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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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Default stroker - more questions

I had set my mind on a new block from Summit/Jegs, but there are not too many pistons available in std bore size and I learned that forged pistons require larger clearance so the new block would have to be final machined to fit the pistons anyways.... btw, a big THANKS to forum member jackson for all the helpful info

I found a stroker clearanced block on Ebay, 1 piece rms, 4bolt main, mech fuel pump and roller cam. honed and decked (.030" and 9.015").
The seller is "whiteperformance" - it's a machine shop / engine builder in east Tennesse, near Johnson City. They have a really nice website (whiteperformance.com) - has anybody bought from them ??
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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here's the "plan" :


1 piece rms block setup for roller cam and mech fuel pump, .030" over and decked to 9.010"

Eagle rotating assembly: forged crank 3.75 stroke, 5.7" H-beam rods and -16cc forged dished pistons

The pistons would be .010" in the hole, with a .035" head gasket the quench would be .045" and with -16cc dished pistons that should be close to 10:1CR --> I want to re-use my Edelbrock RPM heads (64cc) that I currently run on my 350

Cam: leaning towards Comp XR276HR12 (.503/.510" lift and 224/230 dur) LS at 112


Comments/ideas ?????
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 09:39 PM
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By the time you buy a block, crank, pistons, etc. you could probably by an assembled short block cheaper.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gyopp
By the time you buy a block, crank, pistons, etc. you could probably by an assembled short block cheaper.
I'll talk to them tomorrow to get an estimate for the assembled short block with the parts listed above.

I'll have to see if that cam would work, it's not a small base circle so it may not fit with the H-beam rods. Are I-beam rods narrower ???
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 09:58 PM
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I'm not sure about H-beam rods, but I know my I beams fit well with a comp roller that is NOT a small base circle.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 10:32 PM
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Make sure whatever block you get has not been final honed. You're machine shop will need to do the final honing with selected pistons in hand to match EATCH piston to its final cylinder. The final piston to cylinder clearances are critical and so each piston should be fitted to an individual cylinder. Hope this helps.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 10:42 PM
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another reason to buy the short block assembled.
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Old Jan 1, 2007 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MYBAD79
I'll talk to them tomorrow to get an estimate for the assembled short block with the parts listed above.

I'll have to see if that cam would work, it's not a small base circle so it may not fit with the H-beam rods. Are I-beam rods narrower ???
I-beam or H-beam doesn't matter, it's the big end of the rod that gets clearanced for the cam. Usually you get the H-beam that are stroker clearanced since that's what's included in the forged kits. The largest selection of kits is usually in the stroker catalog anyway. If you are going this way why not ask them about a 396 kit? Doesn't cost any more for 13 extra cubes. Eagles' 396 kit clears std base circle cams, I don't have any info on the other companies products.
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 09:43 AM
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Just because you spot a mech fuel pump mount on block ... does NOT mean that mount is fully-functional. Verify that mount is COMPLETELY machined ... including fuel pump rod hole ... & ready to bolt on & run a mech pump. Frankly ... +$725 delivered seems a bit high ... I can do MUCH better locally. As suggested before, get a core vortec MOTOR locally & have the machinework done locally ... sell off the stuff you don't want ... keep all the bits you'll NEED to complete the roller setup. Suggest if you buy rods ... H or I ... whatever brand ... do go for 6" rods. Heck, I've got a very good used set of Manley Sportmaster 6" bushed I-beams w/ arp bolts ... 100% USA-made ... yours for $250 + ship ... email if serious.

-edit- if you've been getting steep local estimates ... shop around for local machinework

Last edited by jackson; Jan 2, 2007 at 09:48 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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I was leaning towards the shorter rods so that there's more room for the ring grooves between the pin hole and the top of the piston - I know 6" rods are going to be fine but it still leaves a bad taste.... a little paranoid I guess...

A 396 rotating assembly and 6" rods would leave only 1.0625" compression height for the pistons - is my math correct ?

A piston with 1.425" compression height seems to be a lot stronger

I'll have to see how much the assembled short block is and then decide..... the shop here in Orlando wanted $700 for machining my old block

Last edited by MYBAD79; Jan 2, 2007 at 10:33 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:29 AM
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The SRP pistons in the Eagle kit are spec'd to 1500HP. They should be strong enough. I wouldn't use hypers with 6" rods but the forged will be OK.
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MYBAD79
I was leaning towards the shorter rods so that there's more room for the ring grooves between the pin hole and the top of the piston - I know 6" rods are going to be fine but it still leaves a bad taste.... a little paranoid I guess...

