrong pushrods and sent them back. By mistake, I ordered 7.8" length,thats stock for hyd. Lifters, I need 7.2" length for the Hyd. Rollers. So I decided to do the right thing and Ordered the Length checker tools so I can get them exact. They will likely be between 7.2"-7.3. UPS showed up yesterday with the adjustable pushrod so Ill get the correct measurement tomorrow and post the exact length soon.
Should have it all togeather in a few hrs, just As soon as I get the right pushrods and get the Valves adjusted.


Got the Block Painted, "Chevy Orange" Of course, Heres a pic of that just before the heads went on.
Ill post more Pics in the next few days.

It will be a few weeks more before I Have time to get the engines Swapped(christmas Holiday).
I'd like to get my eng. compartment all Spiffed up , Ive seen so many Real Beautiful engine install pics on this forum..WoW. Want it to be at least cosmetically worthy too, for all me and my wife's effort, time and money .
Thanks for the replies and help Guys!!!
Tom

PS..Ill be swapping my old original radiator for one Of Tom Dewitt's Direct fit alums. W/spal fan. Thats a Must Have.

 

Well the 1094's would have worked just fine without spraying them with coppercoat. I wish they would stop making that stuff. That coating on the 1094 allows the head to expand and contract (at different rates than iron block) without extruding the coating as it does so, yet it still seals. Now instead of allowing the head to "slide" on the gasket coating (as it expands and contracts) it's stuck to the head. So now the coating will be pulled from the embossed steel shim, and MAY leak. No one will blame the installer, only how "crappy" the gaskets are, that goes for anybody's gasket.

Read again those engine build-ups in your magazines, they reused those same gaskets over and over for their "head swap for power" stories. It's basically the same coating for shim as it is the thicker MLS parts. If you have an engine with fresh machining, as yours does, along with the new heads there's NO need for extra sealing coatings or RTV's. I have thousands of hours of testing experience on this subject, trust me, if you all have had the correct machining done, it will seal fine.

Please post the piston cc, I believe your correct on C/R with those dished pistons.

I have just purchased AFR 180 Eliminator heads for a 327 build up of mine and I will be using the same part number head gaskets, 1094. I too have been reavaluating my cam choice as I have a 5sp with same 3.73 gear. Around town drivability is important to me also and I'm running my dyno programs to estimate my low rpm power and less high rpm power to keep drivabiliy reasonable. I'm in the 400 hp (@ crank) so far and with these new heads should be more like 440+hp. Remember, as you reach 6000 RPM Roller ramps play havic with valve springs. If you intend to run in this range often I suggest you look into the rev kits for rollers as previously mentioned.

Overall looks like your going to have a nice setup, have fun and enjoy.
-Later.