Intake gaskets....need recommendations
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Intake gaskets....need recommendations
Appears that my intake is not sealed and I am sucking oil from the lifter valley. So on Thanksgiving I plan on fixing this. Was wondering if just normal FelPro gaskets and RTV around each port will work or do I need to get one of those "Performance" gaskets and RTV around each port???
Background:
I had the block decked, heads shaved and had to have the intake shaved in order to get intake down onto the block and sealed at the ends. I pulled all the plugs out to find a coating of oil on every plug...both ends were worse than the middle ones.
More Background info:
Stock intake manifold. Not using the rubber gaskets on the ends, just an RTV bead. Torqued the intake to spec values following sequence in book. Also re-torqued bolts after couple of hundred miles or so. Replaced stock heads with set of 882 ones and had bronze value guides installed, 2.02/1.6 valves, guides.
Thanks,
LannyL81
Background:
I had the block decked, heads shaved and had to have the intake shaved in order to get intake down onto the block and sealed at the ends. I pulled all the plugs out to find a coating of oil on every plug...both ends were worse than the middle ones.
More Background info:
Stock intake manifold. Not using the rubber gaskets on the ends, just an RTV bead. Torqued the intake to spec values following sequence in book. Also re-torqued bolts after couple of hundred miles or so. Replaced stock heads with set of 882 ones and had bronze value guides installed, 2.02/1.6 valves, guides.
Thanks,
LannyL81
Last edited by LannyL81; Nov 17, 2006 at 09:08 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,359
Likes: 428
From: Seattle Area WA
Is the intake hitting the block at the ends. I had this problem when a shop got carried away with their milling and I never could get a good seal with the heads after that. You may need a thicker gasket to obtain a good seal. I would try Napa and check out their Victor Reinz Hi Perf intake set.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 10,560
Likes: 439
From: Wellington, FL
St. Jude Donor '11 thru '25
This may sound silly, but be sure to torque the bolts and in the proper sequence. I had a Vette mechanic tell me once that he never used a torque wrench on intakes-just did it by feel. One he had done was a '67 that I bought that was sucking oil. I ran a torque wrench around the intake and that was the end of the problem.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,716
Likes: 4
From: New Baden Illinois
I cannot currently find it on Edelbrock's site, but I recall reading something about Edelbrock recommending the performance gasket or the Mr. Gasket "Ultra Seal" for their aluminum intakes.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by dgruenke
I cannot currently find it on Edelbrock's site, but I recall reading something about Edelbrock recommending the performance gasket or the Mr. Gasket "Ultra Seal" for their aluminum intakes.
Aluminum Intakes require a "Low crush" gasket @ about 25-30 ft LBS torque (in the proper sequence) and no end gaskets.... use 1/4" bead of RTV instead (be sure to run the silicone up over the gaskets about a 1/2 inch or so as well) and be sure to use a light coat of RTV around the water jacket ports on the intake side of the gasket as well.
I always chase the bolt holes in the heads with a bottom tap to ensure the torque is correct.
It's best to let the RTV set up for about 30 minutes before mounting the intake.
Of course I diddnt see where LannyL81 mentioned that he had an Aluminum intake.....
Last edited by Bob Onit; Nov 17, 2006 at 08:44 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 91
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
oops
I forgot to mention
There are a 2 or 4 (I dont remember) pushrods that the bottom tap can come in contact with as the tap is longer than the bolts so be careful
If you run the tap in too far it can hit the pushrod and possibly bend it.
The good thing is that you can see which ones can be effected if you watch closely when you chase the threads.
I forgot to mention
There are a 2 or 4 (I dont remember) pushrods that the bottom tap can come in contact with as the tap is longer than the bolts so be careful
If you run the tap in too far it can hit the pushrod and possibly bend it.
The good thing is that you can see which ones can be effected if you watch closely when you chase the threads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
when I redid the motor in my '78 (L82) last spring I simply went to the local Chevy dealer and picked up the stock intake manifold gaskets from the parts dept.
