7T9 Vette
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
7T9 Vette
Does anyone have a drawing picture view of 7T9 Vette where the frame attaches to the body at the rear panels?
Mechanic claims there are four bolts that attaches frame to body in the rear. The bolts have completely rusted out and the body needs to be removed to repair the frame support brackets.
Looking at removal of body and repairs $8,000.00....Somebody help me.
Mechanic claims there are four bolts that attaches frame to body in the rear. The bolts have completely rusted out and the body needs to be removed to repair the frame support brackets.
Looking at removal of body and repairs $8,000.00....Somebody help me.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
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From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
I have not done it myself but I have seen the mounting bolts. Look into the rear wheel well above the tire to the rear, there is one in plain view. The next one is tward the front, there is a cover plate a little above the TA pocket but ferther outward in the wheel well. It can be very hard to get to. There has been members post pics of this job, I am sure someone will chime in soon.
How you been I have not seen you post in a while, I thought you were selling the vette or something like that.
Neal
How you been I have not seen you post in a while, I thought you were selling the vette or something like that.
Neal
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
[QUOTE=chevymans 77]I have not done it myself but I have seen the mounting bolts. Look into the rear wheel well above the tire to the rear, there is one in plain view. The next one is tward the front, there is a cover plate a little above the TA pocket but ferther outward in the wheel well. It can be very hard to get to. There has been members post pics of this job, I am sure someone will chime in soon.
How you been I have not seen you post in a while, I thought you were selling the vette or something like that.
Neal
The Mechanic says the body will have to come off to make welding repairs to the plates back there.
Body off work and welding cost will approach or exceed $8,000.00.....Probably not worth repairing a 7T9 at this point. Thanks for the reply.
How you been I have not seen you post in a while, I thought you were selling the vette or something like that.
Neal
The Mechanic says the body will have to come off to make welding repairs to the plates back there.
Body off work and welding cost will approach or exceed $8,000.00.....Probably not worth repairing a 7T9 at this point. Thanks for the reply.
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From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
That's an awful lot of money to pull the body & repair the frame. For 8k you should be able to get a 79 with only minimal rust. I don't know what shipping is, but almost be better off. What about buying a frame & shipping it over?
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
Originally Posted by ratflinger
That's an awful lot of money to pull the body & repair the frame. For 8k you should be able to get a 79 with only minimal rust. I don't know what shipping is, but almost be better off. What about buying a frame & shipping it over?
Maybe drop a new frame under there???????
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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Is this your yellow Vette ? If so fix it !
Sounds like someone yanking your chain there, 8K gets you a complete frame swap around here with money left over for upgrades. Take it to another shop
Sounds like someone yanking your chain there, 8K gets you a complete frame swap around here with money left over for upgrades. Take it to another shop
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: North NJ
DIY...if the mounts are rusted that bad you may have some frame rust.
If your mechanic discovers the frame rust then you'll need a new frame if its not repairable making all these extra costs time sensitive as you will be wasting his garage space. If you do it yourself, not only is it cheaper, fun, a learning experience, but you work and spend $$ at your own pace. If its the #4 mounts behind the rear wheels you can buy a new frame bracket and weld it in there without lifting the body. If its your #3 mounts infront of the rear wheels behind the little panel door you may need to lift the body just a few inches to get at the cage nut, if its the #3 that is rusted then look for more frame rust.
Just my .02
THEN AGAIN you are in Hawaii and may be able to convince a forum member to come visit and do it for you if you provide all expenses, tools, food & beer. I'll check my schedule.
I was able to lift each side of my 68 at a time to replace bushings and gain access to those mounts without lifting the body. But if welding is required it will need to be lifted both sides together to get some frame clearance.
If your mechanic discovers the frame rust then you'll need a new frame if its not repairable making all these extra costs time sensitive as you will be wasting his garage space. If you do it yourself, not only is it cheaper, fun, a learning experience, but you work and spend $$ at your own pace. If its the #4 mounts behind the rear wheels you can buy a new frame bracket and weld it in there without lifting the body. If its your #3 mounts infront of the rear wheels behind the little panel door you may need to lift the body just a few inches to get at the cage nut, if its the #3 that is rusted then look for more frame rust.
Just my .02
THEN AGAIN you are in Hawaii and may be able to convince a forum member to come visit and do it for you if you provide all expenses, tools, food & beer. I'll check my schedule.
I was able to lift each side of my 68 at a time to replace bushings and gain access to those mounts without lifting the body. But if welding is required it will need to be lifted both sides together to get some frame clearance.
Last edited by 68 NJConv 454; Nov 13, 2006 at 10:59 PM.
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
Originally Posted by 68 NJConv 454
DIY...if the mounts are rusted that bad you may have some frame rust.
If your mechanic discovers the frame rust then you'll need a new frame if its not repairable making all these extra costs time sensitive as you will be wasting his garage space. If you do it yourself, not only is it cheaper, fun, a learning experience, but you work and spend $$ at your own pace. If its the #4 mounts behind the rear wheels you can buy a new frame bracket and weld it in there without lifting the body. If its your #3 mounts infront of the rear wheels behind the little panel door you may need to lift the body just a few inches to get at the cage nut, if its the #3 that is rusted then look for more frame rust.
