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Lug Stud Replacement Price $$$ ?

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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 05:06 AM
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Default Lug Stud Replacement Price $$$ ?

I've had my 1980 vette for about 2 months now. I took it to the local tireman to get my studs replaced. Back left missing one and back left missing 2 lug studs. They told me it would be about $600 to get them replaced since they would have to take everything apart including the axles off. I know it's a hard part to replace but does this sound like a decent price? I'm not mechanical enough and don't mind paying but am always interested in any suggestions. I live in Tampa, Fl.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 06:49 AM
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I can't answer your question, but I have a similar problem myself. However, I only have one stud that needs to be replaced. I hope $600 isn't a reasonable price...
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 06:56 AM
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Too bad it wasn't a front one. Big job doing a rear, need to pull everything apart, press out the spindle. then new seals and possible re-shim during assembly. Hope your tire guy knows what he's doing because things can go wrong real easy.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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If that is what they are going to do you might as well rebuild the rear wheel bearing assembly. This is something that a while your at it is worth it. If they have to disassmble everything which they do to do it right it is apart and have them or preferably someone who knows what they are doing rebuild the wheel bearing assembly. You are better off if you go this way to remove thetrailing arm and have someone like Van Steel rebuild the whole thing and replace the studs while it is apart. It will cost some more but the wheel bearing assmebly will last a LOOONG time from there. I would not have a "tire" guy take apart my rear wheel bearing assembly.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 07:22 AM
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If you do some of your own work, plull the bearing assembly off and send it up to Artie at Van Steel and they'll replace the bearing and stud. While you're in there, look at the bushings on the trailing arm and if they need to be replaced, send that entire wheel bearing and t-arm assembly to them. They do really nice work.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 08:18 AM
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I haven't done it myself (yet) but I read that if you bend or drill a hole in the dust shield you can easily replace the studs. I think Twin_Turbo did it, PM him if he doesn't see this thread

BTW, time to upgrade to ARP studs. Don't buy the cheap $1 studs from the parts store
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 09:19 AM
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Pull them off and send them to Bairs or others. You end up with rebuilt arms that allways need done if you have not had them worked on. Your local people have a 95% chance of screwing them up to the point they will fail soon after they fix the studs. The cost sounds about the same and you won,t need to keep fixing them.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
If you do some of your own work, plull the bearing assembly off and send it up to Artie at Van Steel and they'll replace the bearing and stud. While you're in there, look at the bushings on the trailing arm and if they need to be replaced, send that entire wheel bearing and t-arm assembly to them. They do really nice work.
I would send complete trailing arms to Van Steel and have them check them out. I sent mine to them and they had to straighten one T arm and replaced one spindle (worn too much). I had them powder coat the T arms while they had them. I had installed new parking brake hardware recently so they reused those parts.

It was more than I had hoped to spend but well worth it. The peace of mind that an expert set up the bearings and checked everything was worth sending them off.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 72vette_454
I would send complete trailing arms to Van Steel and have them check them out. I sent mine to them and they had to straighten one T arm and replaced one spindle (worn too much). I had them powder coat the T arms while they had them. I had installed new parking brake hardware recently so they reused those parts.

It was more than I had hoped to spend but well worth it. The peace of mind that an expert set up the bearings and checked everything was worth sending them off.
They do very nice work!
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 09:59 AM
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BTW - I think I paid $900 to have both trailing arms done.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by StumpManSteve
I've had my 1980 vette for about 2 months now. I took it to the local tireman to get my studs replaced. Back left missing one and back left missing 2 lug studs. They told me it would be about $600 to get them replaced since they would have to take everything apart including the axles off. I know it's a hard part to replace but does this sound like a decent price? I'm not mechanical enough and don't mind paying but am always interested in any suggestions. I live in Tampa, Fl.

Deep BS...I've just replaced a rear lug stud on my '69 without pulling the spindle. The p-brake stuff was off, replaced with stainless steel hardware. Obviously the rotor was off...if never removed on your car, the rivets will need to be drilled out to remove.

Still a far cry from pulling the spindles.

Steve
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 03:05 PM
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I talked to the guy who actually had the vette before me. He has a shop that works on vettes about 50% of the time. He told me to bring it by and he'd treat me right. His shop is on North Dale Mabry in case anyone wants to know. I know I didn't want to use the tire guy because he should have known what was involved before he started to try and replace the studs.
I'll probably replace any worn parts as needed and get the best studs possible. It's just hard to believe what's involved for a couple of bucks in parts. Thanks for all the help and PM me if anyone wants to know the price here in tampa.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 04:07 PM
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I was able to replace a rear stud on my '76 with nothing off but the tire. Just smacked the damaged stud with a 3 lb sledge till it was loose, rotated the rotor till the stud was at the bottom and I was able to wiggle it out.
Wiggled a new one in and tightened it up. Maybe the '80 is different, but it would be worth a try.

Edit: I did remove the rotor. Still not a big deal.

Last edited by Shrike; Nov 8, 2006 at 04:10 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Shrike
I was able to replace a rear stud on my '76 with nothing off but the tire. Just smacked the damaged stud with a 3 lb sledge till it was loose, rotated the rotor till the stud was at the bottom and I was able to wiggle it out.
Wiggled a new one in and tightened it up. Maybe the '80 is different, but it would be worth a try.

Edit: I did remove the rotor. Still not a big deal.
That was my experience. Installing a new stud is too fancy a word for it, you merely tighten your lug nut and the knurled shoulder of the lug stud will pull right in.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Yup!
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 05:37 PM
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I also agree. Had my one missing rear stud done at the shop while other non related work was being done. Was charged $8. Note that this was done at a vette only shop.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 05:51 PM
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Guess I learned something new. Didn't think there would be clearance there even with the PB hardware off.
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To Lug Stud Replacement Price $$$ ?

Old Nov 8, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 72vette_454
I would send complete trailing arms to Van Steel and have them check them out. I sent mine to them and they had to straighten one T arm and replaced one spindle (worn too much). I had them powder coat the T arms while they had them. I had installed new parking brake hardware recently so they reused those parts.

It was more than I had hoped to spend but well worth it. The peace of mind that an expert set up the bearings and checked everything was worth sending them off.
take your car to Van Steel, it's right across from Tampa over the Gandy bridge
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Fish
Guess I learned something new. Didn't think there would be clearance there even with the PB hardware off.

We all learn here. And that is what is good about the Forum.
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Old Nov 8, 2006 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Big Fish
Guess I learned something new. Didn't think there would be clearance there even with the PB hardware off.
Yep, I take out the p.b. adjuster and there is enough room. Tight, but enough.
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