I do not use the rubber end gaskets but use RTV instead on the front and rear block rails, make sure I get plenty in the corners and also as a double precoustion add a bead of the RTV around the outside water jacket ports.
No problems or leaks whatsoever.
I personally see no need to spend additionnal money on "high performance" fancy-dancy gaskets when the basic stock ones work just fine and are typically less money anyway.
same on valve cover gaskets - I tried a set of the expensive FelPro rubber gaskets with the metal insert in them and both sides leaked like a sieve! changed them out for the basic and inexpensive cork gaskets and not a single drop of oil leaks out since than.
Other people may have different experiences but this is mine.
I do not use the rubber end gaskets but use RTV instead on the front and rear block rails, make sure I get plenty in the corners and also as a double precoustion add a bead of the RTV around the outside water jacket ports.
No problems or leaks whatsoever.
I personally see no need to spend additionnal money on "high performance" fancy-dancy gaskets when the basic stock ones work just fine and are typically less money anyway.
same on valve cover gaskets - I tried a set of the expensive FelPro rubber gaskets with the metal insert in them and both sides leaked like a sieve! changed them out for the basic and inexpensive cork gaskets and not a single drop of oil leaks out since than.
Other people may have different experiences but this is mine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by BarryK
when I redid the motor in my '78 (L82) last spring I simply went to the local Chevy dealer and picked up the stock intake manifold gaskets from the parts dept.
I do not use the rubber end gaskets but use RTV instead on the front and rear block rails, make sure I get plenty in the corners and also as a double precoustion add a bead of the RTV around the outside water jacket ports.
No problems or leaks whatsoever.
I personally see no need to spend additionnal money on "high performance" fancy-dancy gaskets when the basic stock ones work just fine and are typically less money anyway.
I do not use the rubber end gaskets but use RTV instead on the front and rear block rails, make sure I get plenty in the corners and also as a double precoustion add a bead of the RTV around the outside water jacket ports.
No problems or leaks whatsoever.
I personally see no need to spend additionnal money on "high performance" fancy-dancy gaskets when the basic stock ones work just fine and are typically less money anyway.
I believe your 1978 L-82 came stock with an aluminum intake so it would be a low crush gasket you got from GM
Nothing fancy, just correct.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
My stock intake is also alumimun. Sounds like I will be find with a set of the FelPro gaskets. Am I going to be okay with putting a bead of RTV around each intake port, both sides of the gasket? I will of course put a bead at both ends around the water ports and also the block to intake area.
LannyL81
LannyL81
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: IL
http://www.21cgt.com/FMWebCatalog/default.htm
Here's a site to help match a gasket (head, intake, etc) to your applications. In this case, with your machinine work, you may have to search based on port diamensions and the gasket thickness needed.
Here's a site to help match a gasket (head, intake, etc) to your applications. In this case, with your machinine work, you may have to search based on port diamensions and the gasket thickness needed.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,323
Likes: 142
From: Green Valley Arizona
Originally Posted by GasketDude
http://www.21cgt.com/FMWebCatalog/default.htm
Here's a site to help match a gasket (head, intake, etc) to your applications. In this case, with your machinine work, you may have to search based on port diamensions and the gasket thickness needed.
Here's a site to help match a gasket (head, intake, etc) to your applications. In this case, with your machinine work, you may have to search based on port diamensions and the gasket thickness needed.
I checked out the site and it came back with gasket set 1204 which has the crossover blocked. But since my car has an EGR Valve, I do not think this is going to work and I should just get a set with the metal reducers in them....what do you say?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: IL
Sorry, busy haven't check here for awhile. I'd use #1256 for your application, has crossover restriction at center.
What did you find with intake milling? Look at old gasket to verify the entire port is loaded when torqued down. Do you see the top with the same imprint as the bottom? If not the milling angle maybe wrong, there is a chart (machineshop has) that explains how much should be removed from intake when heads are milled - etc.
What did you find with intake milling? Look at old gasket to verify the entire port is loaded when torqued down. Do you see the top with the same imprint as the bottom? If not the milling angle maybe wrong, there is a chart (machineshop has) that explains how much should be removed from intake when heads are milled - etc.