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The '80 I bought 5 years ago spend most of its life in Arizona. That's why I bought this particular one - dry climate, less rust. When I started fixing it up, I literally found dead scorpions in a couple nooks and crannies. It arrived here in Minnesota in mid-December, to the near-zero degree temp probably killed them.
All the rust I found so far has been surface rust, including the areas of the birdcage I've seen. Although I was ripped off by Michael "Monthief", I am fortunate to have a solid frame.
I have read about and seen some pretty badly rusted frames on the CF. We have some radical 24-hour temperature swings in Minnesota that cause condensation on things and in places without exposure to ambient air temps - a perfect environment for rust formation.
What do you recommend I do to prevent or at least minimize frame rust?
We have 2 kids still in college and a wedding coming up this summer, so I can't afford a body-off restoration and powdercoated frame. I'm interested in things I can do on a "whole" car.
Rust proofing a frame without dissassembly equates to re-building an engine without disassembly. The problem is, in your area the road salt/moisture is going to accumulate in areas you cannot even see without disassembly. In short, there is no shortcut.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The Vette frames rust from the inside-out from entrapped water/moisture/salt in certain areas. There's not much you can do from the outside accessible areas to prevent the rust.
Keep in mind that the cars that are really rusty are the ones that were used as daily drivers on salty roads and in the wet coastal climates. If you don't drive your Vette during adverse road conditions, you're not going to have any rust-out problems - at least not in your lifetime.
I have read about and seen some pretty badly rusted frames on the CF. We have some radical 24-hour temperature swings in Minnesota that cause condensation on things and in places without exposure to ambient air temps - a perfect environment for rust formation.
What do you recommend I do to prevent or at least minimize frame rust?
We have 2 kids still in college and a wedding coming up this summer, so I can't afford a body-off restoration and powder coated frame. I'm interested in things I can do on a "whole" car.
I live in the south and it's humid here also. I bought my car here and when I did the body-off , I found basically the same thing as you with respect to rust, just the surface variety. The best and ony real thing you can do is keep it garaged and out of the salt.
If your vette is living in the garage during bad weather you won't have problems. When you have dirt and road grime accumulating in areas such as the gussets in front of the kick-ups and moisture is added on a regular basis this is where the trouble comes from.
btw, POR15 and other coatings are very good for protection but you really can't apply any of them properly without removing the body to get access.
There are frame treatments that can be sprayed into the frame rails. There are companies that offer professional spraying or you can look at something like Eastwoods Heavy Duty Anti Rust. It's like a black wax that can be sprayed into the frame rails. I just did this to my frame off resto of my '81. Had the frame dipped and powdercoated, but then needed something inside the frame rails. I don't think this is a perfect solution but am finding that there isn't really a perfect solution out there. Some people put motor oil in their frames, some people try to POR the inside of the frame, etc. Just my 2 Cent.
The outside of the frame is another story. I agree with the other posters, without full access to the frame it will be difficult to apply anything.
Last edited by ShinodaVette; Dec 22, 2006 at 12:22 PM.
you can use a product such as this http://www.rustcheck.ca/ its an oil base product that soaks into all the cracks and crevices...gauranteed to stop/prevent rust.
Been in the snow belt my whole life...this stuff works
If your vette is living in the garage during bad weather you won't have problems. When you have dirt and road grime accumulating in areas such as the gussets in front of the kick-ups and moisture is added on a regular basis this is where the trouble comes from.
My Corvette has its own 4-post throne (a lift) in my insulated, detached, "man-cave" garage. I drive it in fair weather only. Approximately 1,318 drops of rain have fallen on it since I owned it. And I always wait for a month or two of spring rain to wash the salt off the roads before I take it out again.
It sounds like treating what I can until I have the discretionary funds for a body-off restoration is the best action to take for now.
you can use a product such as this http://www.rustcheck.ca/ its an oil base product that soaks into all the cracks and crevices...gauranteed to stop/prevent rust.
Been in the snow belt my whole life...this stuff works
That's the kind of stuff I was hoping to find - something that penetrates the cracks and holes, not just coats the visible surface. I'll check into it.
That's the kind of stuff I was hoping to find - something that penetrates the cracks and holes, not just coats the visible surface. I'll check into it.
Temporarily use.
WD40 (removes moisture and coats with oil.)
Liquid Wrench also.
From the sound of your garage I don't think you will have condensation problems or have to worry a lot about rust formation. You could always put a dehumidifier in the garage to help out but it probably isn't necessary.
Spraying old motor oil into the frame is a very cheap and easy, if messy treatment that has been used since the 1920's. You have to do it a couple of times a year since the oil eventually runs off the surface.
Another thing you could use is chain saw oil. It has paraffin in it to help stick to the chain and you can get it in 5-gal cans at places like Agway and Tractor Supply.
Another thing you could use is chain saw oil. It has paraffin in it to help stick to the chain and you can get it in 5-gal cans at places like Agway and Tractor Supply.
The thought of intentially putting oil on my car is not natural for me. Chain saw bar oil with paraffin makes sense. It's cheap too.
i used por-15 on the outside of the frame and a top coat of g m chassis black, when i did my body off restoration, the took the bare frame to a z bart dealer on a flatbed and had the inside frame rails rust proffed,,after the chassis was built and the body back on, i drove the car in to another z bart dealer and for 80 bucks he re shot the inside frame rails,,,the way i looked at it, the second guy would get any spots the first guy missed if any,,whith z bart you pay the first time ,i think it was 200 the first time,,,as long as you keep the origional paper work every time you go back for touch ups it 80 bucks---------------------------------
i drove the car in to another z bart dealer and for 80 bucks he re shot the inside frame rails
What is a z bart dealer? and where are they located?
MN80Vette, I called Rustcheck's home office in canada to see how I could get a hold of their stuff here in the states and they said they don't export to the US. I found this odd but I have been unable to find it anywhere. They said there are two garages in PA that you can take your car to and they will apply the rustcheck to the inside of your frame rails but they are not able to sell the product. I plan on using this product or one like it once I get the car on the road.