do we need another "how to build an engine" thread?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Step 1: Find a top notch machine shop that uses state of the art equipment (CNC machining centers, Sunnen hones, Serdi seat and guide machines) and have them do the machine work. There are a lot of very good parts to put in engines but there is absolutely no substitute for spot-on machine work. I assemble all my own but have everything machined at the shop I trust. They can also check all your clearances and sell you the correct bearings, etc. so you don't have to wonder or worry if they're right.
Step 2. REAEARCH, plan and build it as big and powerful as you can or you'll wish you had.
Other than that, there are a lot of resources on the web as well as in print that go into detail about assembly.
Step 2. REAEARCH, plan and build it as big and powerful as you can or you'll wish you had.
Other than that, there are a lot of resources on the web as well as in print that go into detail about assembly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,135
Likes: 2
From: Dayton Oh
My vote is affirmative. Not every rebuild is the same. Some times there are issues encountered and how to get around them can benefit others. Most text books assume nothing out of the ordinary happens and everyone knows that stuff happens most of the time in real life.
Thread Starter
Abby Normal
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 53,456
Likes: 92
From: Press "2" for English
thanks for the input, guys. i have already started my photo documentation. i was hoping to put the bottom end back together tomorrow but it looks like there is a problem at the machine shop getting the crank to balance out. looks like the brand new flywheel i got from jegs is out of whack and will have to be returned/replaced. that's going to slow things down a bit.
anyway, this is going to be a 'by-the-book' type rebuild as far as assembly but i've already spent a considerable amount of time on the little things that often times get overlooked or are just too obscure for the average joe.
i'm still shooting for start-up next weekend. we will just have to see.
anyway, this is going to be a 'by-the-book' type rebuild as far as assembly but i've already spent a considerable amount of time on the little things that often times get overlooked or are just too obscure for the average joe.
i'm still shooting for start-up next weekend. we will just have to see.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,499
Likes: 1,508
From: Little Rock AR
I want a write in ballot here - how about a "sticky" for engine building tips. There are some things that the beginners take for granted that you do not want to learn about the hard way. Save some retyping every time this comes up. I would use it. 
-Mark.
-Mark.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
Originally Posted by turtlevette
why do you have to balance the crank?
Some times Turtle you kill me lol. They can not just jump up and balance the crank they first have to balance the pistons and the rods both big end and small end. Then you weight all of the components to get a bob weight of which you would add to the journals of the crank to balance it. Then you put on the harmonic balancer and do that and then the flywheel then if it is a standard gear box you would add the hat or as most call the pressure plate and balance everything as an assembly. Whewwwwwwwwwwwwwwww. That way the motor will be smooooooooooooooooooooooth.
I think it would be a great idea to have a build thread.
Last edited by SHAKERATTLEROLL; Dec 9, 2006 at 01:22 AM.
Thread Starter
Abby Normal
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 53,456
Likes: 92
From: Press "2" for English
Originally Posted by turtlevette
why do you have to balance the crank?
looks like i'll be getting the crank this weekend afterall so i should have the bottom end done this weekend, short of the cam (which hasn't shown up yet). either way, i should still be on for installation/start-up next weekend.
wish me luck!
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by bence13_33
I always like to read about other people's build-ups. Everyone usually has a different thought process and most of the time you can learn something new, I'm all about learning new things.
I would love to read about your buildup and see pictures. If you take the time to do it I would read it. I too am always looking for something I might overlook in my rebuilds.
I too am in the middle of a build up and I agree the ford blue has to go. I put the red pan on this week and it really looks sick beside the blue.
Last edited by norvalwilhelm; Dec 10, 2006 at 08:30 AM.
Thread Starter
Abby Normal
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 53,456
Likes: 92
From: Press "2" for English
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
glyptal...and on the main webs also....nice 
but you forgot the fuel pump area 
..oh and...ford blue?
but you forgot the fuel pump area ..oh and...ford blue?BTW, it didn't take as long as i suspected for people to assume it's ford blue. that's actually PONTIAC blue. i chose it for several reasons. when i do the full thread, i'll explain my choice.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
i've never balanced an engine. You just put new pistons on and put it together. I don't think a fine tune balance is worth the money for the kind of engines we build.
The glyptal has always bugged me. I just don't see how you get the adhesion. I worry the stuff will bubble up flake off and make a real mess out of the oiling system.
You haven't told us too much. Do you have a stroker crank?
The glyptal has always bugged me. I just don't see how you get the adhesion. I worry the stuff will bubble up flake off and make a real mess out of the oiling system.
You haven't told us too much. Do you have a stroker crank?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
The glyptal will not come off, if you are worried, just pull the intake off your engine and poke your finger around in the rear drain hole (next to distr. hole)..you'll find some nice surprises there. The glyptal will not bubble and flake, ti's chemically resistant and thermal resistant to anything the engine will theow at it...it's seriously good stuff. I've used it on engine blocks, heads, valve covers, differential cases and lids..and so on. I've never had it come off, not one flake