with vacuum IMHO
head lights problem
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: floral city fl
head lights problem
hey need some help. head lights on my 77 come up verrrry slowly and not together. right one came up first then left one came up. right one went down but left one now stays up. is it vacume or hinge problems. any help would be nice.
thanks scott
thanks scott
Pro
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 599
Likes: 16
From: vista CA
Probably an acutator vacuum leak. You can get seal kits from various vendors for ~ $15, remove acutator and replace seal & boot. I have done this a couple of times - a lot less expensive than replacing actuator.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by martinsw
Probably an acutator vacuum leak. You can get seal kits from various vendors for ~ $15, remove acutator and replace seal & boot. I have done this a couple of times - a lot less expensive than replacing actuator.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,991
Likes: 3
From: Piscataway NJ
Just went through this on my 77. All the linkage and side door bearings were very stiff. Took everything apart, cleaned and put new grease on the linkage and bearings. Now they are ok for another 30 yrs.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Elmer NJ
just went thru this myself, checked everything out and found a few problems, but the big one was the vacuum relays. checked both actuators, and checked fine on vacuum pump, but the relay failed. they worked, but no longer hold vacuum
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by saudivette
Man you hate vacuum. Hydraulic power brake booster, electric headlight assemblies...what's next? A new non-vacuum distributor?
Make sure you tell me how the install goes for those electric lights. I have my own flush mount plan, but if that fails or falls through I'll be going electric too.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Man you hate vacuum. Hydraulic power brake booster, electric headlight assemblies...what's next? A new non-vacuum distributor?
Make sure you tell me how the install goes for those electric lights. I have my own flush mount plan, but if that fails or falls through I'll be going electric too.
Make sure you tell me how the install goes for those electric lights. I have my own flush mount plan, but if that fails or falls through I'll be going electric too.
100 lbs of relays, actuators, reservoirs and check valves and what must be close to 200 feet of rubber hose all to do the job of 2 electric motors 
I scoured the forum for what to check/how to fix when my headlights didn't work properly and it seemed that I would find the problem, fix it, the headlights would be marginally better for a while then die again and something ELSE would need to be replaced
I've already installed the motors and they work great. I had a bit of grief with the right side headlight not coming up every time but that ended being the door binding. Fixed that and now my headlights rocket up and down every single time
It's a really simple mod Matt and you could easily do it in a day. Unless you want NCRS accuracy or you just love being under the hood chasing vacuum leaks, Mcspeed's mod is the way to go, IMHO.
When you get right down to it, vacuum sucks!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by saudivette
It's a really simple mod Matt and you could easily do it in a day. Unless you want NCRS accuracy or you just love being under the hood chasing vacuum leaks, Mcspeed's mod is the way to go, IMHO.
When you get right down to it, vacuum sucks!
When you get right down to it, vacuum sucks!
Thanks for the tips. I know they are my backup plan. I'm working on a flush mount system similar to the L88 style, only the covers will be molded to house a pair of 4" bulbs. Should look pretty good if I ever can get to doing the glass work.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,986
Likes: 21
From: Columbus MN
Originally Posted by saudivette
I've had electric Killer Lights and NO vacuum anything up front on my '80 for 3 years. I'm glad I didn't replace all the vacuum parts. I saved money and ended up with a better system.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by MN80Vette
I've had electric Killer Lights and NO vacuum anything up front on my '80 for 3 years. I'm glad I didn't replace all the vacuum parts. I saved money and ended up with a better system.
So in a situation where you have hydraulic assisted brakes and electric pop-up headlights...you won't need the accumulator for sure. Just the dist, PCV, and maybe the heater core valve needs vacuum huh?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by MN80Vette
I've had electric Killer Lights and NO vacuum anything up front on my '80 for 3 years. I'm glad I didn't replace all the vacuum parts. I saved money and ended up with a better system.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 1
From: Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
I got all my parts reasonably cheap. If you buy everything new from GMpartsdirect, I think it will set you back $500 - $600. I got the C4 headlight switch from Ecklers, the C4 headlight module (with harness ends and plugs that I re-used) from eBay, the 2 x Firebird headlight motors from eBay, the headlight motor pigtails from GMpartsdirect and various coloured wire and inline fuses locally. I think I got away with it for around $300, including buying the bracket kit from Chris.
I installed everything myself. I spent a few hours making the harness (double checking it was all correct, then wrapping it like a factory item) and several hours over both days of a weekend to install it all. You could do it all in a full day...
I installed everything myself. I spent a few hours making the harness (double checking it was all correct, then wrapping it like a factory item) and several hours over both days of a weekend to install it all. You could do it all in a full day...
Last edited by saudivette; Dec 12, 2006 at 01:24 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
I got all my parts reasonably cheap. If you buy everything new from GMpartsdirect, I think it will set you back $500 - $600. I got the C4 headlight switch from Ecklers, the C4 headlight module (with harness ends and plugs that I re-used) from eBay, the 2 x Firebird headlight motors from eBay, the headlight motor pigtails from GMpartsdirect and various coloured wire and inline fuses locally. I think I got away with it for around $300, including buying the bracket kit from Chris.
I installed everything myself. I spent a few hours making the harness (double checking it was all correct, then wrapping it like a factory item) and several hours over both days of a weekend to install it all. You could do it all in a full day...
I installed everything myself. I spent a few hours making the harness (double checking it was all correct, then wrapping it like a factory item) and several hours over both days of a weekend to install it all. You could do it all in a full day...
Hey Wayne I sent you a PM for part numbers and such. Thanks so much.
