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I had to take the trailing arm assemblies off to knock out the spindles on my 78. The bushing was causing too much flex when I pounded the knocker, but I was on my back under the car. I suppose if you have a lift you could get more bang on it and not have to remove the trailing arms.
Once I had the arms out, I held my sledge in one hand and the whole assembly in the other and hit the hammer to the knocker in a big clapping motion. Looked kinda goofy but it worked nicely.
i had to take the whole assembly out and give it about 40 wacks with a hand sledge with all my might. Towards the end i was screaming die you mother die. The neighbors love me but they stay away from me.
With the trailing arm in you only have about a foot of room to wale on it.
Some come out easy, some not so easy. Some don't come out. At that point, either the t-arm comes out for press-time, or torch time..heat the inner bearing race and try again.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I'd say you run about a 50-50 chance on being able to get the thing apart with a spindle knocker. I have a spindle knocker, and it hasn't worked on any trailing arm I've ever tried it on, and I have a REALLY big hammer, too. Other people have had good luck with them (like big_G). I've always ended up on the press in order to get the spindle out. You have little to loose by giving it a shot - just make sure it's fully threaded on and bottomed out so you don't screw up your spindle threads.
I had my trailing arms off the car and used the spindle knocker. The one side probably to 10 whacks. On the other side, the star adjuster for the parking brake was not functional so I could not back off the brake shoes. I would guess it took a hundred hits. Most of them to get the shoes past the drum.
I'd say you run about a 50-50 chance on being able to get the thing apart with a spindle knocker. I have a spindle knocker, and it hasn't worked on any trailing arm I've ever tried it on, and I have a REALLY big hammer, too. Other people have had good luck with them (like big_G). I've always ended up on the press in order to get the spindle out. You have little to loose by giving it a shot - just make sure it's fully threaded on and bottomed out so you don't screw up your spindle threads.
I agree with the 50-50 but one way to increase your chances is to wedge the wheel side.What I mean is like having a buddy trying to pull the axle out while you are striking the knocker.This will maximize each strike.If you allow the bearing to be loose you lose alot.I dont have any buddys(boo hoo) so I tap a wood wedge in between the back of wheel flange and the parking brake top anchor bolt.Next is a little heat on the inner bearing.Next is my Kent & Moore on the car press.This never fails and if used "properly" does "not" bend the caliper mount.
I took the trailing arms to the auto parts store and had the spindles pressed out for 10 dollars each. Cheap and didn't have to pay or wait for shipping (just gas).
Wail on a knocker and you take the chance of bending your spindle threads, ruining the spindle. GM service tool from Kent Moore bolts to brake caliper mount and strut rod mount and allows easy removal. DO NOT try to force a spindle off with a Kent Moore type tool by crancking down on the big bolt, tighten it down against the spindle and give the big bolt a few good whacks to break the spindle free, tighten again and whack a second time and it should be ready to remove. I guarantee you will bend the caliper mounting bracket and your rear brake will never be the same again if you don't use this method. There is a guy on Ebay selling a replica of Kent Moore tool for under $200 and it is great quality.