U-Joint Install
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,156
Likes: 3,965
From: Connecticut, USA
you are very capable of installing Spicers so I would do it. I'll never use a zerk joint again. The one that broke in 1/2 on me was USA made 20 years ago had no real hard use and lasted 18k miles.
I had some TRW's here I got from a vendor years ago before I started to stock Spicers. Iwas told they were the best to use. Cost about $10 a joint less. I used them on my 72 for 800 miles and threw them in the trash.
Last edited by GTR1999; Feb 24, 2007 at 01:40 PM.
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Could you clarify a small part on the install please.
I replaced a u-joint on the drive shaft but figure it is similar to the half shaft u-joints. After pressing in the u-joint, it rotated without any resistance. I installed the lock clips and had to press some more to be able to get those in. The u-joint was now stuck and would not rotate. Tapping the yoke ears with a hammer to remove tension helped and the cross now rotates with some resistance. Is this resistance acceptable or is it what you describe as "binding" and could make the new u-joint fail soon?
I have done some test drives and notice no vibration from the drive shaft even at high speeds.
I'm grateful for any input
I replaced a u-joint on the drive shaft but figure it is similar to the half shaft u-joints. After pressing in the u-joint, it rotated without any resistance. I installed the lock clips and had to press some more to be able to get those in. The u-joint was now stuck and would not rotate. Tapping the yoke ears with a hammer to remove tension helped and the cross now rotates with some resistance. Is this resistance acceptable or is it what you describe as "binding" and could make the new u-joint fail soon?
I have done some test drives and notice no vibration from the drive shaft even at high speeds.
I'm grateful for any input
