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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 07:19 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Oh nice..just ordered some shims and stuff from him...and I think the package is already underway drats...should have ordered the solid spacer also. Maybe I can quickly borrow a buddies lathe and whip one up.....

BTW, do you machine them to spec? I'll just machine one a little shorter than the crush sleeve and shim it up.
No don't shim to length. Leave just a little longer then the old crush sleeve you take out and fine tune later. I do find that the old removed length of the crush sleeve is almost right on.
No I don't machine to specs. I turn it so it rest nicely on the pressed on bearing only touching the inner race and a slide fit over the pinion at this point and narrow it down so again it rides only on the inner part of the outer bearing. There is set from a larger id to a small id and the same with the outer od.
Use the bearings for dimensions and a old crush sleeve for length..
I never buy them, just whip them up using those for dimensions.
I am guessing in the $40 range from Gary, but only guessing.
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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?? I'm confused here, you make the solid spacer too long? Then you can never fine tune it...only if it's short you can shim it up. How do you get it to the final length? You don't machine it to specs..so then how is it done???
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Old Dec 17, 2006 | 07:54 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
?? I'm confused here, you make the solid spacer too long? Then you can never fine tune it...only if it's short you can shim it up. How do you get it to the final length? You don't machine it to specs..so then how is it done???

Marck my spacers are too long. I install the pinion in the housing with a too long spacer. I use the impact to tighten the pinion nut. I then put a dial indicator on the end of the pinion and check free play between the bearings, remember the spacer is too long. Lets say the dial indicator reads .015 free play. I then remove the spacer, put it back in the lathe and turn about .012 to .014 off the end. Again reinstall the spacer and check end play. You should have only .001 to .003
Once agian if the dial indicator reads this amount put the spacer back in the lathe and remove this free play.
This time the spacer upon reinstalling should have no end play and a slight drag on the bearing,
I do not use shims but keep reducing the length of the spacer until it gives the right drag on the bearings.
After this I forget about the spacer and move to the carrier for beloading the bearings without the pinion in place.
You have dialed in the spacer and even if you change the spacer under the pressed on bearing the spacer length doesn't change nor the preload.

This only take a few minutes of fiddling if you have a lathe sitting beside you and a good impact for tightening and loosening the pinion nut
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 06:35 AM
  #24  
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so you do turn to spec, that's what I asked and you said no. Must be miscommunication...that's exactly what I meant, machine it too long, measure play, trim it down to spec and reinstall and maybe shim it up to get it dead on.

I cna't do that, I'll have to machine it a tad short and shim up the rest, the lathe is not where the rest of the car is
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 07:52 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
so you do turn to spec, that's what I asked and you said no. Must be miscommunication...that's exactly what I meant, machine it too long, measure play, trim it down to spec and reinstall and maybe shim it up to get it dead on.

I cna't do that, I'll have to machine it a tad short and shim up the rest, the lathe is not where the rest of the car is
Sorry Marck for the confusion. When I make these things I always make them too long and then fine tune on the setup. I really wouldn't like to add shims for tuning. A thin shim would bother me. I have found that if you have say .009 free play that by shortening the spacer this amount gives you the correct preload.
If the lathe is not where the car is take the housing and pinion to the lathe and do it right there.
You are NOT setting gear tooth pattern. You are just setting the distance between the bearings and that doesn't change with pinion shimming.



A word of caution. My son is very talented at setting send plays and he taught me that when you check bearings like this you have to seat the bearing, align the rollers. He pushes down on a bearing and rocks it back and forth 50 times and usually picks up .004 extra in free play that you never got when just installing the bearing, turning it a few times and then taking a reading. Rock the bearings back and forth to seat them.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 07:55 AM
  #26  
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Norval has it down pretty good. I have them in kit form with shims. Same procedure basically. Measure the old one add .020 shim so it is too long- you don't want to start off too tight. Then assemble and torque the old nut to 100 ft/lbs check rotating torque. I always go by my torque wrench- too **** I guess!!LOL
Since they are all different I final finish it on the surface grinder. I can get them to dial in to the 15-18 in/lb range with new bearings. I just used on the diff I put in my car.
Marck, your order went out almost a week ago it should be close to you?
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 08:38 AM
  #27  
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Gary I got lucky and found a length of chrome moly heavy walled tubing that has almost the right id and od. A slight cleanup and I have my spacer.
I do use the dial indictor to check end play and find when the end play is zero the bearing preload feels good.
It takes very little time to whip these spacer up
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 09:03 AM
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Gary, I did indeed get the package today thanks

Norval, do you know the ID/OD of the required thick wall pipe??
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 09:07 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Gary, I did indeed get the package today thanks

Norval, do you know the ID/OD of the required thick wall pipe??
Marck I have a piece of the tubing in my hand right now. It is 30 mm id and 50.7 od.
This needs a little cleaning up but is close. Alot easier then starting with solid material.
For those in inches. 1.160 ID and 2.0 od
While chrome moly is NOT required I had a number of lengths sitting around.
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 09:50 AM
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hummm..gotta see if I can get a section of that pipe...will see.. 10mm wall thickness..that's a sturdy pipe indeed
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 09:56 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
hummm..gotta see if I can get a section of that pipe...will see.. 10mm wall thickness..that's a sturdy pipe indeed
you can start with a solid 2 inch diameter piece and run a 1 inch drill bit through it. I just got lucky and found this material and it only saves me drilling the 1 inch hole. that is really not a big deal on a lathe but my son and I seem to make a couple of these each year
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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Norval, you're not getting my shimming point, I don't mean shim the pinion depth, I mean shim the brearing peload just like you do with the rear wheel bearings
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 12:56 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Norval, you're not getting my shimming point, I don't mean shim the pinion depth, I mean shim the brearing peload just like you do with the rear wheel bearings
I am getting your point. I know you want to shim the bearing preload but there are two shims in the pinion then. One sets the pinion depth, that is NOT affected by the crush sleeve or spacer. So if the spacer is fine tuned and you decide to press the pinion bearing off and change the shim under the bearing you can still use the same spacer that you already spent the time getting right.
Marck we both know what we are trying to say. I just like doing it with the solid spacer instead of dealing with shims.
Both will work fine
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Old Dec 18, 2006 | 01:01 PM
  #34  
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you can still do the same using shims, just stack the used shims back up there and it'll be fine, the shims + spacer still determine the min. distance between the 2 bearing races and with that the bearing preload. I'm gonna do it with shims, much easier for me.
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