Just my .02
THEN AGAIN you are in Hawaii and may be able to convince a forum member to come visit and do it for you if you provide all expenses, tools, food & beer. I'll check my schedule. I was able to lift each side of my 68 at a time to replace bushings and gain access to those mounts without lifting the body. But if welding is required it will need to be lifted both sides together to get some frame clearance.
If your mechanic discovers the frame rust then you'll need a new frame if its not repairable making all these extra costs time sensitive as you will be wasting his garage space. If you do it yourself, not only is it cheaper, fun, a learning experience, but you work and spend $$ at your own pace. If its the #4 mounts behind the rear wheels you can buy a new frame bracket and weld it in there without lifting the body. If its your #3 mounts infront of the rear wheels behind the little panel door you may need to lift the body just a few inches to get at the cage nut, if its the #3 that is rusted then look for more frame rust.
Just my .02
THEN AGAIN you are in Hawaii and may be able to convince a forum member to come visit and do it for you if you provide all expenses, tools, food & beer. I'll check my schedule.
I was able to lift each side of my 68 at a time to replace bushings and gain access to those mounts without lifting the body. But if welding is required it will need to be lifted both sides together to get some frame clearance.I think it's the #3 cage mounts.....there should be four bolts...however only one bolt is holding it all together. The other 3 bolts are missing and the mount is broken off the metal frame. Wish I had a picture of this area for reference.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: North NJ
Originally Posted by 8T1-7T9 BIONIC VETTE
I think it's the #3 cage mounts.....there should be four bolts...however only one bolt is holding it all together. The other 3 bolts are missing and the mount is broken off the metal frame. Wish I had a picture of this area for reference.
Below are pics courtesy of Corvette Central showing you the frame/body mounting points. I always type in a description of what i'm looking for and use their site for pics so I can visualize what I need to do. Good stuff. BTW, I don't understand the "3 bolts missing" portion. I really hope your car isn't missing the body mount bolts. If you were missing three on one side that would be very bad and if driven i'm sure your car would slide around on the frame and crack the fiberglass. Bolts have broken while trying to remove them. Sounds like your #4 mount could be broken/rusted off the frame. Easy to replace if you have a welder.
Last edited by 68 NJConv 454; Nov 14, 2006 at 10:20 AM.
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
Originally Posted by 68 NJConv 454
I have actual pics of my car at home if you'd like to see them. e-mail me at doogie1101@hotmail.com and I'll send you some tomorrow night.
Below are pics courtesy of Corvette Central showing you the frame/body mounting points. I always type in a description of what i'm looking for and use their site for pics so I can visualize what I need to do. Good stuff. BTW, I don't understand the "3 bolts missing" portion. I really hope your car isn't missing the body mount bolts. If you were missing three on one side that would be very bad and if driven i'm sure your car would slide around on the frame and crack the fiberglass. Bolts have broken while trying to remove them. Sounds like your #4 mount could be broken/rusted off the frame. Easy to replace if you have a welder.
Below are pics courtesy of Corvette Central showing you the frame/body mounting points. I always type in a description of what i'm looking for and use their site for pics so I can visualize what I need to do. Good stuff. BTW, I don't understand the "3 bolts missing" portion. I really hope your car isn't missing the body mount bolts. If you were missing three on one side that would be very bad and if driven i'm sure your car would slide around on the frame and crack the fiberglass. Bolts have broken while trying to remove them. Sounds like your #4 mount could be broken/rusted off the frame. Easy to replace if you have a welder.
Thanks....That's what I was looking for.
Pictures do help when trying to scope the project for cost to repair.
Can this be number four mount be repaired and or replaced without removing the body?
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yes, it's the easiest one, #4 is just an outrigger on the frame and a bolt going up into the body to a caged nut riveted to the fiberglass. Cut the bolt, remove the cage and pull out rest of the bolt & nut, get a new bolt, nut and bushing, rivet cage back in....presto.
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
yes, it's the easiest one, #4 is just an outrigger on the frame and a bolt going up into the body to a caged nut riveted to the fiberglass. Cut the bolt, remove the cage and pull out rest of the bolt & nut, get a new bolt, nut and bushing, rivet cage back in....presto.
Let me find out why the mech wants the big bucks to remove body from frame.
I'll be back
Thanks
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If you don't remove the body or cut of the frame moutn you can't reinstall the nut cage since the rivets are behind the metal reinforcement, if you use a regular nut or the original cage nut without the cage you will need a buddy to help tighten it but it's a lot less work than replacing the cage nut assembly
Hey something else, they show a fanta commercial here with some hawaiian looking types talking about babmoocha this and bamboocha that, not really interesting but the commercial has a yellow vette with a chich standing next to it and it sure looks like yours...is it?
Hey something else, they show a fanta commercial here with some hawaiian looking types talking about babmoocha this and bamboocha that, not really interesting but the commercial has a yellow vette with a chich standing next to it and it sure looks like yours...is it?
