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Well I have all new brakes on my car. when I say new I mean 100% new from the rotors, calipers, lines and even the master cylinder and brake booster but once I got all the brakes together I bleed them and the brakes were just like they were with the old brakes. When I apply the pedal I wasn’t getting brakes till the pedal was almost to the floor. ok so I called my uncle a few weeks ago and explained to him what was going on and after 30 minutes on the phone with him he tell me to take the master cylinder off and adjust the rod fro the booster out a little further and keep doing that till the brakes feel like they are suppose to. well it worked so I call him back and this time he tells me to take it back off and install some aviation gasket sealant that way ever time as I apply the brake the rod doesn’t slowly back itself in and I loose my brakes again. I just wanted to share this with everyone. without the sealant on the rod I could turn it with little effort so I guess the more I hit the brake pedal the more it would turn itself in. my brakes have awesome feel to them now and it takes very little effort and the pedal travel is very short and doesn’t even come close to hitting the floor anymore. I will see about posting some pictures by the end of this week.
Last edited by LIQUIDDRAGON; Dec 27, 2006 at 02:20 PM.
Good tip. Make sure you didn't adjust the rod too long though. Take the cap off the master, push the brake pedal and release slowly. If the rod is the proper length you will see a little squirt in the master just before the pedal is up all the way. If you don't see the squirt, the master isn't opening the circuit and your brakes will drag.
Do this with engine off.
Some rags around the master is recommended for this test as fluid can squirt out of the master.
Good tip. Make sure you didn't adjust the rod too long though. Take the cap off the master, push the brake pedal and release slowly. If the rod is the proper length you will see a little squirt in the master just before the pedal is up all the way. If you don't see the squirt, the master isn't opening the circuit and your brakes will drag.
Do this with engine off.
Some rags around the master is recommended for this test as fluid can squirt out of the master.
This is extremely important. If the circuit is not vented at rest, if and when the trapped fluid expands, it will find a way out to relieve pressure. IE, blowing past caliper seals.
Have you already test drive the car ;Cause I did this too ,adjusted the rod to where I had good feel and this is on a manual brakes,then took it for a ride and the brakes started locking up by themselves with the more heat they got ,so I had to adjust the rod back. check that out
Good tip. Make sure you didn't adjust the rod too long though. Take the cap off the master, push the brake pedal and release slowly. If the rod is the proper length you will see a little squirt in the master just before the pedal is up all the way. If you don't see the squirt, the master isn't opening the circuit and your brakes will drag.
Do this with engine off.
Some rags around the master is recommended for this test as fluid can squirt out of the master.
Great Post... My 81 is doing the same thing. Too much travel in the pedal. Doesn't start braking until it a little under an inch from the floor, than braking is firm. Thanks I'll try adjusting the rod. But not to far.