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I just installed new rubber trailing arm bushings using the commercially available tool for the job that I borrowed from a friend. His first comment was that this tool doesn't work very well! It is in many of the catalogs but the problem with this tool is the large bull nosed rod you are supposed to be able to flare the insert with. The bull nose is WAY to big to start a flare and I really like GTR1999s home made tool but I didn't have any taps that large to readily make one. What ended up working fantastic to start the flaring process was an old air chisel shank. The end of the shank that inserts into the gun has a very nice smooth tapered end. I cut the chisel portion off and shortened the gun end so that it would not bottom out against the clamping tool when inserted into the bushing. With the bushings clamped up in the tool, A few taps with a 5 pound hammer and the job was nearly finished. I then used the large bull nosed rod that comes with the tool and a shop press to finish the job.
I also made my own trailing arm bushing staking tool, and it worked really well.
The problem that I had was with the aftermarket bushings. Unless you get every part from the same vendor, the staking tube may not be long enough to allow you to stake the washers successfully. I found this out the hard way, since I had to remove a tube I had already staked because....drum roll please...... .....I forgot to put in the washers (**@#$%$%^%).... So I drilled out the new tube, and bought a replacement from ZIP. Alas, it wasn't the same length as the one from Corvette Central. I was able to barely stake the bushing properly.
I have a homemade one and will look for pictures but it is basically 2 plates that clamp the bushing tight. I then use a BALL pean hammer, the round end, put it against the bushing and hit it with another hammer.
A ball pean hammer fit nicely.
I will look for pictures
You hold one end of the tool in the vise, put the trailing arm between the 2 arms and tighten the bolts which compresses the rubber busing and the sleeve sticks out the top through the hole in the upper plate.
This locks the bushing down tight and gives a clean shot at staking the bushing. Place a ball peen hammer over the end of the tube and give it a good hit with a hammer. This flares the tube over staking it tight.
Remove the homemade tool and the bushing doesn't move. It is staked tight
I found this out the hard way, since I had to remove a tube I had already staked because....drum roll please...... .....I forgot to put in the washers (**@#$%$%^%)
Umm, I put the washer in upside down the first time and had to drill out the tube and put it back in the right way. Then I discovered that the trailing arm was bent, so THAT tube was drilled out and the bushing moved to the replacement TA after it had been cleaned and painted and yet another tube was ordered. :o
Scott,
I think you have a press? Make the plates to hold the bushing tight and flat. I think you also have access to a lathe? If so make a rod to slide in the plate on center like my plate. turn a 45* flare seat on the rod and use the press to make the flare. Watch the aftermarket sleeves tend to crack at the flare edge. A small crack is ok but if it's long you'll have to start over.
The Bullnose tools are BS tools. You must be a tile man too, as you konw the terminology. I've done many ceramic walls and floors in the past.
Thanks Gary, I do plan on making a decent tool when I have some spare time like AFTER I get these two frame offs finished! You know I need to make that high school graduation date for his car I do have a nice lathe and a press and I keep shopping for a decent Bridgeport but most I've seen aren't worth buying. No tile guy here, but like you, I have had my share of remodeling bathrooms...haha. Gary, I'm currently working at Boeing supporting 747 and 777 flight control systems.