A 396 rotating assembly and 6" rods would leave only 1.0625"
The short skirt light weight forged pistons are extremely strong. The pin is actually behind the oil ring. The only detriment to longevity is the 1/16th inch two top rings. They just ware out fast especially in longer stroke high piston feet per minute engines. The problem would even be compounded by a shorter rod length causing more side loading.

My 1/16th inch ring JE and Wiseco rings seem to start smoking and have increased oil useage not long after 10,000 miles. My 383 when it had to be rebuilt was over 10% leak down on all cylinders at near 20,000 miles. Compared to @2-3 % when new.

These are race motor pistons made to be rebuilt all the time. Strength is not the issue. It's just motors like my 3.750 and 4.00 stroke turning 7000+ rpm makes the rings go away. My Wiseco piston was able to smash a broken off intake valve and completely destroy the chamber. all it had was some big dings in the top. It just got replaced and the motor refreshed
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Well.... talked to the shop earlier today, the assembled short block incl. oil pump, oil pan gasket (Felpro 1 piece), double roller timing chain and cover and cam is $3000 plus shipping

machined block $600
Eagle forged rotating assembly $1750 (balanced)
oil pan gasket $50 (probably less)
timing chain set $50
oil pump $50
cam $300
lifters $130

If I am not too far off with my parts prices they're assembling for about $100

Now the camshaft selection:
crane HR2842S12IG (222/230 , .509"/.528" @.050" LS112)
comp XR276HR-12 (224/230 , .503"/.510" @.050" LS112)

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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 03:23 PM
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My original 383 build used this H-rollers "119841
HR-296-2S-12 IG" cousin in the solid roller version 232/240 The only real difference is the lash take up. So the no lash gets the 234/242 numbers.

I was a real TQ monster compared to a 355 ci. It was the best all around cam I ever used in a 383. Because of the expense of roller cams choose wisely so you don't have to buy another one soon.

Roller cams run much smoother than the equivalent solid cams of the same duration.

Anyway, how can you call your 79 BAD if it's just a mild motor?
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 03:35 PM
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I don't mind a little more cam but I want to make sure that I can still cruise at 2000rpm in overdrive....
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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i'm running a 236/242 hydraulic roller and can cruise just fine at 2000rpms
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MYBAD79
Well.... talked to the shop earlier today, the assembled short block incl. oil pump, oil pan gasket (Felpro 1 piece), double roller timing chain and cover and cam is $3000 plus shipping

machined block $600
Eagle forged rotating assembly $1750 (balanced)
oil pan gasket $50 (probably less)
timing chain set $50
oil pump $50
cam $300
lifters $130

If I am not too far off with my parts prices they're assembling for about $100

Now the camshaft selection:
crane HR2842S12IG (222/230 , .509"/.528" @.050" LS112)
comp XR276HR-12 (224/230 , .503"/.510" @.050" LS112)

For that kind of money ... you're already in the ballpark of brand new GMPP HT383 ...

short block ~$3200
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/514/...e-Assembly.htm

complete crate ~$3900 (buy this one & ebay its vortec heads, intake & cam)
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/...ate-Engine.htm
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To stroker - more questions

Old Jan 2, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jackson
For that kind of money ... you're already in the ballpark of brand new GMPP HT383 ...

short block ~$3200
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/514/...e-Assembly.htm

complete crate ~$3900 (buy this one & ebay its vortec heads, intake & cam)
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/...ate-Engine.htm
I saw that short block in Summit's catalog, incl cam and lifters it's $3700 and you can't upgrade to forged pistons

It's a lot of money and I'm second guessing my plan.... might just tell them to make it a 396 so at leats I get the most cubes for the money
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Redshark6974
i'm running a 236/242 hydraulic roller and can cruise just fine at 2000rpms
thanks - I'll adjust my 'plan' accordingly
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MYBAD79
I saw that short block in Summit's catalog, incl cam and lifters it's $3700 and you can't upgrade to forged pistons

It's a lot of money and I'm second guessing my plan.... might just tell them to make it a 396 so at leats I get the most cubes for the money
Frankly ... if you're not gonna shoot nitrous, no turbo, no supercharger amd not gonna race every weekend ... you don't need forged pistons ... your pocketbook. You can buy a GM crate motor at any local GM dealership. Whatever you do decide ... plan for whatever fuel it will require.
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