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Thanks to all for the input!!! I think I'll try the spindle knocker. It's not that expensive, and if the spindles are like everything else on this car has been it will take 2 or 3 different tries of different ways to get them out!
Since the subject was brought up (with a bit of disagreement) what is the difference between slip fit and press fit spindles?
Thanks to all for the input!!! I think I'll try the spindle knocker. It's not that expensive, and if the spindles are like everything else on this car has been it will take 2 or 3 different tries of different ways to get them out!
Since the subject was brought up (with a bit of disagreement) what is the difference between slip fit and press fit spindles?
I have the knocker, a 20 ton press, the Spindle press tool, and a machine shop to use.
Most of the arms I do are ones that were on the car since Moses was a baby. They are on there pretty dam tight. I do not and would not try this on the car, but then I'm not pushing cars in/out as a business either. I take my time on every job to be sure it is right.
For those arms that are old I press them apart. The backing plate will get bent but they are junk to begin with and will get replaced. Soak them a day before with blaster or Kroll or anything that works for you.
When pressing be sure to support the housing or you'll get to cast iron snap pretty quick.
For arms that were worked on in the past, usually by a local shop that wrecked them, I can use the knocker but still with the arm on the bench.
I have never used the spindle press tool the catalogs advertise. I think it's about as good as the rear bearing greaser. It cost well over $100 too.
Slip fit vs press, well that's a subject like politics here so you're never going to get agreement on it. I press fit my jobs unless requested to slip fit and the owner signs a waiver. My cars are all press fit.
I have been asked lately about this job from 4 or 5 forum members. Think about the tips on the job I gave you, it will make a difference in the final outcome.
Well...this is one of the trailing arms I'm pulling off. And yes that big jagged place next to the brake line is a hole big enough to get a couple of fingertips in.
So I'm not too worried about damaging the T/A's. But I don't want to damage the spindle as they turn easily and quietly. So there is hope for re-use.
I've got a 12 ton press. So I can always press them if the spindle knocker doesn't work. But like I said before, one method never seems to work on both sides of this car.
Edit: Thanks AGAIN for the tips Gary!
Last edited by eileenthevette; Nov 12, 2006 at 01:17 PM.
Well...this is one of the trailing arms I'm pulling off. And yes that big jagged place next to the brake line is a hole big enough to get a couple of fingertips in.
So I'm not too worried about damaging the T/A's. But I don't want to damage the spindle as they turn easily and quietly. So there is hope for re-use.
I've got a 12 ton press. So I can always press them if the spindle knocker doesn't work. But like I said before, one method never seems to work on both sides of this car.
Edit: Thanks AGAIN for the tips Gary!
Oh those are fine a couple tubes of JB Weld and your good to go.
Yikes! I bet you will have fun removing the t-arm front pivot bolt and shock mount. Looking at the shims, the rust is substantial. How is the rest of the frame?
Surprisingly not too bad. Here is a couple of pics from when I lifted the body a couple of weeks ago. These were the only 2 bad spots I found. Both on the driver side. I expected worse.