Thread Starter
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
If you don't remove the body or cut of the frame moutn you can't reinstall the nut cage since the rivets are behind the metal reinforcement, if you use a regular nut or the original cage nut without the cage you will need a buddy to help tighten it but it's a lot less work than replacing the cage nut assembly
Hey something else, they show a fanta commercial here with some hawaiian looking types talking about babmoocha this and bamboocha that, not really interesting but the commercial has a yellow vette with a chich standing next to it and it sure looks like yours...is it?
Hey something else, they show a fanta commercial here with some hawaiian looking types talking about babmoocha this and bamboocha that, not really interesting but the commercial has a yellow vette with a chich standing next to it and it sure looks like yours...is it?
Can this work (replace entire assembly) be done without removing the body????
Looks like the high cost is involved with removing the body. AND the mech wants to take the body off.
No that's not my car in that commercial....My car used only once in a Verizon commercial. My son has the Yellow Vett now....However we still call it my car....since whenever he has problems with it he calls me to make repairs.
Thanks for all your help regarding this repairs to mounts....we are also looking at replacing both trailing arms....The 7T9 does not hold much value.....and dumping money into a bottomless pit quickly gets old.
Aloha,
Cappy
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: North NJ
I have a 68 convertible and was able to rip out my #4 cage nut after removing the upper convertible reinforcement piece with the body on. I also replace the lower "cup" reinforcements with the body on. I just had to "carefully" raise the body a few inches by useing some scrap wood and a pipe b/w the body & frame over the wheel well.
I'm sure the coupe is more restricted in the rear compartment (bubble window right?) but you should be able to get at the cage nut and such from the interior without removing the body. You can also cut off the rusted #4 body mount on the frame and buy a replacement piece and weld it on without removing the body. Just have to raise it an inch or so and support it while you cut and weld. This is something you CAN do yourself and I would suggest doing so to save some $$ and learn a bit more about your car.
I know my 68 inside and out, I don't know the later C3's all that well so just go pull up some carpet and check it out for yourself.
I'm sure the coupe is more restricted in the rear compartment (bubble window right?) but you should be able to get at the cage nut and such from the interior without removing the body. You can also cut off the rusted #4 body mount on the frame and buy a replacement piece and weld it on without removing the body. Just have to raise it an inch or so and support it while you cut and weld. This is something you CAN do yourself and I would suggest doing so to save some $$ and learn a bit more about your car.
I know my 68 inside and out, I don't know the later C3's all that well so just go pull up some carpet and check it out for yourself.
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From: HONOLULU HAWAII
Okay....Got the scoop from the mech after showing him the drawing.
It's the bolts at the end of frame where they connect to E-cross member in the drawings.
It's these four bolts that are rusted out and missing.....and the connecting plate are rusted.
It's the bolts at the end of frame where they connect to E-cross member in the drawings.
It's these four bolts that are rusted out and missing.....and the connecting plate are rusted.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
#4 is easy, can be done with the body in place.
#3 can be done with the body in place if you cut the fiberglass. I've cut that area to get access to the mounting plate/nut when I replaced my body mounts. I cut the section of fiberglass and glassed it back in place after I was done working on the body mount. I had to weld the nut to the frame because it would spin when turning the bolt.... after I glassed and painted it you cannot tell it was ever cut.
Is this bubba ? maybe .... does it work and safe a $hitload of money ? definately yes....
#3 can be done with the body in place if you cut the fiberglass. I've cut that area to get access to the mounting plate/nut when I replaced my body mounts. I cut the section of fiberglass and glassed it back in place after I was done working on the body mount. I had to weld the nut to the frame because it would spin when turning the bolt.... after I glassed and painted it you cannot tell it was ever cut.
Is this bubba ? maybe .... does it work and safe a $hitload of money ? definately yes....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by 8T1-7T9 BIONIC VETTE
Okay....Got the scoop from the mech after showing him the drawing.
It's the bolts at the end of frame where they connect to E-cross member in the drawings.
It's these four bolts that are rusted out and missing.....and the connecting plate are rusted.
It's the bolts at the end of frame where they connect to E-cross member in the drawings.
It's these four bolts that are rusted out and missing.....and the connecting plate are rusted.
$8000 for that ???? Pay me $4000 and I'll fly over and fix it for you
You can reach up there from under the car, shouldn't be a problem at all..... I wouldn't like to weld that close to the tank but if it's drained and filled with water..... forget about the bolts, just weld the crossmember to the frame and be done....
Le Mans Master
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From: Brazos TX
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If it's the bolts at the end of the frame you can just remove the rear bumper cover and gas tank to gain access to that. I don't think the body needs to be removed.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: North NJ
Originally Posted by 8T1-7T9 BIONIC VETTE
Okay....Got the scoop from the mech after showing him the drawing.
It's the bolts at the end of frame where they connect to E-cross member in the drawings.
It's these four bolts that are rusted out and missing.....and the connecting plate are rusted.
It's the bolts at the end of frame where they connect to E-cross member in the drawings.
It's these four bolts that are rusted out and missing.....and the connecting plate are rusted.
